Well, enjoy the worms from the can you opened.
Anyway, my probably crazy oil rant:
The zinc thing seems important. As car makers have been "encouraged" to improve efficiency - use less fuel - their engine design goals have changed. Internal friction, using fuel without producing motive power, has been reduced a lot. So valvegear like what's in our engines with flat followers rubbing against a cam ... nope. Lots of frictional losses, that has to go. So basically all modern engines have roller cam followers with lots less friction so less power wasted. And since oil no longer needs the additives like zinc that stick to the cam and followers to help them not gall, additives that are not free, most available car oil today doesn't have them - or a lot less of them.
Some motorcycle specific oils have more zinc compounds because shim in bucket cam followers are still fairly common, using roller followers takes up a lot more room and increases the follower weight (the rev limit is directly related to valvegear weight) which would make the engine larger and less powerful due to the lowered rev limit. A typical R1 rider doesn't care about fuel economy much, and the government regulations focus on emissions and noise rather than efficiency.
What oil viscosity rating you should use depends on the temperature it's expected to run at. When these bikes were made, multigrade oils with really wide ranges were not available - there was no 10W50 oil in existence.
Multigrade oils are made with long chain molecules that stretch out as they heat up, that makes the oil "thicker". But these get smashed into smaller bits in an engine so the oil thins out after being in use. In the engine that takes a while because the bearings don't shear the molecules a lot and their oil film is decently thick even at high throttle. But our engines also use the oil in the wet clutch and transmission which does put lot of shear force and pressure on the oil in the clutch and at the gear faces, ripping the molecules apart. Zinc helps with the gears as well but can't eliminate the oil degradation.
Many of us use diesel oil, it's just normal oil with friction additives like zinc because diesel engines still need them. Or you can get zinc additives to put in car oils.
As to viscosity, the owners manuals usually have a recommendation something like SAE 30 for air temperatures below 20C/70F and SAE 40 above that (this info may be cast into the engine case by the dipstick/filler). The different viscosities are because an aircooled engine's running temperature varies relative to the the ambient air temperature, water cooled engines don't have that problem except in extremes.
I use a multigrade diesel oil that covers the recommended range, like 20W50 - the "thin" cold rating of 20wt is not going to cause trouble during the time the engine heats up. The 50wt hot viscosity is OK because parts of the air cooled engine will run hotter than anything in a water cooled engine ever will. And I change it fairly often, knowing the clutch and gears are messing with the high temperature viscosity. I also use synthetic oil. No brilliant arguments on why it's better, I've just found that my engine ran quieter and happier the first time I tried synthetic at least 30 years ago and decided to go with it from then on. I've had none of the problems that synthetics are supposed to cause, that doesn't mean I don't believe they exist.
But we all have oil opinions, some of us have oil opinions that must be defended vehemently.
Yes you can use the cheapest oil you can find, use the latest high efficiency car oil on the Walmart shelf, whatever - change it regularly and probably have no issues.
Some oil should be avoided because their anti-friction additives work too well: our wet clutches do need friction after all. And never use molybdenum ("Moly") oil additives unless you really want your clutch to slip until you flush it all out and replace the clutch friction discs - consider any oil additive that's black as taboo.
