Topic: Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160 build.

[MauiK3]

This one will be great to see run!

[Alan F.]

Thanks MauiK3, I can say the same for your Z1, very exciting to follow.

[Alan F.]

I went out to storage today to pick up fenders, rear axle & spacers, handlebars and strip whatever else I could from the non-roller to bring home and soak.

I was hoping to get the forks off but that looks like a job for another day. I sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep on all of the fasteners and areas where parts seperate, I'll try back later on. Is there a trick to getting these steering dampers off? I didn't want to damage the knob so I just sprayed everything down and left it for now.

I'll have a look at the parts that are soaking, maybe some are presentable again and I can show them off....

[Terry in Australia]

If the steering damper is like the ones on my Suzuki T350 and T500's (a friction damper with a rod that goes down thru the steering stem) there's usually a cotter pin that goes thru the rod under the bottom triple that needs to come out before you can (carefully) unwind the knob and withdraw the rod. Don't try to monster it out, or you'll bust it, if there are threads protruding below the nut under the bottom triple, clean them with a wire brush and use some of that deep creep penetrant to help unwind the rod.

[Alan F.]

Thanks Terry, seems I did as you'd do again. I'm really hoping not to break off that tension knob. I moved the steering left to right a few times and yeah it's all got to come apart. Fun is.

Now some more pics of (mostly) rust free parts. When I take them out of the Evaporust I let them air dry like the label says, to help flash rust from happening. I'm not sure if I need to but I am. Later when I'm available again I give them a hot water rinse to get all of that off, dry them by hand and give them a coat of CorrosionX mostly with what's already been absorbed in a few paper towels but I add a few drops for heavily pitted areas to get good coverage. It'll also spread on its own which is really nice, I'll buff the excess off in a few days.

[Alan F.]

And here's a look at the footpegs stay, looks like 'Ol Bob was into parking this thing on its sides and staggering away on foot. Maybe he got his bike kicked over a lot? Not sure but look at these things, are those welded on reinforcements factory? I wonder how many times they got straightened before he gave up trying?

[grcamna2]

Oh kay    I see what that looks like Alan.
I would adapt a pr. of stock CB350 driver footpegs to that one;cut the folding footpeg mounts/with pegs off the CB350 footpeg bar and mount that CB160 footpeg bar onto your bike as is then hold the CB350 pegs/mounts up to the side of your bike and take some measurements.This process will take some careful measuring/matching-up to get it just right.I'm not a welder so I had to keep taking mine over to a welder.I prefer folding footpegs myself.

[Alan F.]

I'll think about it, but I'll look for another part to cut up instead of messing with these. Good karma keeping all of these parts together I think.

[jgger]

I was thinking CL pegs might bolt right up...........then realized you need up pipes for those. Ill show myself to the door!🤐

[Alan F.]

It's all good, I need to think about why and why not too. If there's a solution it'll show up. I've got a few slabs of aluminum that would make great footpeg stays and would be ok with folding pegs too.

But I'm not gonna think up any side projects for this thing! That's rule #1 and it's why it takes me forever to finish anything. No tangents.

[grcamna2]

I'll think about it, but I'll look for another part to cut up instead of messing with these. Good karma keeping all of these parts together I think.

That's what I did with the bike I swapped from 'fixed' to 'folding footpegs':I purchased a stock footpeg bar off Ebay and modified it to fit folding pegs.

[RAFster122s]

What do guys who vintage race the cb160 do? Most racing bikes avoid fixed pegs for their propensity to cause major carnage if the bike wrecks sliding into the grass and or gravel.

[Terry in Australia]

Just bolt them back on get a big piece of pipe and bend those suckers back into place mate, and they'll be good for another 50-odd years...

[Alan F.]

I was thinking about bolting them back and bending them but I'm worried about putting that much stress on the mounting studs in the lower case half.

I only see 2 of these bars on eBay right now, one is ~$75 shipped and the other is NOS at $250 so I guess I'll do some waiting and watching, none in eBay stores strangely enough.

Racers are probably using rear sets with folding pegs and ditched this bar already. I should post in parts wanted and maybe get lucky.

I wonder if Bob used to park this bike with one foot peg against the curb? There is no side stand, only center stand. And there aren't any big dents anywhere on it, just a few tiny ones that you can only see when the light is right. Handlebars do show some scars at the ends.

[Alan F.]

Ok some more clean parts with a coat of CorrosionX:
The head pipes were putting out lots of red rusty rinsewater so after a good long drip dry I gave them 6 pumps of CorrosionX inside their head ends.

[Alan F.]

I gave the front & rear fender a hot water rinse, this is how they came out:

[grcamna2]

That front one has some bends to the back end of it:it needs a little re-forming.
The rear one looks nice 

[Alan F.]

Yeah i'll bash that out. Seems like a lot of chain lube under the rear eh? I better check the photos for a chaingaurd!

Edit: chaingaurd is present.

[grcamna2]

Yeah i'll bash that out. Seems like a lot of chain lube under the rear eh? I better check the photos for a chaingaurd!

Edit: chaingaurd is present.

"bash" is a word I would use on the rear quarter panel of a 57' Buick,with a big hammer 
I know you'll gently tap and massage that front fender back into shape because you're a gentle,careful restorer. Lol 

How's your Evaporust treatment strength holding up Alan ?   Great work all the way around.

[Alan F.]

Thank you, and yeah I'll hammer the dents out as gently as possible.

I think the Evaporust is doing alright, I've got the left side of the handlebar submerged now (which will take a lot of repositioning to finish) the toolbox (in its ~8th position) the rear view mirror that came with the bike, rusted to hell but the glass is wonderful, the chain adjusters for their 2nd day soaking, and I forget what else. I haven't taken the brake plates apart yet either.

I might try wrapping the fenders (tops only) with Evaporust soaked paper towels covered in aluminum foil to keep evaporation down. Maybe the same with the tank exterior, eventually.

[RAFster122s]

Plastic wrap will work to slow evaporation down without any possible changes to solution because the plastic will be non reactive.

[Alan F.]

Very true, aluminum is also non-reactive to Evaporust and this trick is in the instructions or on their website, I forget. BUT I agree and when I started all of this I bought a roll of plastic wrap that it seemed I wouldn't use. So thanks for finding a use for it, I'd forgotten about it until now! Cheers!

[Alan F.]

Some new bits arrived. I've got my speedometer drive seal from eBay, and from Scrambler Cycle I've got a full gasket kit, 2 carb kits, petcock rebuild kit and some reproduction stock grips.

[grcamna2]

I love getting parts for vintage Honda's in the mail 
Alan,I have an NOS replacement headlight bulb for the CB160 made by Beck Arnley in case the orig. one you have doesn't function.

I purchased it originally to use as a spare headlight bulb for my CB125S and had initially fit it into the spare headlight rim I have in preparation of that;this has been sitting in my storage that way mounted into that headlight rim until just recently when I removed it to offer it to you.This bulb has never been connected to power yet:both filaments are intact.

[Alan F.]

Edit: I picked this headlight up from Bill, should be here in a few days.

That sounds good Bill, I'll PM you, thanks!
Edit: looks good!

You have to link hosted photos in PMs, no provision to upload to the forum in the PM options.