Topic: Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160 build.

[RAFster122s]

Curious with the highway robbery of $200 for one filter on ebay what a set of filters cost from more reasonable sources?

[Alan F.]

They actually arrived about an hour ago, very well packed and in good used condition.

 From the 'original parts too good to throw away' tub of a west coast race bike the pair were $50 + $25 shipping. I couldnt buy one for that so I ponied up quickly. I'll have to stick the rubber back onto one but that'll be fine, clamps included too.

[Alan F.]

I took a ride by storage earlier this afternoon to spend some quality time with that swingarm pivot, my 1/2" drive manual impact and a 2-1/2 lb. hammer. No new results to report. I applied more Seafoam deep creep and will try to get out there again soon. The center section of the pivot bolt seems to be rusted in place inside the frame tube, I'm unable to turn the bolt or the nut at present.

I'm considering drilling that center tube for a grease fitting before I reassemble, does anyone else think that'd be a good idea? It'd sure make it easier to get some Deep Creep in there where it's needed.

[RAFster122s]

Is there space around the pivot bolt? If not you would not be able to put the grease where it is needed to do any good after reassembly.

Had a car where we had to drive the pivot arm bolt out with a sledgehammer and drift. Destroyed the bolt of course… lots of heat from Oxi-acetylene torch too and penetrating oil…
Both ivory bolts actually were driven out and replaced…probably 20 year old or 30 year old part at the time…mid60 car.

[Alan F.]

Well, how thick is a film of grease? I always grease axles before I put them through the wheel bearings and center collar and those are a close fit too, they come out years later still slightly greasy and rust free. So I'll say yes there is some space around the pivot bolt to work with.

I just took some hardware and the rear brake stay out of the murky Evaporust, after less than 24 hours they're perfect, this stuff is still working fine on small parts. I carefully gave them all a coat of CorrosionX and set them on a paper towel like the other stuff earlier.
I repositioned the battery box which is coming along wonderfully, and repositioned the center stand too. It's not coming along very well, I'll wire brush it again tomorrow and put it back in.
And I stripped down the rear brake carrier and put the arm, spring, cam and shoe springs in for an overnight soak. The fork ears went in too, I'll flip them over tomorrow.

I'll clean up the rear brake shoes and brake plate under running water tomorrow and give the surface a good scrub with toothpaste and a toothbrush like I did with the wheel hubs.

[Alan F.]

I took some stuff out of the remaining Evaporust tonight, it's still working very well on small parts. I put the rear brake arm back in, flipped the fork ears over and resituated the center stand again, I'll check on it Sunday.

[Alan F.]

I've been thinking quite a bit about these fenders and air cleaner covers, they play a pretty large role in the overall look of the bike. I've decided to respray them rather than keep their scratches, dents and former rust spots as they are. I've ordered a couple cans of genuine Honda 08707-NH35M TUP CLOUD SILVER and will wait for warmer weather to wash off the protective coat of dried Evaporust and begin prepping these parts.

[grcamna2]

I've been thinking quite a bit about these fenders and air cleaner covers, they play a pretty large role in the overall look of the bike. I've decided to respray them rather than keep their scratches, dents and former rust spots as they are. I've ordered a couple cans of genuine Honda 08707-NH35M TUP CLOUD SILVER and will wait for warmer weather to wash off the protective coat of dried Evaporust and begin prepping these parts.

That seems like a good plan;it will work to offset the rest of the bike.
I hope you repaint it all  but then it won't look as original patina..

[Terry in Australia]

Yep, it's only original once, even if you use genuine Honda paint. Still, if the original paint looks like sh1t, why not?

[Alan F.]

Yeah, maybe I'll rub out the fenders as I'd intended first and put it to a vote. I don't need to wait for warm weather for that.

[RAFster122s]

I look at like this, lots of nicer original bikes out there and most of mine have have various touch ups or repaints before me, so I am free to be creative if I want to...

[grcamna2]

Alan,My vote?: paint 

[Alan F.]

