Topic: Wiseco Piston 65mm Ring Set - Doesn't Fit

[Ellz10]

So I've got Forged Wiseco Pistons 65mm along with the 2559XC Ring Set. I installed the ring set correctly with everything placed accordingly and go to make sure it slides in and it is WAY off. These rings are just not right. I even took the Top ring and 2nd ring off to see if the piston would go in then, and it still won't even slide in with just the oil ring expander and both oil rails. I've measure my bore and yes it is 65mm in every cylinder.

As you can see in the photo, they're sticking so far out its ridiculous. Anyone know the correct ring set for these? I got these from Ken at Cycle X when he did all of the motor work.

[scunny]

take the rings. put them in the bore. measure the end gap.

[Ellz10]

take the rings. put them in the bore. measure the end gap.

Already did. Seemed fine. Now it isn't.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,188546.0.html

[thep1pe]

are the ring grooves on the piston correct. if they are not deep enough the ring binds on it and doesn't allow them to
compress.

[Ellz10]

are the ring grooves on the piston correct. if they are not deep enough the ring binds on it and doesn't allow them to
compress.

I'm guessing not as you can see in the photo when I'm holding it sideways the rings are way out. But that's the 65mm ring set from Wiseco so I'm not sure what to do.

Should I just put normal size piston rings in?

[Alan F.]

Not sure I'm understanding correctly.

1. Rings fit in the bore, end gaps are good.
2. Pistons fit the bore.

But you can't compress the rings on the piston to fit the bore.

Are you able to measure the width of rings and ring lands to determine the difference?

Is there any taper left inside the bottom on the sleeves at 65mm?

[Ellz10]

Not sure I'm understanding correctly.

1. Rings fit in the bore, end gaps are good.
2. Pistons fit the bore.

But you can't compress the rings to fit the bore.

Are you able to measure the width of rings and ring lands to determine the difference?

Alan, suffice it to say that I am too damn embarrassed to admit where I went wrong and the step I missed/didn't even think about. 

I know what to do now.

Thank you fellas.

[69cb750]

If the pistons fit the bore and the rings have correct end gap in bore then you have incorrect rings.
Report problem where you bought parts.

[Tracksnblades1]

Don’t be too embarrassed to ask for help…
Everyone who’s been knee deep in engine internals had someone looking over them at sometime. I had a granddad and uncle that would always ask the right question at the right time..so you wouldn’t  *#*# up..🎯

[Alan F.]

So you're all set then, that's good to hear.
Maybe later on you'll share what the solution was, after you've got a few thousand miles on it.

[newday777]

Not sure I'm understanding correctly.

1. Rings fit in the bore, end gaps are good.
2. Pistons fit the bore.

But you can't compress the rings to fit the bore.

Are you able to measure the width of rings and ring lands to determine the difference?

Alan, suffice it to say that I am too damn embarrassed to admit where I went wrong and the step I missed/didn't even think about. 

I know what to do now.

Thank you fellas.

Then share what you missed doing so others can learn from it. That is why forums exist. If you fail to inform of your mistakes you don't pay it forward. Don't be a one way blood sucker.

[Don R]

 The guy that bored mine re-tapered the bottom and the rings almost slid themselves back in. 

[Alan F.]

That's cool Don, I'd heard taper will go away with big overbores, but I don't know how big that'd be. Minimum wall thickness and all consided, there must be a known limit to allow taper.

I think order of assembly was the issue, when I mentioned taper at the cylinder bottoms it all seemed to click (from the way I perceived what I read). Perhaps thinking was that rings needed to compress and pistons insert from top cylinder deck?
Once taper was mentioned, correct order of assembly may have been realized and all proceeded as Mr. Honda intended from that moment.

I've been stuck for months grasping at a concept, when the light of understanding breaks the horizon it's a good day.

[Ellz10]

Don’t be too embarrassed to ask for help…
Everyone who’s been knee deep in engine internals had someone looking over them at sometime. I had a granddad and uncle that would always ask the right question at the right time..so you wouldn’t  *#*# up..🎯

I've never been too embarrassed to ask for help, just embarrassed when I realize what an idiot I look like haha!

So you're all set then, that's good to hear.
Maybe later on you'll share what the solution was, after you've got a few thousand miles on it.

