Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 47437 times)

grcamna2 · « **Reply #425 on:** September 19, 2021, 08:46:50 PM »

Nice work on those cylinders

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #426 on:** September 19, 2021, 11:14:19 PM »

The cylinders look great Steve, well done. I always wonder whether the bare edges promote the paint lifting, would it be worthwhile to clearcoat them? I saw somewhere someone had their cylinder block powdercoated black, sanded back the edges of the fins and then had them powdercoated clear afterwards? Regardless, great work!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #427 on:** September 20, 2021, 07:58:53 AM »

I'm thinking about clear coating, yes, I'm sure in our marine environment that would be where the paint lifted first without a sealed edge.

I need to solve my kick starter mystery also.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #428 on:** September 20, 2021, 09:40:09 AM »

I feel stupid
The spring goes in after the case is assembled
Duh

MauiK3 · « **Reply #429 on:** September 22, 2021, 07:29:47 PM »

The head has valves back in it now. It went smoothly if a little fiddly. I stacked it up just to have a look. I realized the valve cover looks to be symmetrical, no front or back as far as I can see. I’m studying John Brookes book and it doesn’t indicate a back and front. I’ll check some more to be sure.
I also am looking closely at the cylinder block. According to the engine number it’s not supposed to have o rings at the cylinder bases but they were there when I took it apart and there is a groove there. I’ll look at casting marks to see if I can figure out anything. They supposedly started using base o rings at engine 14318. I’m 1784. As far as I know it’s the original cylinder, no o ring groove on top, one piece head gasket.
Onward I go. Chrome stuff going to SoCal tomorrow.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #430 on:** September 22, 2021, 08:07:07 PM »

I would use O-rings under the base gasket,if there's a place for them.
How did your exhaust valve guides go:measure ok ?

754 · « **Reply #431 on:** September 22, 2021, 09:39:57 PM »

I dont know that there is a groove for O ring on Hondas, i think its just a specific size chamfer..

RAFster122s · « **Reply #432 on:** September 22, 2021, 11:32:47 PM »

Looks very nice Steve. You have made good progress on the project in the short time you have been working on it.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #433 on:** September 23, 2021, 08:01:35 AM »

I purchased a set of Mitutoyo small bore gauges, they are like jewelry. I measured the guides and they are right in the middle of the tolerance, I did not need to change them, luckily.
New valve guide seals went in.
I'll assemble engine cases next, set that aside and then start working on making a rolling frame. I have wheels to lace, etc. I'll need to get some tires soon.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #434 on:** September 23, 2021, 08:39:43 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on September 23, 2021, 08:01:35 AM

I purchased a set of Mitutoyo small bore gauges, they are like jewelry. I measured the guides and they are right in the middle of the tolerance, I did not need to change them, luckily.
New valve guide seals went in.
I'll assemble engine cases next, set that aside and then start working on making a rolling frame. I have wheels to lace, etc. I'll need to get some tires soon.

Will you paint the cases separately and mask them off similar to how you blocked them off for blasting? I ask because I'd like to learn

MauiK3 · « **Reply #435 on:** September 23, 2021, 03:00:48 PM »

Yes, I masked off the cases and painted them. Lots of blue and green tape.
After many cleanings, gasket surface cleaning, oil passage cleaning, flushing with acetone, denatured alcohol and simple green, tapped out holes, cleaned again………..I taped it all off. I have a small lazy Susan I paint on, that way I can turn the piece to get around to the other side.
I kept my wood blanks that I used for bead blasting if you are doing a Z1. They are crude but they mostly worked, I didn’t find glass inside except for one area around the starter. Before blasting I cleaned the cases in Simple Green, removed as much paint as I could with Citrus Strip, pressure washed and soaked in Simple Green again. Then I masked off with yards of green tape, then I put the blanks on. This engine had been painted over by the PO so it had very thick paint, it was a real chore but it came out ok, I’ll post more photos soon.
By the way, I have been spraying the acetone and alcohol with these glass spray bottles I found at Target, they work well.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #436 on:** September 24, 2021, 06:29:48 PM »

Looking good Steve, what's the crank and gearbox bearings like? I ditched the crank on my KZ1000 because the previous owner had cut the end off it (drag bike) and I replaced it with a NOS welded and balanced "Eagle" crank, and liked it so much I bought another one for my Z1-B from the same seller.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #437 on:** September 24, 2021, 07:13:37 PM »

All that stuff looked very good, nice and smooth.
Got the front wheel up in the stand today, it’s getting there, I have a hop of about 0.075” centered on the weld, have to work on that some more.
I’m also trying to figure out the final torque, the instructions say 80 inch lbs, that seems like a lot. They are stainless spokes and nipples. Forgot what I used on the K3.
I just noticed in the photo that the shaft rode up on the bearing,oops.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #438 on:** September 24, 2021, 07:49:33 PM »

Looks great Steve, that hub fascinates me, a totally different casting than my Z1-B front hub, it's interesting seeing all the differences between your "Holy Grail" Z1 and mine.

craz1 · « **Reply #439 on:** September 25, 2021, 02:06:31 PM »

I have been using 40-45 inch pounds on rear and 45-50 on front. 80 is to much. The torque I stated is what Buchanans used when they did my friends 75 Z1 rims.

