Topic: Base and head gaskets - What sealant? (if any)

[timtune]

Getting ready to install the jugs and head on my 750. Beyond new base and head gaskets should I be adding silicone as well?

In the past I think I just applied a thin layer of anti-sieze to all the gaskets to allow for easier separation later. I've heard some use a thin smeer of grease.

Any recomendations?

Thanks

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

NO!! Go on dry.

[PeWe]

Honda light green stock base gasket is easier to remove next time.
Same with their gaskets for engine covers. No problem to remove cover and reuse gasket again.
 Honda gaskets have good fit, the cheaper ones not.
Holes needs to be cut to fit. Valve cover has most imperfections.

Marks on cover seal surface can be grinded scratch free and flat on a large sanding paper grit 240, finalize with 400.
I have cheap A4 size I glue on a flat thick board. Glue will not have time to dry completely. Spray glue. Clean with acetone.

[Don R]

 On occasion I've used spray contact adhesive on the cover side and chap stick on the engine side, (Not head gaskets)

[Translations]

Hylomar spray works well for me.

[timtune]

NO!! Go on dry.

Is that for both base and head?

[PeWe]

NO!! Go on dry.

Is that for both base and head?

Standard gaskets dry...

I have added a very, very thin layer of high temp silicone when reusing RCS base gasket where the viton rubber has fallen off.
This is a steel gasket covered with viton rubber.

MLS head gasket can also be reused if tighten properly, 21-22ft lb, rigid HD studs. I have not tested yet, but Loctite 3020 spray should work to renew the surface. I'll might test when I do not have a new gasket. That spray can give a too rich wet spray pattern, another nozzle would be better for thinner layer.

[BenelliSEI]

I often put a very light (almost none) coat of Hondabond on one side of cover gaskets. Then install them lightly. Next day, I smear a drop of motor oil on the engine side of the gasket, before tightening down. This allows for several removals without damage, and they work perfectly well for several rounds.

Nothing on head gaskets. A really good engine builder I knew always sprayed head gaskets with a light coat of cheap, silver exhaust “heat paint”. He swore it allowed easy tear downs, with almost no cleanup.  Seemed to work for him. I don’t.

[PeWe]

The most important thing is to retighten the head nuts after 24 hours.
I usually try with same torque to see if nuts will move. If they will I just tighten all that way.

Then do another round another day after, from middle and out, loosen 1/8 turn, righten direct with correct torque. I have 2 tools for it.

MLS with RCS base gasket just need one retorque. Loosen 1/8 turn+ tighten direct.
These gaskets must have HD studs and tighten min 20-22 ft lb.
 I tried lower below 20 and it did not work well. It started to drink loads of oil. It took long time to clean the head. Had to remove all EX valves and brush the ports. Plus the chambers. After that closer to 22ft lb (29 Nm)

The later Cometic fiber headgasket I have used recently was harder and compressed less.