Topic: One problem after another, no oil pressure

[samm_j2]

I think im gonna rename the thread "to oil pressure gauge or to not oil pressure gauge,"

I will rebuild/replace the pump with new orings and gasket  and slap it back in. Get a new game and check the psi. If low replace bearings and check all oil passages. If good run it until the next problem.

[PeWe]

The stock pressure sensor works?
On with ignition, off when engine is running?

I think the limit is 5PSI for it to alarm with red light.

[samm_j2]

Yes, the stock dummy light has always worked. I may have panicked more than I should have when the gauge read zero. Regardless the gauge was zero but no dummy light on, so it did have some pressure. But not as much as I would like. Granted 10w40 in 100+ f Temps. It has been a warm year to say the least. Not all hope may be lost.

When I replaced the cam I ran the motor with the cam cover off to make damn sure there was oil to the top end. My buddy got a shot of it in slow mo I should post, its pretty cool...

So I did pump a good amount of oil out and maybe over filled it and that is why the oil tank looked over flown and why it was not pumping, I also did not run it very long when looking in the oil tank...

Honestly, part of my wants to split the case and check the bearings, 1 for piece of mind, 2 it would be a great excuse to throw in a lightened and balanced crank haha.

Gonna go with the oil pump first, make sure oil makes it to the top end, warm it up, and check p pressure with a new and tested gauge. If above 40psi ill call it good, if not I will split the case. Hopefully get it all bolted up before the fall semester starts.

[PeWe]

The cause of the problem might be the usual then. Cam get no oil, plugged oil hole.

It can come after a while when something along the way after oil filter get loose and plug the tight oil passage.

Like paint on the 2 inner studs inlet side or additional sealer on base or head gasket. It need some extra sealer between cases to flow over the 18x3 o-ring after the oil filter.
Or if the 2 inner studs are locked with too much Loctite.

I usually have this in my mind when replacing oil filter. Clean the area and cover + bolt before closing it with new filter.
Dirt here can reach the oil orifices in head, nothing that stop it after filter.
Dirt from inside of the engine can not reach the top end if filter sit correct with its spring (with washer to filter) on right side pressing it against case, only end up in pan or oil pump strainer.
Good idea to clean 1000km after a total rebuild. A fresh Honda gasket can be reused several times if not broken during a too eager removal of pan. Different with a really old one.
After that clean every 10.000km or so.
Clogged  strainer can end up in no oil to oil tank and sudden lack of oil.

[samm_j2]

Ok, I think allnis well. But want to make sure.

New(er/ish) pump, 20w50 oil, new oil pressure gauge.

On start up 60-70+ psi

Once warm 10psi at idle and when on throttle I have 40psi, sometimes it is around 38 and sometimes up around 50.

So I THINK the crank bearings are all good.

I will say for a few minutes of driving pressure was not going above 20 but then it did go up to the 40 and stayed there when on throttle...

Let me know if yall think im ok.

Thanks!

[MauiK3]

It’s warm here
I see 10psi at idle sometimes, you should be ok, listen for strange noises. I find that with my full face helmet, visor up, if I look down at engine at, say 30 mph, 3000 or so rpm, I get a nice uniform machine sound, no clacks or clunks. If the valves are off I will get ticking from the offending valve. When they are right it’s a nice symphony. No loud players.

[samm_j2]

No noises, it sounds tip top. People here have just caused me to be paranoid about the crank bearings running without oil since the rocker for 1st cylinder went without oil...

So now just paranoid...

[PeWe]

" On start up 60-70+ psi

Once warm 10psi at idle and when on throttle I have 40psi, sometimes it is around 38 and sometimes up around 50. "

Those numbers sounds healthy for me, like my bikes

[Don R]

 Usually a dry rocker is caused by a plugged oil jet under the cam tower. It has little to do with oil in the crankshaft.

[samm_j2]

Ya I understand that but I had this custom oil bag with the feed in not the best place originally. So when it was in its side stand it would eventually starve for oil... oil bag has since been modified so it is always providing oil...

[scottly]

I would still be very suspicious of the "custom" oil tank. Did you build it yourself?

[samm_j2]

Haha I hear ya scottly. Curt from "anything goes" made the tank. Its a great tanka really, he does fabulous work. I designed it and he fabbed it up for me.

Maybe I am underestimating the "simplicity" of an oil tank.  Feed to feed, return line and breather to back of case. Right?

[PeWe]

The oil hose connection on tank ---> pump must sit in the tanks lowest position so it can flow to pump.
If the root cause really was the tank causing cam failure, crank and rods bearings with journals cant be OK.

[samm_j2]

PeWe, I appreciate your continued response in helping figure this out. It was only the lobe for cylinder 1 so it could have been a clog... if the lower end was starved would more of the cam been ruined? And wouldn't my oil pressure be lower??

Appreciate the insight.

[PeWe]

BUT, if the oil warning light did not lit and pressure sensor is OK. It cannot been completely out of oil if you had your eyes on it or should have at least noticed the red light within 5-10sec if lit.

Both my bikes will empty the oil tank if cold started and left to idle on sidestand. K6 and K2 as I wrote earlier.

Both tanks clearly had oil before start. Both pumps restored and do not let oil flow to sump when parked for long.

So back to the "normal" way to get lack of oil in the top-end.
This case was very mild. I have read about a bike or 2 that broke the cam.