Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 50239 times)

754 · « **Reply #150 on:** July 19, 2021, 06:16:01 PM »

I think they had reflectirs here.. i edited a post aways back , i got got caliper bolts, not sure if same as early , keepng an eye out for the to fork leg bolts.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #151 on:** July 19, 2021, 07:32:33 PM »

This bike came with a king/queen seat. I did not like it.
Today I took the cover and foam off. This was a Saddleman product. I’m thinking the pan may be an original pan, it had a label on the underside of the back area which the paint remover destroyed. I’ve posted some photos for the experts. If this is a Z1 pan I just may get foam and a cover for it after I get it stripped, the crack welded and I paint it. There is a catch and the hinges.

Stev-o · « **Reply #152 on:** July 20, 2021, 07:13:14 AM »

Hey Steve...the seat pan looks correct except for those rivets, not sure what those would be for?

MauiK3 · « **Reply #153 on:** July 20, 2021, 08:30:54 AM »

I could not tell what was there, one rivet has a rubber or soft material under it. I've never covered a seat but I think I'll need to learn how. I assume that after the pan is fixed up and painted some sort of glue attaches the foam to the pan. Then the cover is stretched over and caught on all the little barbs. The parts catalog does not show much detail on the seat itself.

Stev-o · « **Reply #154 on:** July 20, 2021, 08:40:19 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 20, 2021, 08:30:54 AM

I've never covered a seat but I think I'll need to learn how.

I've recovered a few with varying results. Key is getting a good cover, one 550 seat I did came out fantastic.

I'm sure you can handle it, your fingers may just be sore for a day or two!

Kelly E · « **Reply #155 on:** July 20, 2021, 09:13:01 AM »

I'll second the get a good seat cover idea. We've done a few seats now and cover quality makes a big difference. We did two identical seats at the same time, one with a high quality cover and the other with a buget cover. The quality cover was easier to get lined up correctly and installed.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #156 on:** July 20, 2021, 10:23:28 AM »

I see 124 mm between the screws center to center on the tank badge.

Steve-o, can you post a photo of the underside of your Z1 seat so I have some idea of what it's supposed to look like?
Thank you all

Stev-o · « **Reply #157 on:** July 20, 2021, 11:37:20 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 20, 2021, 10:23:28 AM

Steve-o, can you post a photo of the underside of your Z1 seat...

Here...

I'm sure you know, it's a re-pop, but a good one.

I sold the original one [poor cond] on ebay and shipped it to Japan.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #158 on:** July 20, 2021, 12:33:35 PM »

The seat base looks the same,from where I'm viewing the pics.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #159 on:** July 20, 2021, 02:10:01 PM »

Yes, that seat pan looks just like this one. Hard to say if I have an original but I’ll give it a go anyway. What does the prop rod actually bear against?

MauiK3 · « **Reply #160 on:** July 21, 2021, 02:26:26 PM »

The bottom edge of the seat pan seems pretty sharp, I hope the covers are tough in that area. There wasn’t any special cover over it.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #161 on:** July 21, 2021, 06:55:02 PM »

Today I started to clean some black parts up so I can begin to paint them with POR15. The Z1 seems to have more black parts where the K3 has more chrome parts. Also, it seems that Kawasaki Heavy Industries chose to make all these parts out of heavier gauge material. The tail light bracket alone could support the whole bike. It’s really a heavy duty bike.
Marsdens book says the frame should be gloss black which surprised me. I’d prefer more of a chassis black like the K3 but oh well, I guess I’ll go a little glossier.
No carb parts yet. I’m pretty anxious about hearing it run.
When I static set the points I felt like it was a bit more fussy than the K3 for some reason, maybe it was just my unfamiliarity. I’m wondering if Hondaman’s transistor unit would work on this bike, I don’t see why not but I’m not the expert. If the points are problematic I might consider upgraded ignition which I’ve never used. There are many to choose from. I’d be afraid of reliability which is why Hondaman’s is so cool.
I’ve located some NOS parts I need and I’m about to put in the first sizable order, this one will also take forever due to customs.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #162 on:** July 21, 2021, 07:10:08 PM »

If you're not worried about originality Steve buy a Dyna S and Dyna coils and leads, and if you're worried about it failing (and I've never had one fail in 40 years) throw your points plate and points cam under the seat. Re: the sharp edges on your seat, go to your local car parts plate and buy some thin door edge protector stripping and put it over the edge all around seat base, and you won't tear your seat cover. I replaced the seat cover on the Auto yesterday and the only place where the edge had gone thru the original cover was where the edge protector had somehow been pushed off.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #163 on:** July 21, 2021, 11:47:49 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on July 21, 2021, 07:10:08 PM

If you're not worried about originality Steve buy a Dyna S and Dyna coils and leads, and if you're worried about it failing (and I've never had one fail in 40 years) throw your points plate and points cam under the seat. Re: the sharp edges on your seat, go to your local car parts plate and buy some thin door edge protector stripping and put it over the edge all around seat base, and you won't tear your seat cover. I replaced the seat cover on the Auto yesterday and the only place where the edge had gone thru the original cover was where the edge protector had somehow been pushed off.

