Author Topic: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO  (Read 8975 times)

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Offline kbart1

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #50 on: February 27, 2015, 08:47:25 pm »
hey guys

have a few more questions for ya. here they are in no particular order, with pics attached:

anybody have any photos of the stock wire harness routing, in particular near the coils? I took mine OVER the top of the coils and things seem fairly tight. is my routing correct? anybody have good photos of how it should be routed?

I have an oil cooler on this bike, came with it. I am not sure if it is really required? I have an 836 kit in this bike so maybe it is necessary? I really don't like it and would prefer not to run it. any thought on if it is beneficial to keep it on the bike. this will be a sunny day cruiser, not a racer.

lastly, bolted up the yamiya air box to the carbs today. seems that when I mount the airbox to the frame it pulls the air boots off the carb bodys or at least they are not on the carb bodies very well. almost as if something somewhere between the head and the airbox is to short? anybody had any experience with this?

thanks and looking forward to your thoughts.
kent


Offline Stev-o

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #51 on: February 28, 2015, 07:55:50 am »
My K4 is a sunny day rider and has an 836 as well, no oil cooler required.  If you were to commute in stop and go traffic on 100 degree days, it would be recommended.  I would take it off. 
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline Greggo

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #52 on: February 28, 2015, 09:02:37 am »
Here you go for the harness routing.



Make sure your carbs are level, and not angled upward..I had to rotate the boots to the head to get them angled properly, to get the box bolted in right.  FYI, K0 boots are slightly shorter than K1-6.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2015, 09:05:46 am by Greggo »

Offline kbart1

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #53 on: March 15, 2015, 06:49:25 pm »
hey guys

2 questions:

I recently rebuilt my petcock however it is still dripping a little fuel even when it is off. does the little wafer with the holes in it need to go in in a certain way? obviously one hole goes over the nub in the petcock to secure it but is there a front or back to the wafer? it looks the same on either side.

I also am trying to figure out the routing for the 2 hoses from the carbs that goes up to the petcock? anybody have a photo perhaps or can explain the routing?

thx a lot!
kent

Offline 754

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #54 on: March 15, 2015, 07:27:57 pm »
Sometimes I used a bit of grease on the rubber in the petcock. Helps seal a bit till the gas will likely puff up the rubber bits..
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Offline Greggo

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #55 on: March 16, 2015, 10:15:02 am »
I used some grease and mine still leaks a bit.  I'm going to go back in and bend the washer behind the knob just a bit more.

Offline Johnie

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #56 on: March 16, 2015, 11:06:36 am »
Here you go Kent. The pic is of the fuel lines between carbs 3 & 4.
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
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Offline kbart1

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #57 on: August 22, 2021, 01:34:02 pm »
hey all

so i have rolled this cb750 out of the back of the garage after awhile of not playing with it. i am gonna have a couple more questions as i am starting to tinker with it again. here ya go:

there has always been a bit of a rattle at idle and i was thinking it was cam chain related. i adjusted the tensioner as per the manual at 15 deg off tdc for # 1 cyl. and it seems to have gotten a BIT quieter. i decided to pull the tensioner out of the bike which i didn't realize was so easy. the tensioner is working as it should and it is not near the end of its extension. i did however jam my finger in the opening to feel the part that it pushes on when installed to tension the chain. i tried to move that part to see if it was free'd up and i cant move it. if it is designed to move in relation to the cam chain tensioner should it not have some movement to it???? FYI when i rev the bike up a bit the rattle seems to go away...........

i adjusted the valve lash however the cam cover is on so i had to use the tappet cover holes. my blade style feeler gauges do not fit in there very well so i am concerned how accurate they are. is there a different set of feeler gauges that would work better for this?

when replacing the tappet cover plugs i cracked one. stupidly over torqued it!  :-[ anybody know where a guy can buy just 1 tappet plug????

checked timing as well using my strobe. 1-4 were dead on accurate. 2-3 i need to work on a bit to get them spot on. stand by.

thats it for now. interested in any and all feedback. thanks!

Offline Stev-o

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #58 on: August 23, 2021, 07:22:36 am »
hey all

so i have rolled this cb750 out of the back of the garage after awhile of not playing with it.

5+ years?!

As far as the rattle noise at idle, have you sync'd your carbs?
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline MauiK3

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #59 on: August 23, 2021, 07:59:32 am »
Get thinner ended feeler gauges
Do all tuneup work prior to adjusting the carbs.
Cam chain tensioner adjustment only works when the engine is in the correct position.
Look on ebay for your valve cap. As you now know, they are fragile and only require light snug up, the o ring is what seals.
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #60 on: August 29, 2021, 09:12:25 am »
Does the noise go away at, say, 1500 RPM?
(This is a loaded question...)
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Offline Don R

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #61 on: September 09, 2021, 08:19:24 am »
 clutch rattle?
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
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Offline Don R

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Re: Kent restores a '70 CB750KO
« Reply #62 on: September 18, 2021, 07:38:14 pm »
 I believe the white corrosion was caused by gas additives from certain years fuel.
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
 CEO at the no kill motorcycle shop.
 You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.