Topic: Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160 build.

[MauiK3]

That tire tool looks great, almost too easy. When I mount tires I always need to keep a spoon holding what's already on the bead so it doesn't follow me and come out. That tool seems to eliminate that. I may need to get one.

[Alan F.]

Here's the guy who made his own, seems he's pretty much nailed it.

And the link for the Knock-Off tool:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/313618981128?hash=item490525e108:g:gJoAAOSwuP1hPp8N


Sounds like you need a Bead Buddy or two. You can get them from Motion Pro for ~$17 but I think I'll order 2 from the factory. https://www.ebay.com/itm/113591236358?hash=item1a7290b706:g:PlEAAOSwMflcSIuK

[Alan F.]

Just bought a couple of bead buddies, a valve stem fish tool and that knockoff no-pinch tool. I can use it on every bike I own and it'll pay for itself in no time if I don't pinch any tubes...right?

[grcamna2]

Thank you, I do see these on eBay from a few manufacturers, looks like a new bunch of tools I need to buy. I like tools.

Anyone ever heard of the Baja No Pinch tire Tool? There are tons of YouTube videos on these, I found one where a guy had tabbed up his own and it works perfectly, and there is a knock-off brand on eBay for about half the Baja price. I'm tempted to get that one.

Alan,the curved end of the tire levers I uploaded the pic of are used for installing the tires;that curve makes it a 'no sweat' operation and it increases the leverage of the tire lever.I really like that Murphy's tire bead lube also:it keeps the rubber beads nice and they slide right over the rim edge.
Make sure to heat the tire up before installation,and use your knees to keep the section of tire down while you're levering.I recommend adding just a little bit air to the tubes when installing them,otherwise it will be difficult on the installation of your tire.

I use to struggle with flat tire levers or spoons and ended-up chopping pieces of rubber off the beads.. 

[Alan F.]

This afternoon I laced the wheels back to their hubs, all of the spokes passed my visual inspection after they came out of the evaporust, and there are two new spokes in the mix too. I shuffled front and rear spokes and made sure only one new spoke went on each wheel. It took a few tries but they're both correct.

And I took the tank sides out of the Evaporust, they look ok from a few feet away, here are some closeups:

[grcamna2]

Those tank sides are useable now.
I like the size of the drum brakes on your CB160 

[Alan F.]

Thanks, I think both are 180mm, front is 2LS but rear is 1LS, time to shop for brake shoes!

[Alan F.]

Does anyone know where to find modern compound brake shoes for this thing? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot ? ??

You'd think with the number of this model on the track that there'd be more than NOS brake shoes available.

I'm sorely tempted to just wash off the existing brake shoes (from the late 80's, sintered metallic by the look) and just wear them out their remaining 60%.

Can anyone dissuade me with a better option?

The rear brake shoes on both my 73 CB750K and my 81 CM400C delaminated from their backing with a sideways tap from a screwdriver handle, I don't trust old brake shoes and never will. But with 80's manufacturing technology are these (probably late) 80's brake shoes much better than those made earlier or later?

[grcamna2]

Does anyone know where to find modern compound brake shoes for this thing? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot ? ??

You'd think with the number of this model on the track that there'd be more than NOS brake shoes available.

I'm sorely tempted to just wash off the existing brake shoes (from the late 80's, sintered metallic by the look) and just wear them out their remaining 60%.

Can anyone dissuade me with a better option?

The rear brake shoes on both my 73 CB750K and my 81 CM400C delaminated from their backing with a sideways tap from a screwdriver handle, I don't trust old brake shoes and never will. But with 80's manufacturing technology are these (probably late) 80's brake shoes much better than those made earlier or later?

Alan,the benefit of quality(sintered metallic)brake shoes which are already 'mated' to each position in your brake hubs.. is they'll probably stop better than new shoes which would needed to be 'arced in' to make them fit your drums.
Do you have any pics ?

[Alan F.]

I don't have any pics now sorry, but I do agree that worn in and correctly arced brake shoes will have full contact between the brake shoes and the drums resulting in optimal braking performance.

I'm reluctant to use the shoes that the bike came with just due to age, and in all honesty I can re-arc a set of new shoes by rubber cementing sheets of 240 grit sandpaper to my drum surfaces and rocking the new brakes back & forth too correct their contact surfaces against the drum surfaces.

And I agree that after roughing up the drum surfaces, and roughing up the shoe surfaces with 240 grit paper  that I'll be on the road to good brake performance.

Rubber cement is easily enough removed.

When I've had the brake backing plates and all of their hardware through the Evaporust treatment I'll have to draw some lines on the existing shoes with a pencil then go through the adjustment routine. Please stay tuned for those results...

[grcamna2]

I don't have any pics now sorry, but I do agree that worn in and correctly arced brake shoes will have full contact between the brake shoes and the drums resulting in optimal braking performance.

I'm reluctant to use the shoes that the bike came with just due to age, and in all honesty I can re-arc a set of new shoes by rubber cementing sheets of 240 grit sandpaper to my drum surfaces and rocking the new brakes back & forth too correct their contact surfaces against the drum surfaces.

