Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 50613 times)

grcamna2 · « **Reply #575 on:** November 15, 2021, 06:06:03 PM »

I've heard of folks using drywall screws inside a tank,although I'd be worried they might cut-through thin steel somewhere

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #576 on:** November 16, 2021, 01:10:04 AM »

Well I suppose that if it was that thin that a dry wall screw would go thru it, it would best be repaired properly before a show quality paint job was applied, Bill.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #577 on:** November 16, 2021, 07:04:33 AM »

Now that's creative!!
I need to find a little electric cement mixer.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #578 on:** November 16, 2021, 02:41:16 PM »

Yep, a cement mixer would probably be better again!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #579 on:** November 20, 2021, 02:26:44 PM »

I wasn’t satisfied with my electrolysis results in my tank and I didn’t want to keep going with it. I had some Metal Prep/Concrete Etch left, about half a gallon. I put it in the tank, filled it with water and let it sit for about 3 hours. I removed the solution, rinsed three or four times and the results are much better. I’ll get some photos. I think the electrolysis softened it all up and the acid finished the job. I dried it and fogged it with some moisture displacing spray I have for electronics.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #580 on:** November 20, 2021, 03:23:00 PM »

Yep, I've tried electrolysis too Steve, and while quite interesting, it's not a patch on chemical rust removal. I can remove all the rust in a tank overnight with phosphoric acid, or wait a week for electrolysis to do half the job.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #581 on:** November 21, 2021, 06:49:32 PM »

I’ve been diverted lately to some other stuff but I spent some time preparing to assemble the top end. As I suspected the idler shaft TSB Z25 was incomplete. The TSB says to relieve the inboard side of the shaft slot so the shaft can settle all the way into the slot. I should be able to dress that up tomorrow.
I also attached a few photos. The tank photo is blurry but it looks better after the diluted Metal Prep treatment.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #582 on:** November 22, 2021, 04:06:34 AM »

That tank's looking great Steve, well done. I'll have to refer back to your engine build pics when I finish off assembling my 1100cc Moriwaki Z1-B engine, I remember that I had to buy a special top cam chain tensioner from APE, I can't remember exactly why the OEM parts wouldn't work, I'll have to refer back to my build thread so I can remember.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #583 on:** November 22, 2021, 07:02:41 AM »

John Brooks' book is the savior. He explains that early on the shafts would fracture where the flat ends meet the round part of the shafts. Originally the flat ends were below the diameter and the rubber filled the gap. The later shafts had the flat spot above the diameter with thinner rubber block, hence the need to provide some clearance to allow the shafts to settle to the seat of the saddle area.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #584 on:** November 22, 2021, 01:43:39 PM »

I worked on my cam chain problem today. I didn’t want flying aluminum so I taped off. A tiny carbide barrel shaped burr did the trick, the shafts settle right in now.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #585 on:** November 22, 2021, 03:32:56 PM »

That looks much better Steve;do you have a new idler sprocket to install ?

MauiK3 · « **Reply #586 on:** November 23, 2021, 07:06:04 AM »

The sprockets are fresh, the PO put them in around 2009 and the bike was not ridden much at all.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #587 on:** November 23, 2021, 07:10:33 AM »

I also test fit the cylinders.
No photos but I got them down on to the pistons and they seem to rock a little when all the way down. I suppose this is due to the rubber blocks on the idler under the cylinders. I raised the cylinders up a little to look and I noticed the o rings on the cylinders oozed back out of the grooves a bit. Maybe I'm worrying too much but I wish they had stayed in place. I suppose they will push back into place as I torque up? Or do I remove the cylinders and try to get the to stay in the groove?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #588 on:** November 23, 2021, 09:36:10 PM »

I remember having a similar thought when I assembled the 1428cc KZ1000 engine and the 1100cc Moriwaki engines Steveas the rubbers sat slightly "proud" of everything, but everything looked fine after I torqued the engine down in small incremental stages. I have to pull the Z1-B engine's head off again though as I want to replace the odd steel inlet valve with a stainless steel replacement, to match the other 7. (no, I've no idea why a PO installed an odd valve in that head......)