I 2nd that with the seat;edge protectors,bring your seat pan with you to the individual who sells it.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #164 on:** July 22, 2021, 10:53:41 PM »

Today I bought the POR 15 I need to start getting a the smaller black parts coated. Battery box, tool tray, helmet holder, a few other brackets, foot peg brackets, side stand and some other stuff. I’m doing it to remind myself how to handle the POR15 again before the frame gets coated. I got gloss black even though I prefer chassis black. Marsdens book says they are gloss, so be it.
I also learned that I can’t get the good old paint remover that removes your brain too. All they get here now is the low VOC stuff. It works but is slower, I’m not in a hurry.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #165 on:** July 23, 2021, 03:04:57 AM »

Hopefully the gloss black you got is UV stable, the rust paint intended as a converting preventive coating they originally made had to be top coated...
It doesn't fall apart or fail but it oxidizes and loses its gloss...

MauiK3 · « **Reply #166 on:** July 23, 2021, 08:32:51 AM »

That's correct, POR 15 needs a top coat when it's on exposed parts, I'm using their compatible top coat. It worked very well on the K3, it self levels nicely. I'm very impressed with how tough it is, very impact resistant while not being too brittle. I've had no problems with it so far.
In a former life I had a crew that used it to fix up a 2000 gallon water truck and it really stopped the rust and did not chip or peel, it weathered but in that case it didn't matter, top coat and beauty were not needed.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #167 on:** July 24, 2021, 02:47:20 PM »

Small kine work, started painting small parts, most of which aren’t really seen, paint is mostly for preservation. I think my carb parts are clearing customs. Taking a long time.
I managed to get them clean with a combination of paint remover, Simple Green, denatured alcohol and elbow grease.
Then I used the Metal Prep treatment POR 15 says to use.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #168 on:** July 24, 2021, 07:12:12 PM »

Good work mate. The POR-15 Metal Prep is watered down phosphoric acid.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #169 on:** July 25, 2021, 08:26:03 AM »

Good to know.
Where does one look for phosphoric acid?

Hoosier Honda · « **Reply #170 on:** July 25, 2021, 04:08:40 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 25, 2021, 08:26:03 AM

Good to know.
Where does one look for phosphoric acid?

If you have a Home depot there, they carry it, probably most hardware stores. Here is a pic of Home depot brand

Alan F. · « **Reply #171 on:** July 25, 2021, 05:30:06 PM »

Sweet Thanx!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-Gal-Concrete-Etch-Metal-Prep-Rust-Inhibitor-GKPA30220/100406369?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D24-G-D24-24_16_EXTERIOR_PAINT-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Exterior_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D24-G-D24-24_16_EXTERIOR_PAINT-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Exterior_LIA-71700000075826640-58700006498654201-92700058683660033&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVXSgHsGCrdRkNWfzKHZz8gghARvbpvMUDaff-vuH6V_Yplv11WgLEkaAqXUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Or:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klean-Strip-Concrete-and-Metal-Prep-1-GAL/1001456348?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-133-_-thinnersandsolvents-_-1001456348-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVXrCwrxDy76dCUzgY01ZWIVkcAjdddM5HEuoAZ3vrS-Ohz86FcP2KwaArpnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Or:
https://www.lifeandhome.com/products/klean-strip-gkpa30220-phosphoric-prep-etch-1-gallon?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVU4cPY_HAOZ_496RAT3KfnmQwa_fb4Ub0JH0yswU_EWLnSFolPHCVcaAmemEALw_wcB (ships to HI if needed)

MauiK3 · « **Reply #172 on:** July 25, 2021, 06:57:46 PM »

Here’s a question for the Z1 gurus.
Marsdens book makes several mentions of black cable ties that affix electrical leads to the handlebar and frame areas. I have not found any reference to them in the parts book. Honda has their plastic coated alloy wraps that look nice. What did Kawasaki use?
I don’t really want to use zip ties, that can’t be it, but maybe it is. One photo does look like a zip tie. Ugly.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #173 on:** July 25, 2021, 08:22:35 PM »

The Kawi ones work more like a belt...I will try and remember to get some pics

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #174 on:** July 25, 2021, 08:25:42 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 25, 2021, 06:57:46 PM

Here’s a question for the Z1 gurus.
Marsdens book makes several mentions of black cable ties that affix electrical leads to the handlebar and frame areas. I have not found any reference to them in the parts book. Honda has their plastic coated alloy wraps that look nice. What did Kawasaki use?
I don’t really want to use zip ties, that can’t be it, but maybe it is. One photo does look like a zip tie. Ugly.

Probably zip ties mate, I'm building my Z1B from parts so never had a complete bike to start with, but I bought a heap of hardware from Brad on Ebay and there were some wider re-usable zip ties in the box that I presume, but don't know, were OEM.

Re: the phosphoric acid, most hardware stores will sell you a watered down version, like the POR-15 stuff. If you have a farm supply store nearby, go and buy some from there, as it's usually 100% phosphoric, not 10 or 20% like the hardware store variety. Phosphoric acid is food grade, and used by farmers to clean stainless steel milking equipment.

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Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 50239 times)