And I agree that after roughing up the drum surfaces, and roughing up the shoe surfaces with 240 grit paper  that I'll be on the road to good brake performance.

Rubber cement is easily enough removed.

When I've had the brake backing plates and all of their hardware through the Evaporust treatment I'll have to draw some lines on the existing shoes with a pencil then go through the adjustment routine. Please stay tuned for those results...

Alan,Do you remember in what position each one of those 4) brake shoes were:their original position ?

[Alan F.]

I haven't disturbed the brake backing plates yet, so yes I know their original, as received from the PO positions.

Whatcha thinking Bill?

[grcamna2]

I haven't disturbed the brake backing plates yet, so yes I know their original, as received from the PO positions.

Whatcha thinking Bill?

I imagine you can mark the shoes?

[seanbarney41]

Does anyone know where to find modern compound brake shoes for this thing? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot ? ??

You'd think with the number of this model on the track that there'd be more than NOS brake shoes available.

I'm sorely tempted to just wash off the existing brake shoes (from the late 80's, sintered metallic by the look) and just wear them out their remaining 60%.

Can anyone dissuade me with a better option?

The rear brake shoes on both my 73 CB750K and my 81 CM400C delaminated from their backing with a sideways tap from a screwdriver handle, I don't trust old brake shoes and never will. But with 80's manufacturing technology are these (probably late) 80's brake shoes much better than those made earlier or later?

what makes you think cb160 racers ever touch a brake lever? lol cb160 is the ultimate slow bike ridden fast.  One touch of the brakes will blow your whole lap time.  No seriously, you could try pming forum member Kickstart and ask where to get brakes.  He is not on here much anymore but he races a cb160 and a cb750 and he may still have his email notifications active.  And he is one of the nicest motorcyclists I have ever met.

[RAFster122s]

I think www.vintagebrake.com would be your best source for new shoes. A go to for racers and vintage bike owners for new brake shoes or relining their old shoes.

Unless your old shoes are showing signs of coming apart I would stick with them and just inspect them every other oil change to keep tabs on them. Just treat them like they have asbestos in them...last of the good stuff. Lung protection required when working with them, even if just pulling the shoes or drums apart.
Stuff that gets in your lungs like asbestos doesn't come out.

[PeWe]

Many years ago we had shops that resurfaced brake shoes.

I bought an old CB750 brake plate with old stock shoes in good shape. Those work really well. Maybe the good old well working asbestos type?

Newer shoes not that good, brake a little very soon followed by locked wheel.

Metal flakes in shoes will wear the drum quicker?
I avoid to use rear brake that much and wear the hub that can not get new lining.

[Alan F.]

I will mark the shoes before removing them, good point Bill.

Thanks Sean, I'll seevif i can reach him and a few others I've seen on other forums, maybe I can get some info.

RAFster122s, I couldn't find anything at vintagebrake.com either, I'm becoming less and less surprised as the search continues. I will use proper precautions when handling NOS brake pads if I get any, thank you for the reminder.

PeWe thanks for the tip on the better braking from the old style asbestos shoes, I didn't know that.
I'm not worried about wearing out the drums, I'll pick up some spare wheels or just hubs if I find a good deal.

[PeWe]

I got the tip from an old car repair guy that praised the old good asbestos pads/shoes with longer life.

But the dust when taking the brake apart must be handled with care.

I checked my garage where I have another brake plate I found with good old HM marked shoes that will work for some time more.
I'll give that plate a try at next wheel+tire change. Hopefully as good brake as my K2 got with same kind of old shoes.

[Alan F.]

My Vevor (no pinch knockoff) tire tool arrived just now, so less than 2 days order to delivery, very nice.
The box was beaten up to the point that I took a dozen pictures before opening it.

The tool looks ok, finish is zinc plate with some oxidization, it probably spent lots of time in an unheated warehouse. It includes axle adaptors for 25, 20, 17 & 15mm. The pinion gear assembles simply and the one pivot bolt screws in without binding. I'll post pictures of it after truing these wheels.

[MauiK3]

How will you deal with the rust?

[Alan F.]

What rust, on the tire tool? It's just white zinc oxide, I'll either leave it or more likely I'll rub it down with a rag and some wd-40. No biggie.

[Alan F.]

Rear wheel is trued, I'll have a better look at it tomorrow to make sure, and I'll give the back of each nipple a sharp tap with a hammer and brass drift the way 754 told us to do to help bed the nipples to the rim. Thanks again Frank!

Front wheel spoke nipples are finger tight, I'll true it up tomorrow.

Harbor Freight truing stand, beer can with a cardboard coaster and the tab pointing up for an indicator. Spec is 1mm axial and radial with no offset. The weld on these rims is pretty bumpy but I can probably get them as good or better than the factory did when they were new. Spokes are all tight and all ring the same note when struck.

[Alan F.]

I just put a batch of parts into the remaining evaporust, some will come out after 6-8 hours and some will stay until tomorrow.

[RAFster122s]

As it ages and gets dirty it takes longer to derust parts... especially when it approaches end of life.
Not dark brown yet, just thought I'd mention that...

[grcamna2]

Alan,have you been applying that 'CorrosionX' product to the parts? how does it look after you use that ?