Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 50269 times)

grcamna2 · « **Reply #175 on:** July 25, 2021, 10:35:11 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on July 25, 2021, 08:22:35 PM

The Kawi ones work more like a belt...I will try and remember to get some pics

Like 80's Honda's?

ken65 · « **Reply #176 on:** July 25, 2021, 10:52:58 PM »

I got these for my 74 H1.
# 92072-031 & # 92072-032. Available from partzilla about 4 bucks each.Cant say if there the ones for your bike though but are gen kwacka. I think the longer one was for the harness, not sure.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #177 on:** July 26, 2021, 01:41:56 AM »

Quote from: ken65 on July 25, 2021, 10:52:58 PM

I got these for my 74 H1.
# 92072-031 & # 92072-032. Available from partzilla about 4 bucks each.Cant say if there the ones for your bike though but are gen kwacka. I think the longer one was for the harness, not sure.

Yep, Ken's on the money, and surprisingly, there are still stocks of a part for a 1972 Z1 available! (because they used the same bands on pretty much every Kawasaki built since........)

Partzilla Z1 bands by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

ken65 · « **Reply #178 on:** July 26, 2021, 02:22:04 AM »

cheers Terrance.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #179 on:** July 26, 2021, 08:14:58 AM »

I missed that in the parts catalog!!
I'm going to look for some.
Many thanks, this is the greatest forum.
And it sure beats reading the news!!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #180 on:** July 26, 2021, 02:47:52 PM »

I was poking around today and found the lower rear engine mount bolt did not have a nut on it. Maybe the PO was trying to save some weight.
I’m experimenting with different paint removers to see what works best. I’ll post some pics of what I learn.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #181 on:** July 26, 2021, 02:56:20 PM »

Another question for the experts.
Marsdens book talks about rubber plugs in the cylinder block, much like Honda’s I suppose. He lists the part as 92074-030 which is available. What I’m having trouble with is the installation, I have not seen a photo of where they go and my parts diagram does not show them. Anyone have a picture?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #182 on:** July 26, 2021, 05:01:46 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 26, 2021, 02:56:20 PM

Another question for the experts.
Marsdens book talks about rubber plugs in the cylinder block, much like Honda’s I suppose. He lists the part as 92074-030 which is available. What I’m having trouble with is the installation, I have not seen a photo of where they go and my parts diagram does not show them. Anyone have a picture?

I've got a Z1 cylinder block out in my garage Steve, I'll pull it out this afternoon and take a pic.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #183 on:** July 28, 2021, 02:54:23 PM »

I’ve got my carb parts!! I’ll get the carbs together and see if it will run.
The carb kits came with the pressed in brass insert that the needle goes through. It looks like this would press out going down toward the main jet. Anyone have an opinion on how necessary it might be to replace them? I’m nervous about doing some fatal damage to the main jet tower in the carb. It jus seems risky, my inserts don’t look too bad but I really can’t see them that well either.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #184 on:** July 28, 2021, 03:09:36 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 28, 2021, 02:54:23 PM

I’ve got my carb parts!! I’ll get the carbs together and see if it will run.
The carb kits came with the pressed in brass insert that the needle goes through. It looks like this would press out going down toward the main jet. Anyone have an opinion on how necessary it might be to replace them? I’m nervous about doing some fatal damage to the main jet tower in the carb. It jus seems risky, my inserts don’t look too bad but I really can’t see them that well either.

Maui,you have a pic of the brass parts ?

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #185 on:** July 28, 2021, 03:20:33 PM »

pressed in brass insert is known as the needle jet. Yes, most guys will push those down with a wooden dowel. I have used a chopstick to good effect here several times...but hold on a minute, same deal as Keihins here. Don't replace your Mikuni parts with aftermarket unless you have no choice. Mikuni needle jets and jet needles are known to wear slightly more rapidly than the Keihin parts in say your roundtops. Ignore all this if those very early Mikuni vm's are drastically different in this regard than the later vm's that I am familiar with.

I encourage you to start thinking of less intrusive ways to get the bike running. Ask yourself "what does this part do?" "what would be the result if I broke it versus the benefit of disturbing it?"

MauiK3 · « **Reply #186 on:** July 28, 2021, 07:54:23 PM »

Exactly why I asked, it looks as though changing the brass the needles go through (needle jet pc

has a certain amount of risk I’m not willing to take unless I see a problem. My needles look a little worn when looked at with my magnifying glass so I’m ok with changing them. I save everything of course.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #187 on:** July 28, 2021, 08:07:50 PM »

plenty of oem Mikuni brass carb parts available unless the early ones use something special

Jeff.Saunders · « **Reply #188 on:** July 29, 2021, 12:18:53 PM »

needle jets usually pop out easily - just use something as a drift - I usually use a cheap plastic pen. You just don't want to use metal.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #189 on:** July 29, 2021, 02:49:40 PM »

Good to know, thank you

grcamna2 · « **Reply #190 on:** July 29, 2021, 03:47:51 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 28, 2021, 07:54:23 PM

Exactly why I asked, it looks as though changing the brass the needles go through (needle jet pc has a certain amount of risk I’m not willing to take unless I see a problem. My needles look a little worn when looked at with my magnifying glass so I’m ok with changing them. I save everything of course.