Also use the o-rings for the bottom of the cylinders. On some engines the liners are pretty loose. I have a 75 cylinder and after leaving it in the sun the liners came right out. If they are loose you run the chance of hot spots on the liners. On one of my 74 Z1 bikes I had new liners put in due to the problem. Yes the 73 uses a one piece head gasket where as the 74-75 use a two piece with oring head gasket. Also I have to tell you the polished fins only should be on the sides of the cylinders and head not all the way around. I made the same mistake on my 73 I did 12 years ago. I got the last 73 correct.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #440 on:** September 25, 2021, 02:49:56 PM »

Thank you for the information. I was thinking 50 inch pounds would be the max, I’ll stop at 45.
There seems to be conflicting information about fin finish. Marsdens book clearly states the silver fins go around the front on the head and cylinder block, Brooks book doesn’t seem to address it.
Makes it tough for someone like me who has been a Honda Sohc four guy!
I’ll do more research. It makes more sense for it to be only the sides.

69cb750 · « **Reply #441 on:** September 26, 2021, 05:38:09 AM »

Quote

There seems to be conflicting information about fin finish. Marsdens book clearly states the silver fins go around the front on the head and cylinder block, Brooks book doesn’t seem to address it.

Marsden is mistaken, I've owned several original bikes.

754 · « **Reply #442 on:** September 26, 2021, 10:51:34 AM »

I may be incorrect , but is not 72 ich lbs ..like 6 ft lbs ?
That shoukd not overstress a steel spoke..imo.
I do this when lacing a wheel, take a soft drift to end of nipple , when wheel is finished ir near finished.. maks sure its all seated.. or it can go out of tune easier and need adjusting.
So on a brand new assembly I think there us always a slight chance of the parts bedding in.. this includes hub if spokes are not exactly identical......... fwiw.... my theory.l

MauiK3 · « **Reply #443 on:** September 26, 2021, 02:31:32 PM »

I finished the rear hub, still need to trim a bit off some nipples. I think I’ll put both back on the stand on a few days after tapping the spokes some just to see.
The rear came in more quickly than the front, better rim, shorter spokes, better mechanic, who knows.
I’m hopefully going to order tires this week, the shipping will likely be as much as the tires………life in paradise.
I’m looking at Hidenau vintage style tires, rib front black rear. They are German tires and seem to have good reviews.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #444 on:** September 26, 2021, 02:31:58 PM »

Typo, block rear.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #445 on:** September 28, 2021, 02:42:23 PM »

Found a set of Duro tires at Revzilla, ordered. I’m getting the 317, 318. I hope they work well, never tried Duro.
Got the cases bolted together yesterday. Pretty straightforward, the kick starter spring goes in after the cases are together.
I also bead blasted and painted the handlebar switch housings, now I have to go get a really fine brush and some paint to do the lettering. I’ll need a steady hand!

The bead blasting works well, I’m tempted to take the carbs back apart and brighten them up.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #446 on:** September 28, 2021, 03:43:57 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on September 28, 2021, 02:42:23 PM

Found a set of Duro tires at Revzilla, ordered. I’m getting the 317, 318. I hope they work well, never tried Duro.
Got the cases bolted together yesterday. Pretty straightforward, the kick starter spring goes in after the cases are together.
I also bead blasted and painted the handlebar switch housings, now I have to go get a really fine brush and some paint to do the lettering. I’ll need a steady hand!

The bead blasting works well, I’m tempted to take the carbs back apart and brighten them up.

Steve,when painting the fine detail lettering inscribed into the OEM handlebar switch castings I used a few fine,round toothpicks which worked well.

Hoosier Honda · « **Reply #447 on:** September 28, 2021, 07:08:24 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on September 28, 2021, 02:42:23 PM

Found a set of Duro tires at Revzilla, ordered. I’m getting the 317, 318. I hope they work well, never tried Duro.
Got the cases bolted together yesterday. Pretty straightforward, the kick starter spring goes in after the cases are together.
I also bead blasted and painted the handlebar switch housings, now I have to go get a really fine brush and some paint to do the lettering. I’ll need a steady hand!

The bead blasting works well, I’m tempted to take the carbs back apart and brighten them up.

I'm running Duro tires on my Super Sport, only have about 2000 miles on them so far but no problems and good grip. You are moving right along, It's going to be nice.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #448 on:** September 28, 2021, 07:23:55 PM »

Put the kick starter cover, breather, oil pressure switch pipe and the clutch basket on, I also installed the stator.
I'll hit a stopping point soon waiting for tires. I want a rolling frame before I put the engine in the frame without the cylinders and head.
I don't want any of the polished covers on for assembly in the frame for obvious reasons. At least any nicks on the frame and engine paint can be touched up since it is POR15 on the frame and Duplicolor on the engine.
I'm going to go find the yellowish and white paint for the switches tomorrow. My wife is the color expert so I'm taking Brookes book which has some good photos for reference.
It's always more fun when at least some things go together.
My parts made it to the chrome shop in SOCAL.

Stev-o · « **Reply #449 on:** September 29, 2021, 09:36:04 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on September 28, 2021, 02:42:23 PM

Found a set of Duro tires at Revzilla, ordered. I’m getting the 317, 318. I hope they work well, never tried Duro.

Hey Steve...I bought a CB450 last year and it had a set of old Duro's on it, the bike did not handle very well above 45mph. I replaced the tires as well as the head bearings, it handles so much better now.
Given that experience, I would not recommend the chinese made Duros.

When it came time to install tires on my Z1, I wanted a very high quality tire and went with Avons. That was eight years ago and never regretted it for a second.

Curious what Terry [Shinko's?] and Craz1 have on their Z1's?

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Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 47437 times)