Author Topic: 74 CB550 -no power (Read 3122 times)

Honigsl · « **on:** October 31, 2021, 04:33:43 PM »

I accidently left the ignition switch on when I took the key out and the battery died. I have since replaced the battery but there is still no power to the lights and the engine won't fire up.
Is there a check list for troubleshooting this type of problem?

Thanks for any help or direction you can give.

Sam

goodtryer · « **Reply #1 on:** October 31, 2021, 05:00:02 PM »

Are you sure the old battery is dead? Did you read the voltage with a meter? I ask because replacing a bad battery should have fixed your issue if the battery was the problem.

Also, are you able to kickstart the engine?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #2 on:** October 31, 2021, 05:16:03 PM »

Main fuse toast?

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 31, 2021, 05:21:27 PM »

First. Just because you drained your battery, doesn’t mean you need to replace it, you need to recharge it. If it doesn’t hold a charge, replace it. If you put a new one in - A: what type is it? If it is a regular lead acid, you sometimes need to add the electrolyte to the cells, which comes in a separate plastic pint sized container with the battery. And THEN B: you also need to charge it. Main point here is are you charging these batteries with a proper MC battery charger?…that’s a must have if you own a bike. If your new battery is sealed lead acid or acidic glass mat (which do not need filling), they sometimes come charged. But without a voltmeter, you wouldn’t know. In closing, you need a multimeter and a charger if you want to troubleshoot the electrical on your bike.

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Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 31, 2021, 05:23:48 PM »

Quote from: RAFster122s on October 31, 2021, 05:16:03 PM

Main fuse toast?

Yup, also need to check your fuses. Which you can usually do by eye, but SHOULD be done with a multimeter as well. Look at that manual, this is basic troubleshooting.

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bustech51 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 31, 2021, 05:26:08 PM »

I know this might hurt some feelings but I'll ask the question.
Is the battery hooked up properly? I got a call from a guy who couldn't get his 750 to do anything at all. When he put is a new battery he hooked it up backwards (tough to do but evidently not impossible). When i got there he had smoked the all harnesses. He blamed the guy at the parts store.
Check the fuses and do some electrical diagnosis. Probably main fuse fault.
Sorry for the long reply but it is kind of a funny story.

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Honigsl · « **Reply #6 on:** November 01, 2021, 10:07:29 AM »

Quote from: goodtryer on October 31, 2021, 05:00:02 PM

Are you sure the old battery is dead? Did you read the voltage with a meter? I ask because replacing a bad battery should have fixed your issue if the battery was the problem.

Also, are you able to kickstart the engine?

I took the battery to Auto Zone and they said it was dead.
and no, i am not able to kickstart it. The engine turns over but it won't fire up.

Honigsl · « **Reply #7 on:** November 01, 2021, 10:09:20 AM »

Quote from: bustech51 on October 31, 2021, 05:26:08 PM

I know this might hurt some feelings but I'll ask the question.
Is the battery hooked up properly? I got a call from a guy who couldn't get his 750 to do anything at all. When he put is a new battery he hooked it up backwards (tough to do but evidently not impossible). When i got there he had smoked the all harnesses. He blamed the guy at the parts store.
Check the fuses and do some electrical diagnosis. Probably main fuse fault.
Sorry for the long reply but it is kind of a funny story.

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Where is the main fuse?

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 01, 2021, 10:10:35 AM »

Again…check that you have a good 15A main fuse. Check that your new battery is connected correctly, + to positive cable going to starter magnetic switch and main harness, - to ground on frame. Check that new battery is in fact charged to at least 12v.

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Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2021, 10:12:59 AM »

Main fuse is under Left side cover where a lot of the electronics are … turn signal relay, regulator, etc…

You need to explore your bike a little more and get to know the basics. Look at a manual. I am excited for you to enjoy this bike, but you have to meet it half way.

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bustech51 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 01, 2021, 11:38:22 AM »

When you have a schematic of the wiring out you should also check the back side of the fuse holder. They sometimes corrode and loose their connection.
Get used to the schematics since with older bikes you will spend a bunch of time with it.

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Honigsl · « **Reply #11 on:** November 01, 2021, 12:00:28 PM »

Quote from: Kenzo1979 on November 01, 2021, 10:12:59 AM

Main fuse is under Left side cover where a lot of the electronics are … turn signal relay, regulator, etc…

You need to explore your bike a little more and get to know the basics. Look at a manual. I am excited for you to enjoy this bike, but you have to meet it half way.

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Thank you.
I purchased the bike about 2 months ago and just completed my motorcycle safety course. Haven't been able to ride it yet... I've been trying to follow the manual and all the diagrams but i'm realizing the previous owner stripped it down and changed some things. For example, the battery box he welded on the frame only fits the SLAA12-5.1A Duracell Ultra 12V 5.1AH General Purpose AGM SLA Battery with F1 Terminals (see attachment). It has been difficult trying to connect the main wires for the bike to F1 terminals on the battery. Has anyone seen this battery being used on motorcycle before?

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 01, 2021, 12:08:46 PM »

Ok, the starter motor definitely eats up a good amount of cranking juice. I remember your other post about that. So I take it you have no starter motor. Did you ever check for that? — Under the chrome rectangle cover, under the carbs on the left side of the engine.

