Topic: Is this a concern? Engine stud threaded out fairly far......

[rocs]

Hoping you guys can help me understand the situation im in. My brother is building his first bike and brought it over to my house to rewire all the electronics etc. While going over the bike i noticed a engine stud was threaded out pretty far and missing the bolt. I got a replacement bolt but its bothering me how far this stud is threaded out. I tried putting two nuts on it and using one to work against the other to thread the stud down but i didn't have enough meat to get it working.

Is there anything else i can do here? Assuming this should be put in its correct place before going any further here...

[Flyin900]

That doesn't look right for sure. If you could use a cap nut with a closed top and build up the inner cap section with something solid to stop the threaded rod from going into the cap nut further than say 3 threads before bottoming, then hopefully you could rethread that stud back down correctly into the case.
Getting the cap nut off would be the next issue though. 

[calj737]

Tack weld 3 or 4 nuts together, not while on the stud. Offset them in their thread timing. This will allow only the bottom one to thread onto the stud, the next will “lock” the stud so you can then use a socket to turn the stud in.  Afterwards, unwind the stud stack, install a correct washer and nut.

Simple. (I’d stack 3 nuts to insure sufficient leverage to turn the stud in.)

[Don R]

 A long nut with a set screw. Like a rocker arm adjuster nut on a V8.

[scottly]

DO NOT try to force the stud to thread deeper into the case!!! Studs sometimes have different thread lengths on the ends. The end with longer threads generally goes down, into the soft aluminum case for more thread engagement, while the top of the stud has a shorter length, as a steel nut is stronger.

[HondaMan]

DO NOT try to force the stud to thread deeper into the case!!! Studs sometimes have different thread lengths on the ends. The end with longer threads generally goes down, into the soft aluminum case for more thread engagement, while the top of the stud has a shorter length, as a steel nut is stronger.

I'm with Scottly on this one: it appears that the stud was installed upside-down! The end that goes into the cases has more threads on it so it can hold more torque.

[Kevnz]

I agree with Scottly; it may be that the stud is not fully seated OR it may be an incorrect stud. You might be better off removing it entirely, if you can, to establish which of the  two cases it is. Looks like the front studs are different to the rear ones; perhaps a PO got them reversed.

[rocs]

Thanks for the replies. How can I correct this all? pull the engine?

[scottly]

Can you double-nut the stud and try to back it out?

[bryanj]

You can pull head and cylinders in the frame on that bike

[Tim2005]

There looks to be enough clearance around it to fit a stud remover socket onto it, one of this type: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233340606311

[bryanj]

Those studs on the 500/550 have a nasty habit of shearing off when you try and undo one, maybe that has happened and the po did not get all the old one out, there are also two different lengths of stud used

[Don R]

 In light of the down side of removing it, you might want to check the torque and ignore it until some day when you take it apart for something else.