Author Topic: Hand control locator pins (Read 2073 times)

Kenzo1979 · « **on:** August 07, 2021, 08:06:49 AM »

Can’t find an exact part number on any parts fiche, But does anybody out there know where I can get more of these pins for locking the controls into the handlebars?

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carnivorous chicken · « **Reply #1 on:** August 07, 2021, 08:16:08 AM »

I imagine someone here might have a few -- some people take them off when they switch bars, and you can get by without them.

Don R · « **Reply #2 on:** August 07, 2021, 08:35:29 AM »

It's annoying when my controls/mirrors rotate.

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 07, 2021, 08:42:09 AM »

Quote from: carnivorous chicken on August 07, 2021, 08:16:08 AM

I imagine someone here might have a few -- some people take them off when they switch bars, and you can get by without them.

Yeah, actually I’ve been getting by without them forever. But I just ran into an incident with a buddy of mine… Took the bikes out on a camping trip and he put his bike on soft ground while throwing out a bag of trash, bike sunk down on Side stand, rolled forward a little and then fell over. Everything seemed completely fine until he tried to turn the bike on and the fuse blew. Here, It hit the clutch lever and pushed the controls in towards the center of the handlebars just enough to jack up some of the wiring and blow the main fuse. Took us about an hour and a half to figure everything out and correct the problem so we could get on the road. Of course it was when we were leaving to head home after a long weekend, ugggh. So then I thought to myself, “oh, that’s the benefit of those pins“, lol. I actually never had a problem with the controls turning on the handlebars without them. But I do agree that if they were there he would never have had that problem because it would have prevented them from lateral movement.

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bryanj · « **Reply #4 on:** August 07, 2021, 08:57:57 AM »

They were never available seperate only as part of the swotchgear

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #5 on:** August 07, 2021, 09:20:42 AM »

How many do you need? I have a bin of broken switches I go to for parts.....

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 07, 2021, 09:35:54 AM »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on August 07, 2021, 09:20:42 AM

How many do you need? I have a bin of broken switches I go to for parts.....

2 if you have them, much appreciated. PM me if you do and we’ll make arrangements. Thanks again.

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PNWCLASSIC · « **Reply #7 on:** August 07, 2021, 09:47:01 AM »

If you have any more, I need 2 as well. Thanks!

b1jackson · « **Reply #8 on:** August 08, 2021, 03:31:31 AM »

I made some out of a small socket head bolt. Just grind down the head until it fits in the hole. A wee dab of JB weld to hold it.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #9 on:** August 19, 2021, 08:23:32 AM »

Only found a pair. Posted to Ken today. John D.

HondaMan · « **Reply #10 on:** August 19, 2021, 09:01:07 AM »

Quote from: Don R on August 07, 2021, 08:35:29 AM

It's annoying when my controls/mirrors rotate.

...and sever the wiring in the handlebars...

jonda500 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 19, 2021, 05:40:35 PM »

I think the pin on the throttle side is not really necessary as the mirror and lever connect to the brake master rather than to the switch block so it's pretty unlikely that the wires would get severed in a stack?
John

HondaMan · « **Reply #12 on:** August 21, 2021, 05:14:22 PM »

Quote from: jonda500 on August 19, 2021, 05:40:35 PM

I think the pin on the throttle side is not really necessary as the mirror and lever connect to the brake master rather than to the switch block so it's pretty unlikely that the wires would get severed in a stack?
John

Actually, the pin is needed more on the throttle side, because the carbs fight back! When you twist that throttle toward you the switch housing receives the spring tension form the carb's spring and tries to rotate the opposite direction.

The big troubles come if the bike falls over or the switch housing screws work a little bit loose. Then the whole switch housing rotates, pinching the wires against the hole in the handlebars, if you have a pre-1977 bike with the hidden wires. After 1977 Honda started running the wires alongside the handlebars like Suzuki did and it reduced the total-bike failure if it just fell over on a hot day from the sidestand sinking into the asphalt. I used to fix a LOT of those little accidents in my shop as the college kids would park anywhere and everywhere with their bikes, and sometimes cars would nudge them in the tight parking spots, cascading half-a-dozen bikes over into each other. Bad days for the owners, not so bad for the shop(!).

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 21, 2021, 05:21:17 PM »

Yeah, I’ve always wondered why there are no grommets on the “through bar” wire holes. That would probably have helped a little. I do like to see less, so the internal wiring looks cleaner, but there is definitely several advantages of your wiring running outside.