These bikes generally use a 12AH battery, so this thing was stripped and modded to bare minimum electrics I would imagine. Headlight is your next biggest draw. You may want to start posting detailed pics and a list of non-stock alterations so you can get more concise help. Even with a 5AH battery, if it were charged and connected properly, you would see some sign of life somewhere - a light would go on somewhere at the very least, but who knows. Hard to imagine exactly what your dealing with over there…pics.

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bryanj · « **Reply #13 on:** November 01, 2021, 01:52:06 PM »

That battery aint up to it

RAFster122s · « **Reply #14 on:** November 01, 2021, 02:52:17 PM »

POs are the scourge of old bikes. How about some photos?
You need to start taking some voltage readings. Find out if thevoltage is getting past the ignition switch and start tracing where you are getting power. Start by looking for power at the ignition switch wiring. Red should be seeing 12v-12.6v from the battery and when turned on then black should see the same. There should be battery voltage on both sides of the main fuse.
Check that and report your findings.

Do you know how to use a multimeter?

bryanj · « **Reply #15 on:** November 01, 2021, 06:15:10 PM »

Now i got time consider the power drain before you start the engine
Coils
Idiot lights
Headlight if its US spec
Tail light if US
Front markers if US
And finaly power to field coil.

Then you start it, with kickstart on that battery, and it wont charge till over 3000 rpm

And with all this you, or rather idiot po, think a tiny battery will work
Sorry i really do not get these numbnuts that think electrical power is free and can be stored in a thimble!

Honigsl · « **Reply #16 on:** November 02, 2021, 11:54:51 AM »

Quote from: RAFster122s on November 01, 2021, 02:52:17 PM

POs are the scourge of old bikes. How about some photos?
You need to start taking some voltage readings. Find out if thevoltage is getting past the ignition switch and start tracing where you are getting power. Start by looking for power at the ignition switch wiring. Red should be seeing 12v-12.6v from the battery and when turned on then black should see the same. There should be battery voltage on both sides of the main fuse.
Check that and report your findings.

Do you know how to use a multimeter?

I have attached a pic of the battery and yes I have a basic understanding on how to use a multimeter.

Honigsl · « **Reply #17 on:** November 02, 2021, 12:09:46 PM »

Quote from: RAFster122s on November 01, 2021, 02:52:17 PM

POs are the scourge of old bikes. How about some photos?
You need to start taking some voltage readings. Find out if thevoltage is getting past the ignition switch and start tracing where you are getting power. Start by looking for power at the ignition switch wiring. Red should be seeing 12v-12.6v from the battery and when turned on then black should see the same. There should be battery voltage on both sides of the main fuse.
Check that and report your findings.

Do you know how to use a multimeter?

and what's a PO?

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 02, 2021, 12:11:37 PM »

Previous Owner

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Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 02, 2021, 12:14:08 PM »

This is the cover you want to look under for the starter motor BTW

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Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #20 on:** November 02, 2021, 12:22:01 PM »

Still hard to tell what’s completely going on, since your whole electrical panel was uprooted and things were either omitted or relocated. If you have experience with a DMM, then check for DC volts on the battery, make sure your positive and negative cables are going to the right terminals and make sure your fuse is good. If you’ve got 12V and a good fuse and everything is connected properly, you should see some kind of life somewhere.

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Honigsl · « **Reply #21 on:** November 02, 2021, 05:21:44 PM »

Thanks Kenzo1979. I’ll let you know what I find.
There are 3 fuses under the seat and they look to be still good. But it there an additional fuse any where else on the bike? If so, can you point to it on the pic?

Kenzo1979 · « **Reply #22 on:** November 02, 2021, 05:44:36 PM »

Nope, should be 3: main 15A, headlight 8A and tail light 5A. Check with the meter for continuity. If you’re battery is connected and you’ve confirmed with a meter that the batt has 12+ V, then you can keep tracing that 12V through the system. Make sure that battery negative has a good ground to the frame. After you verify voltage at the battery terminals, go to the main fuse (DMM on VDC: neg lead on frame ground/Batt negative , pos lead on one side of the fuse, then the other side). Battery + will also go to your rectifier and your starter magnetic switch (solenoid). Past the fuse, if the fuse is good, it goes to the ignition key switch, when the switch is in normal ON position, you will now have 12VDC on all the black wires and the other 2 fuses brown and brown/white. These colors are based on original wire harness. Again, I can’t see everything the PO did. You’ll need to trace the battery voltage through the wiring diagram.

http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb550/technical_reference/WD550C.jpg

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Stev-o · « **Reply #23 on:** November 03, 2021, 08:46:34 AM »

Quote from: Honigsl on November 02, 2021, 05:21:44 PM

There are 3 fuses under the seat and they look to be still good.

A visual "look" to check fuses is not a proper check, use an ohmmeter [multimeter] to properly check them.

As Kenzo mentioned, your electrical system has been modified making it more difficult to trouble shoot issues. Did it run when you bought it?

Honigsl · « **Reply #24 on:** November 03, 2021, 09:25:21 AM »

yes, the PO rode the bike out to meet me...I checked the voltage on the current battery last night and read 12.4 V, so the battery isn't the issue. It's either the connections to the battery (because the F1 terminals are the worst) or a short in the circuit. If i find that a fuse has blown, i would imagine this would happen again if the underlying issue isn't addressed. correct?

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Author Topic: 74 CB550 -no power (Read 3122 times)