Not sure I'm understanding correctly.

1. Rings fit in the bore, end gaps are good.
2. Pistons fit the bore.

But you can't compress the rings to fit the bore.

Are you able to measure the width of rings and ring lands to determine the difference?

Alan, suffice it to say that I am too damn embarrassed to admit where I went wrong and the step I missed/didn't even think about. 

I know what to do now.

Thank you fellas.

Then share what you missed doing so others can learn from it. That is why forums exist. If you fail to inform of your mistakes you don't pay it forward. Don't be a one way blood sucker.

So what I failed to realize, being a first time engine rebuilder, is that the rings need to be compressed to fit inside the cylinders. I never understood the inner workings of pistons and how they work. I'm glad I do now, although at the expense of my dignity 

[Alan F.]

Dignity Bah!

When I picked up my CB160 on Friday I tried to turn the kick start to see if the engine was stuck, it seemed to be and the seller felt really bad about it since he'd stored it so carefully 30 years ago after beating the crap out of it for 25 years...
Well I was asked to copy the build thread here and in discussion with RAFster122s.... I realized that I never checked what gear it was in, so I may get lucky and find that it's not stuck after all.

Everyone forgets or misunderstands something now and then, those items will be the easiest to remember in the future after the small bits of personal drama associated with them.

You're doing fine.

[Don R]

 Rock on brother, let us know how it goes be careful with the oil rings if they are the thin ones.

[PeWe]

XC rings are OK, not that thin oil rails as the XA which need really careful assembly.
I found out after pinching one that I should have grinded the inner ends to a round radius to avoid the rails too hook into the expander.

I did that on the thicker XC rings after that just for sure.
Below the XC  and flimsy XA ring sets.
 

[Medyo Bastos]

Early lower rings are taller


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ellz10]

Dignity Bah!

When I picked up my CB160 on Friday I tried to turn the kick start to see if the engine was stuck, it seemed to be and the seller felt really bad about it since he'd stored it so carefully 30 years ago after beating the crap out of it for 25 years...
Well I was asked to copy the build thread here and in discussion with RAFster122s.... I realized that I never checked what gear it was in, so I may get lucky and find that it's not stuck after all.

Everyone forgets or misunderstands something now and then, those items will be the easiest to remember in the future after the small bits of personal drama associated with them.

You're doing fine.

Oh boy, that sounds like something I would do and get irritated about it, hah!

I appreciate the kind words, I really do. It's been quite the rollercoaster thus far, but it's been exciting to say the least!

I definitely will never forget how to install pistons!

Rock on brother, let us know how it goes be careful with the oil rings if they are the thin ones.

I most definitely will! They're the thicker ones, but I'll be careful nevertheless!

[Alan F.]

I'm going through the learning curve with Evaporust right now on a set of original 1965 wheels on my CB160, everyone is sharing their favorite mechanical rust removal methods but I had my mind set on passively soaking them. Well I couldn't stand the waiting and slow progress any more and broke out the wire brush to give the tire side of the rims a good beating. The Evaporust soak will probably work much faster now.

[Ellz10]

I'm going through the learning curve with Evaporust right now on a set of original 1965 wheels on my CB160, everyone is sharing their favorite mechanical rust removal methods but I had my mind set on passively soaking them. Well I couldn't stand the waiting and slow progress any more and broke out the wire brush to give the tire side of the rims a good beating. The Evaporust soak will probably work much faster now.

I swear by Evaporust! I bought 5 gallons and filled the tank on my '77 K7, let it sit for 72 hours, drained it, forced air into it to dry out, then swirled some rust preventative around, drained that, then threw a gallon of gas in there, swirled it around and then drained that as well. Couldn't have worked out better. Got rid of all the gunk, rust and particles, and now it's back to bare metal with no flash rust. Super happy with Evaporust. I'll definitely be using it for other parts and things.

[RAFster122s]

One thing with gas tanks is getting rid of any varnish first...old regular gas would varnish as it broke down and evaporated down...
Once you get past that the Evaporust can work...

[Ellz10]

One thing with gas tanks is getting rid of any varnish first...old regular gas would varnish as it broke down and evaporated down...
Once you get past that the Evaporust can work...

Ooo I didn't even think about that. I'm grateful my tank had been empty for years then!