The last two posts, I'd have to really study. I'm...eh, OK...with electrics. HOWEVER, why change the wiring of the stator of there is a REG/REC that will work? (Again, gotta dig that info up again).
Long story short:
-No spark
-new plugs on the way
-need to test coil and stator
- want to get better charging.
Can anyone walk me through this in really simple steps?
And here's the stator/regulator info (there's some more in detail, but I've already posted a million words):
There are 5 types or 12v stators out there for these bikes that generate electricity. Here is how you know which is which and what u can do with it.
1. Floating. You have two leads yellow and/or white. Measure resistance of zero at the ends AND measure open at the end and to the bolts of the plate. Here you need to purchase a full wave rectifier and run all voltage to the battery. This is usually a setup that is about 2.5x2.5" square and has 4 wires sticking off of it...yellow/white inputs, red to the battery, green to the battery split to ground. Then from the battery to your electronics. Typically this will provide 50-55watts DC power.
2. Split System. You have two leads, yellow and/or white. You measure resistance at the ends between them and they are open. You measure resistance between each one to the bolts and they are open. On this system you need a regulator/rectifier. This is usually the ones you see that have the 4 male prongs in a square pattern that a harness plugs into. One line goes to the rectifier line via the white input line and produces DC power and goes to the battery via the red line from the unit. The other line goes to an AC regulator side, usually yellow, and is tee'd and can be used to power your lights. Typically these result in approximately 13w DC to your battery and 35w AC to your lighting circuit as usually one line does produce more juice than the other (yellow usually makes more than the white on these)
3. Grounded style. You have two leads yellow and/or white. You measure resistance at the ends and it is zero. You measure ends to the bolts on the plate and it is also zero. This style means you need to actually ground one of those wires and then take the other wire and run it how you want. This can be either as a single line AC circuit producing about 50w and power your lights ( you get a stand alone regulator for this), or you can run to a rectifier and get 25w DC and run to your battery (same style as the split system, but you ignore the regulator prong. Some people will take this 50w AC single line and split it to a regulator to power AC things and also to the Rectifier to power DC things (single input, split to work on the same hardware as the Split system). It does work, but I would think it would tax the overall system components. If you do it, you can wire it just like the split system.
4. Single Line. Effectively the same thing as grounded style, but you only get one line, usually yellow. Typically this is seen on the smaller versions of the outer rotors and do not produce as much wattage. Usually the max wattage is about 30w. You wire it the same way as you would with the Grounded Style...you can run full ac via just a regulator, you can run full DC by using the rectifier prongs, or you can split it just like above.
5. 3 Phase. The three phase setup is the most powerful and most like big bikes. This will produce about 150w DC power. This setup has three yellows coming out of it and goes to a full wave rectifier and produces full DC power to the battery. This one also powers the CDI unit directly from the battery, and not from independent coils. However, this one also means that if your battery is dead, you do not get any spark, no matter how much you kick it. That extra coil that is isolated to spark your system on the other 4 setups is now integrated to produce more overall power and delivers better conditioned juice to the CDI unit. Relatively rare.