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jonda500 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 21, 2021, 08:05:15 PM »

ok, if the screws are not tight the throttle side switch block may rotate with the throttle, but at least bumping the mirror or brake/(clutch) lever can't sever the wires on that side!
Maybe that's why re-pop L.H. switch blocks have externally routed wires whereas R.H. side still use internally routed wiring?
John
ps I do use the pins both sides - better safe than sorry! - does anyone have a method for working out exactly where to drill the hole for the pin? (my handle bars have a mess I made of several holes under the R.H. switch block, none of them in the ideal location!)

Alan F. · « **Reply #15 on:** August 22, 2021, 07:39:04 AM »

I would think making a set of jigs to locate the pin positions wouldn't be very difficult if someone with a set of stock bars were willing.

Perhaps some copper tubing sized to slip over the handlebars with an area filed to index the rotation (of the copper jig against the first bend encountered. Then it'd be a matter of locating a hole in the jig to center punch through into your bars.

These could be shared with other members as needed shipping in a USPS flat rate box for cheap.

I'm not entirely sure how this would work with aftermarket bars and their differing bends.

Perhaps a jig with a bubble level on the end, with the center punch hole located at the correct angle of rotation and distance from the ends of the bars. Just slip the copper on, level the bubble, and center punch.

One thoughtful mod to the bubble level jig above would be the addition of a clutch lever perch in order to accurately simulate lever position before punching and drilling.

Good luck Gents.

Maltboy · « **Reply #16 on:** August 23, 2021, 07:32:11 PM »

Mine was also missing so I tapped it to accept a short piece of M6 all-thread.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #17 on:** August 25, 2021, 05:00:19 AM »

P.S......does anyone have a method for working out exactly where to drill the hole for the pin? (my handle bars have a mess I made of several holes under the R.H. switch block, none of them in the ideal location!)

This job is a pain and I have found that some suppliers now have pre drilled bars available. They cost a bit more, but really worth it!

I had this challenge with the clip on bars for my Rickman CR. Looking through my scrap spares, I found two old switches (left and right) with no locator pins. They are also missing most of the guts, so I removed the internals. First I drilled the pin holes, right through the switch. Mount these to your new bars (mirror and levers mocked in). When totally satisfied with the location and angle, use the switch base as you drill guide.

Lay a piece of wide masking tape over you old bar holes. Trim out the pin and wiring holes. Transfer the tape to the new bar and line up on the pin hole. Start drilling and grinding with a Dremel to make the slot....

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 25, 2021, 05:14:13 AM »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on August 25, 2021, 05:00:19 AM

This job is a pain and I have found that some suppliers now have pre drilled bars available. They cost a bit more, but really worth it!

Yes. The Emgo 400F OEM style bars are one good option. Low profile, pre-drilled. I like them alot.

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jonda500 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 25, 2021, 07:32:08 AM »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on August 25, 2021, 05:00:19 AM

I had this challenge with the clip on bars for my Rickman CR. Looking through my scrap spares, I found two old switches (left and right) with no locator pins. They are also missing most of the guts, so I removed the internals. First I drilled the pin holes, right through the switch. Mount these to your new bars (mirror and levers mocked in). When totally satisfied with the location and angle, use the switch base as you drill guide.

Brilliant! thanks Benelli that is a perfect solution/way to get the holes in exactly the right place. My pre-drilled holes were less than ideally located in my bargain priced ($35!) ebay bars.
John

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2021, 05:28:52 PM »

It’s a slow process, but works (if you are patient). Good Luck!

Don R · « **Reply #21 on:** August 25, 2021, 08:32:05 PM »

I've smoothed the wire opening with a die grinder a few times after cutting the insulation on sharp edges once, it makes feeding the wires safe and easier.
I was hoping someone would find these available new somewhere.

pjlogue · « **Reply #22 on:** August 26, 2021, 05:41:05 AM »

What DonR said about smoothing the edges of the holes!!! I have rewired my bars 3x over the years. I was ~20 the first time and didn't take precaution and ended up sheering off a lot of insulation. In addition to the smoothing, I have taken to sucking a string through the bars to use as a pull. I then stager the bullet ends of the wires and use electricians (friction) tape to bind everything together. It also helps to manipulate the wires inside the plastic wire cover so they are as parallel as possible. It is a large mass of wire inside the bars on one side and the smaller you can make the mass the easier it is. First time I tried to pull/push the wires it took a very long time. Last time with the Propper prep, it took 30 min and zero damage.

-P.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #23 on:** August 26, 2021, 07:41:40 AM »

Years ago, an electrician friend gave me 1/2 a pail of the yellow grease they use for pulling big cables through conduit. I use a bit of that and cables move more easily.....

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 26, 2021, 07:46:11 AM »

Yep, cable pulling lubricant, you can get it at the hardware store or electrical supply, They’ve got it at Home Depot, works well. Also +1 on staggering the bullet connectors and using a pull string.

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Author Topic: Hand control locator pins (Read 2073 times)