I've used a special set of wire gauges to carefully insert and measure the i.d. of the top opening on each needle jet before to see how worn(if any)they may be.A set of 1-60 precision drill bits will work(using the shank ends)if they don't have any wear on the shanks from a drill chuck;they come in .002-.003" increments and can be useful as 'Go/No Go' gauges.
The only 'unknown' is what a new needle-jet measurement would be.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #191 on:** July 29, 2021, 06:48:06 PM »

Great idea, I go down to a #60 drill, I’ll check them out.
The carbs will come off again after I run it and then take it apart. Right now I am bench synchronizing them and my shop manual is not like my carbs. The initial setting of the slides requires a .6 to .7 mm space between the notch in the bottom of the slide and the throat. It implies I can adjust all 4 carbs this way. I seem to have a set where the number 4 carb is a fixed setting and the others are adjusted (initially) to match. I included a photo or two. You can see that number 4 has no adjustment screw. The gap under the slide is fixed and is about .5mm. I do not have a drill bit that small but I do have my wife’s silver and gold filled wire. I got a piece and carefully flattened it to make a go gauge. All 4 set now, next step is clear tube check for which I made a little stand.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #192 on:** July 30, 2021, 06:50:37 PM »

My NOS fenders are in transit. I'm anxious to see them.
My clear tube tool is being delivered today (they say) so I can get the carbs done (for now). Maybe it will run soon!!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #193 on:** July 31, 2021, 08:16:31 AM »

Got some stuff!! The front fender looks very nice, as far as I can see the only thing that identifies it as NOS is how nice it looks and the label that was on the plastic bag that was around it, I'm saving the label. There are no build date stamps on it that I can see. My clear tube tool came too so I'll get after the carbs.

754 · « **Reply #194 on:** July 31, 2021, 08:46:04 AM »

Just crank up idle on non adjust carb to a bigger drill size.. i think that should work .. then make the rest the same.

Just heard from a guy on another forum.... one of the Z 1, s Vic sold in Kelowna only made it 10 miles before it got wrecked....

PeWe · « **Reply #195 on:** July 31, 2021, 09:30:23 AM »

Relaxing method to adjust the float heights.
A little bit trickier on bike.

I replaced my Mikuni VM29 bowl x-screws with allen heads as my first thing when mounted back in the days. OK to remove when on bike. Same with top covers.
A stock bike must have stock parts, though.

Must feel good with good parts coming your way.

I look forward to see the result.

I'm sure we are many that will ban ourselves why did not buy a Z1 20-25 years ago while still not that expensive when seeing this build when ready.

Stev-o · « **Reply #196 on:** July 31, 2021, 10:05:37 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on July 31, 2021, 08:16:31 AM

Got some stuff!! The front fender looks very nice...

Fun! Fender looks great. And new tools that [hopefully] never get used.

You are rollin' now Maui...

MauiK3 · « **Reply #197 on:** July 31, 2021, 03:50:59 PM »

My carbs have stainless Allen screws. I’m going to get a set of x screws to put in if I decide to sell.
I found NOS handlebars!

Here’s a story
Before I bought this I was looking at a 74 package with 2 engines. It was very rough, the sticker on the neck was gone, lots of other issues including years of lapsed registration which can get costly here. I thought about it but then I found the 73 (72 build) which cost more but has fewer expensive problems. Terry and I discussed shipping the 74 to Oz but it’s pretty tough to do and very expensive. Turns out a guy in Indiana bought it and had it shipped there. The owner here said the buyer is buying all he can get his hands on, selling some and keeping others.
What a market.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #198 on:** July 31, 2021, 06:19:32 PM »

Yep, I'm glad I bought my K0 and Z1-B when I did, even in the last year the prices have risen probably 25%, it'll be interesting to see if the prices keep rising, or if the bottom drops out when a new generation of motorcycle collectors become "collectors" like us, and don't have the same interest in bikes from the 60's and 70's like we do, because their favourites were GSXR's, ZZR's, Fire Blades, and FZR's?

Having said that, Vincents, Brough Superiors etc are selling for 6 figures or more, and none of the guys who rode them when new are still riding now, so I guess there's still gonna be a market for our favourite bikes in years to come.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #199 on:** July 31, 2021, 08:35:34 PM »

Did the clear tube float check today, easier than I expected. #1 was a little low, the others looked just about right. Tomorrow I may be able to start it.
I was able to tweak #1 first try.
Have to watch the meniscus when using the tube. The photo is maybe a little off due to parallax.

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Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 50269 times)

ken65

ken65