MauiK3 · « **Reply #589 on:** November 24, 2021, 01:48:34 PM »

I removed the cylinders and found that the lower idler shaft had rotated a bit making the rubber block too proud. I put it back and lightly tamped it down so it would sit still.
I also coaxed the o rings into the grooves which isn’t easy as they like to kink up.
Second time was a charm, went right together, all torqued up. Move on to the head, which went on nicely, working on cams right now, I’ll get new photos.
I took a look at my old cams and the exhaust is even worse than I thought, I’m glad I got a set of hollow stock cams from Johnny’s.
I ordered the exhaust, it will be fun to hear it run with stock exhaust and a choke system that works.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #590 on:** November 24, 2021, 02:28:53 PM »

I’m thinking I need to think about shocks. Various sites list stock looking shocks for a little over $100, they can’t be doing much except taking up space for that money. I’m looking at Hagon and Ikon to see if they make something close to stock looking. I have Hagons on my K3, they seem to be good shocks and I think they are in Australia? Or is it Ikon. I sent Both an email to see if they carry something that will work and look “stockish” I know they won’t have the reflector mount but European spec bikes didn’t have the shock reflector and the fork reflector was a chrome disc.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #591 on:** November 24, 2021, 06:22:07 PM »

The head is on, not without some drama.
As I was tightening down the left intake cam bearing cap I heard a disturbing pop. What happened is the shim under #2 intake must have not been seated all the way and broke. I got all the pieces but it puckered me up some. My clearances right now (except for #2) are all about .001” too loose right now. When I find the tool which is in the tool pile somewhere I can proceed to get them set. I got the timing right which wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #592 on:** November 25, 2021, 02:36:07 AM »

Looks great Steve, well done.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #593 on:** November 25, 2021, 10:44:14 AM »

She's coming together.
I hope you're able to hold the valve in place(air pressure)and replace that lower valve spring seat/shim with no problems;the bike is 'on the rise'

craz1 · « **Reply #594 on:** November 25, 2021, 12:19:24 PM »

I see you caught the modification to the idler cams. My last 73 had major damage to the lower idler which required welding and machining. Timing on these bikes is pretty straight forward but I normally count the links twice back to the intake cam. I hope those sprockets you used were new as they can fail. I normally replace the stock units with Liska cam guide sprockets. What number is your engine. The early engine had a recall on the shim buckets and should be replaced if you see a dimple in the middle of them. In those buckets they had issues of shims breaking. My 10/72 bike never had the recall done and had the original buckets. I was able to source new NOS buckets to replace them however I see used ones on Ebay all the time.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #595 on:** November 25, 2021, 01:56:29 PM »

Engine is 1784.
I have the modified lifters, all seems well.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #596 on:** November 27, 2021, 07:12:05 AM »

Modified idlers, correction.
I got the valves adjusted yesterday. I bought the Kawasaki tool that holds the lifter down so the shim can be removed. It worked well but it relies on an allen set type screw to hold it in place, marring the exterior paint on the head, I'll need to touch it up.
I also installed the oil pump and oil pan.
Then I discovered something I missed when cleaning things up. My stator was improperly installed by the previous owner and had been rubbing the dynamo rotor, two leads are worn through to copper. Bummer.
I ordered a replacement just in case but I may try to fix the wires though I'm not sure how yet.
I'll get a photo.

craz1 · « **Reply #597 on:** November 27, 2021, 09:40:14 AM »

That set screw only needs to be finger tight (just touching the side) and should not Marr the paint too bad or not at all. Touch it up and once the engine is started It should help cure the paint.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #598 on:** November 27, 2021, 04:39:14 PM »

As long as the wires are still solid apply some epoxy after giving a rubdown of acetone to remove any contamination. It likely is fine...
Throw a good multimeter on the leads to ensure it tests within spec.

Don R · « **Reply #599 on:** November 28, 2021, 07:49:27 AM »

I was considering using a reproduction Z1 airbox on a cb750 with a set of 29 smoothbore carbs, your pictures show why it may not fit. Thanks.
I spent $400 returning the air intake of my 80 KZ1000 to original, the Z1 box may have been more fun on it too.

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Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 50613 times)