Topic: Conventional oil only for WebCam performance camshaft?

[Translations]

In my paperwork for my WebCam performance cam it says explicitly to only use conventional oil in my 750F engine with this camshaft installed? I know during break in this is always a good practice but I was hoping to switch over to the good stuff after the engine has a good amount of miles on it?

What are your guys opinion? is it alright to switch to full synthetic after lets say my engine hits 1,000 miles? Sorry if this is a dumb question but that paperwork really through me off, i've never heard anything like that before?

[PeWe]

I have never read something like that.
It might be avoid oils to modern engines that are both thinner and have less of needed additives.

Most important an oil for motorcycle wet clutch and good amount of ZDDP (zinc and phosporous).
These are oils I have used and think are good with loads of the ZDDP cam and rockers need.
Spectro HD 20W-50 mineral
(There are a Spectro Semi too)
Red line motorcycle oil 20W-50.

Many other oils are made for modern engines with cat, zinc therefore  in much lower levels CB750 top end need, gearbox too.

[Translations]

Good to hear because I was thinking the same thing  That Spectro oil looks great I'll have to buy some for when I switch over!Thanks PeWe appreciate the knowledge!

[MRieck]

Synthetic oils do a very good job of draining back to the oil pan which doesn't leave much oil in the head during cold start up. That was the explanation I got years ago. I have used synthetic....mostly Motul...for years with no problems.

[Tracksnblades1]

Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate
A polar molecule
Over the nose pressures…

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Where’s the popcorn…

[Don R]

 What he ^ said. I think Lucas makes a cam break in oil that a lot of racers use regularly.
 
 

[bwaller]

I can't see why a full synthetic would be any problem. My only negative experience is with seating new rings and bore with a synth, otherwise go nuts.

[Tracksnblades1]

I can't see why a full synthetic would be any problem. My only negative experience is with seating new rings and bore with a synth, otherwise go nuts.

Indeed,

A Canadian’s insight on oils
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Current high pressure winner compared to the coveted diesel oils.
150,000+ vs 73,000+ psig failure loads

And then there’s the aviation multigrade that test better at higher temps..😳

[PeWe]

Another thing about oil and CB750.
One summer a few years ago was very hot here, often around 32C so I replaced Red Line 20W-50 with 20W-60 since oil pressure show rather low at lower rpm. I noticed that the starter gear started to slip rather often after that (CB900 DOHC starter). Clutch was still fine despite 90+whp.
Better when going back to 20W-50.

About synthetic and histories about more leak.
I'm sure that is when change to synthetic in an old engine that has long milage on old type of oil.
Compressed gaskets sealed by old oil residues. A newer type of oil/thinner oil might clean that burnt in stuff away and a leak might be born.

A new restore with fresh guides, seals, bores, pistons and gaskets another thing.

[bwaller]

Once you do your homework and eventually pick an engine oil, the best advice I might offer is to send a waste oil sample to a lab (Blackstone as an example) to get a read on viscosity breakdown, metals breakdown ZN level, etc.

This whole oil discussion can go overboard with opinions, but is important.

[PeWe]

Viscocity breakdown an important point. I read somewhere that a good oil can get lower viscosity rather quick. Oil change in time an important thing.

It would be nice to have a lab nearby, not trust the look and fingers only

[Tracksnblades1]

Once you do your homework and eventually pick an engine oil, the best advice I might offer is to send a waste oil sample to a lab (Blackstone as an example) to get a read on viscosity breakdown, metals breakdown ZN level, etc.

This whole oil discussion can go overboard with opinions, but is important.

+1
Caterpillar offers an oil sample test kit. When purchasing it comes with a number of oil analysis included. The kit is too expensive for anything without Cat style connectors. Googling the instructions provided in it will get you a good sample for testing.

Testing oil ready to be changed will establish a base line of what’s in your oil now. Continued oil analysis can detect an increase or decrease in contaminants. Providing an indication if your oil is meeting or falling short of the task your asking of it.

Having a retired engineer with a life long career in the lubrication industry, I’ll close with what he always says, “What ever you’re using today, is better than the best oil we formulated 40 years ago”.

[Don R]

  I read about a racer that sent in an oil sample for a test, it came back with a note that he should run an air filter. When he sent the next sample they told him it's better since he added the air filter.
  He never mentioned air filters to them. 

[mark ward]

Wow!  I never heard the air filter scenario before.
    With 3k miles on my 836 rebuild; I'm about to switch from conventional, to Motul synthetic.

[MRieck]

Wow!  I never heard the air filter scenario before.
    With 3k miles on my 836 rebuild; I'm about to switch from conventional, to Motul synthetic.

Megacycle recommends Motul synthetic....like the 300V

[PeWe]

Wow!  I never heard the air filter scenario before.
    With 3k miles on my 836 rebuild; I'm about to switch from conventional, to Motul synthetic.

Megacycle recommends Motul synthetic....like the 300V

I have used Motul 7100 20W-50.
It smell very strong and nice while idling, like perfume!

Higher lifting cams with high valve spring pressure need the best lubrication possible.

[mark ward]

Cool. I'll likely keep using that into the future then.  And Mike, I'll also be using double spark plug washers from now on; after learning that was the real culprit for my bent valve. I should have checked my plug-thread-depth; while the head was sitting on the bench; prior to install.
     Now I know that Honda had some variance in their castings, at the plug-holes.

[PeWe]

Do you use 12.5:1 pistons?
Or stock F2 pistons in K head?

Only pistons I have been forced to use double plug washers was CR 12.5:1 pistons.
Way too much for street engines. My JE 970cc (70mm) kit was like that, milled crowns around 3mm off to get normal good compression.
Very high compared to CB750 stock pistons.

Another JE 890cc (67mm) CR12.5:1 piston need around 2mm off which also will avoid double washers rather precise with around 1.3 mm clearance.
This to match 23.6-24cc chambers. Heads not specifically decked, only a little for fine surface removing scratched using MLS. 0.1-0.2 mm max.

Stock up to K6 is around 22.5cc.
Port job shaping chambers to hemi take them over 23cc. Possible to shave it to needed match for pistons used.

- Piston at TDC and measure depth, piston top vs plug seal surface.

[Tracksnblades1]

MegaCycle has it going on…🎯
The Brand is not enough…two from the same brand..
One getting it done, the other not so much..😁😩

[PeWe]

Look for Red Line 20W-50 motorcycle oil.
Loads of zinc and phosporous according to spec. Also an esther synth.
Made in USA so cheaper over there than here.

I bought Lucas Hot Rod oil 20W-50 but got a 2nd thought when it's for cars and probably has antifriction modifiers in it. A friend could use it in his buggy (Porsche 356 Spider replica).

[Tracksnblades1]

Look for Red Line 20W-50 motorcycle oil.
Loads of zinc and phosporous according to spec. Also an esther synth.
Made in USA so cheaper over there than here.

I bought Lucas Hot Rod oil 20W-50 but got a 2nd thought when it's for cars and probably has antifriction modifiers in it. A friend could use it in his buggy (Porsche 356 Spider replica).

I’ll keep lokking for your 20w-50 Red Line oil test…540Rat has his own way of codifying his results 😩
For now one of the best 20w-50s… Check out Fords 5w-50… and the best Diesel oil tested to date, Red Line…

[Tracksnblades1]

Some RedLine oils, really good..
A Spectro 10w-40, not so good, near the bottom…