Thanks Bill. I'm thinking of looking around for a set of rough fenders so I can keep the originals and have a painted set. If anyone happens to have a dent free CB160 front or rear fender....dent free and rust hole free are the only concerns.

[Terry in Australia]

Paint them Alan, looks like they've been re-painted or touched up along the journey, so with the added rust and crud, not attractive at all.......

[MauiK3]

I vote paint as well.

[grcamna2]

I think the Evaporust has worked wonders over the received condition of your unpainted and chrome parts 

[Alan F.]

Thanks Bill, it has and I've been fairly pleased for the most part. I'm shopping for a 2nd set of fenders now.

[Alan F.]

Between the day job becoming suddenly busy, and the cold weather hitting us hard, I haven't accomplished much of anything on this bike lately. The center stand is still soaking though, and I have everything I need to clean up the tank, rebuild the petcock and recover the seat.

I'm trying not to start any side projects for this bike. I've drawn up plans for an insulated cooler converted into a de-rusting wash cabinet, this will come in handy in the future. And I've decided on another project that I'll be undertaking for this bike after it's all back together and running. Don't bash me for it but I think I want to build a fiberglass dustbin fairing for it. After reading this guy's sidecar build: https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/led-sled-sidecar-project.26096 and this bit of history: http://yorkshireferret.blogspot.com/2016/01/a-lucky-find-return-of-potts-dustbin.html?m=1
I'm inspired by the simplicity, low cost, low weight, high materials availability and I just want to give it a go.

[RAFster122s]

Alan, this is a street bike, right? So you are going to do a headlamp incorporated into the rev counter/speedo mount and steering stops? In your mounting frame?
Are you going to do a styrofoam (blue Dow foam sands best (extruded polystyrene... Or Pink Owens-Corning...
Form to layup your fiberglass matt?
I like foam sacrificial molds and templates to make it symmetrical when shaping the female mold...

White foam is too difficult to sand without small popcorn chunks popping in some places. After your epoxy has setup you can melt the foam away by using gasoline (little napalm) or you can use drum sander after rasping or cutting away all you can...
Once you for your shape you apply a release or just lay it up on the foam and melt it away or cut and sand it away...

[Alan F.]

Thank you for that enthusiastic reply! yes a street bike, I'd add some clear lexan for the headlight to shine through that would probably also rise up a bit as a windshield. The speedometer is already incorporated into the headlight courtesy of Mr. Honda, no stock rev counter though I may add an electric one eventually. I was planning to use the stock steering stops, or do I misunderstand?

I was thinking of building a buck out of pvc pipe and cover it in two layers of chicken wire like the link I posted. I'd then cover that in paper mache and just lay fiberglass over that in just one or 2 layers at most.

I haven't done any research at all into the subject, fiberglass work is all new to me except what I've seen and heard = not much but a little. If you have any references online or can recommend any books I should read, please feel free to post them here as you think of them.

[grcamna2]

The front fairing is an excellent idea on a small bike 

[Alan F.]

I understand full Dustbin Fairings were used by Law Enforcement in some countries following the FIM ban due to their high degree of weather protection.
I'm thinking that at regular street riding speeds it'll perform very well, it's not as if I'll have issues caused by cross winds while moving at 170mph!

[Alan F.]

Okay, I'll advise everyone not to order anything from Boats.net as it's been over 2 weeks and every day or two I've received an email pushing out their shipping date another day or two. I'm pissed off and I've requested a refund for my order from these idiots.

Is it really too much to ask that an online vendor ACTUALLY HAVE THE STUFF THEY'RE SELLING IN STOCK & READY TO SHIP?

APARENTLY IT IS TOO MUCH TO ASK.

Deadbeat seller, never bother buying from boats.net

I'll have to find rattle cans of Honda Cloud Silver somewhere else.

[seanbarney41]

boats.net is Partzilla.  They do the same as every Honda dealer.  If the part is anywhere in the system, it is listed as available...no guaranties that an actual human being is able to lay hands on it.

[Alan F.]

Thank you for clarifying exactly who they are. Hopefully I'll see a refund and can order elsewhere.