Topic: Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160 build.

[grcamna2]

I hope you get through to a live individual with them Alan;Partzilla does take a while.

[Alan F.]

Yeah I've dealt with them before for 750 parts in 2020. Hopefully I can get me Honda Cloud Silver by the time weather is warm enough to paint my fenders and air filter covers.

[Alan F.]

In other news I've got a friend into 3D printing that I'll be giving the one of my air filters that did come with my CB160. He'll take measurements and develop a program to 3D print an air filter frame, left and right for CB160 and CL160 that can be printed and covered with filter foam to create useable air filters for future restores of these bikes. Good luck Geltlemen, I hope you find this post by keyword searches. I'll post links to my friend's files when possible.

[Terry in Australia]

Good job Alan, I should get my son to 3D print one for my T500, they're NLA, and the one OEM NOS one I managed to buy has disappeared in the mail.

[grcamna2]

Good job Alan, I should get my son to 3D print one for my T500, they're NLA, and the one OEM NOS one I managed to buy has disappeared in the mail.

The OEM Suzuki T500 air filter you've been patiently waiting for? 
I'm sorry you've had to suffer with those Covid shipping fools Terry.
I know how good they respond with the stock intake tract:much better low-midrange acceleration..

[seanbarney41]

Alan, my shop mate has a pair of what I believe to be useable cb160 air filters and sidecovers...pm me if you are interested and want pictures.

[Alan F.]

Pm sent, thank you.

[Terry in Australia]

Good job Alan, I should get my son to 3D print one for my T500, they're NLA, and the one OEM NOS one I managed to buy has disappeared in the mail.

The OEM Suzuki T500 air filter you've been patiently waiting for? 
I'm sorry you've had to suffer with those Covid shipping fools Terry.
I know how good they respond with the stock intake tract:much better low-midrange acceleration..

Thanks Bill, my T500 works great with the pods and expansion chambers from Titan Performance, maybe because of the port work someone’s done the cylinders that I bought, but I would like the stock filter for if and when I sell it, to go with the stock exhaust.

Incidentally I finally managed to pull the rubber “sock” over the airbox and carbs on my T350, and when I rode it on Sunday, it ran like crap, so I might have to play with the carbs again, I think the stock airbox is making it run rich.

[grcamna2]

Good job Alan, I should get my son to 3D print one for my T500, they're NLA, and the one OEM NOS one I managed to buy has disappeared in the mail.

The OEM Suzuki T500 air filter you've been patiently waiting for? 
I'm sorry you've had to suffer with those Covid shipping fools Terry.
I know how good they respond with the stock intake tract:much better low-midrange acceleration..

Thanks Bill, my T500 works great with the pods and expansion chambers from Titan Performance, maybe because of the port work someone’s done the cylinders that I bought, but I would like the stock filter for if and when I sell it, to go with the stock exhaust.

Incidentally I finally managed to pull the rubber “sock” over the airbox and carbs on my T350, and when I rode it on Sunday, it ran like crap, so I might have to play with the carbs again, I think the stock airbox is making it run rich.

Go to stock jetting and needle clip position?

[Terry in Australia]

To my knowledge that's where it is now mate, I don't remember changing anything.

[grcamna2]

To my knowledge that's where it is now mate, I don't remember changing anything.

Terry,you'll investigate and find out what's up with those carbs.
The plugs will tell the story 

[Terry in Australia]

Yep, and no rush, I need to get the Z1-B sorted and on the road as there's a big "50th anniversary of the Z1" bash in March.

[Alan F.]

2 rattle cans of Honda Cloud Silver arrived today, I hope this is the right stuff.

[grcamna2]

Looks good Alan.

[Alan F.]

Time for an update. Last time I was having trouble loosening the swingarm nut, it seemed like the PO must have tightened it with an air impact instead of replacing the worn bushings, I guess it worked for him, but getting the pivot nut off wasn't going to happen easily. I tried the manual impact, and every wrench I had, no dice it was just rounding off. So today armed with a sharp new flat file I carefully took one side of the nut down to the threads, then easily loosened it with an adjustable wrench. Then after spraying some Deep Creep I removed the brass grease zerk and knocked the pivot bolt in as far as I could with a 2x4 block and 2lb hammer. Then I was able to pull the pivot bolt out while turning it a few degrees in each direction with a wrench. Unfortunately the right hand side pivot collar is frozen to the pivot bolt and I can't get the NOK seal or passenger peg mount loose without removing it. So more Deep Creep and I'll check it in a few days, sprayed some on the swingarm bushings too. Hopefully I can slit them with a hacksaw blade and get them out without a fight.

[grcamna2]

Nice to see an update.
Can you purchase an OEM NOS pivot collar?

[Alan F.]

Thanks Bill!

I honestly haven't looked, but probably. There was a kit of phenolic bushings and collars from Thailand if memory serves, but I never bought not knowing if I'd even get this apart. Time to go shopping I guess.

[Alan F.]

I've been looking at replacement collars and bushings, I'll make my own before I pay those prices. I'll probably make a few sets and list them for sale.

[HondaMan]

Time for an update. Last time I was having trouble loosening the swingarm nut, it seemed like the PO must have tightened it with an air impact instead of replacing the worn bushings, I guess it worked for him, but getting the pivot nut off wasn't going to happen easily. I tried the manual impact, and every wrench I had, no dice it was just rounding off. So today armed with a sharp new flat file I carefully took one side of the nut down to the threads, then easily loosened it with an adjustable wrench. Then after spraying some Deep Creep I removed the brass grease zerk and knocked the pivot bolt in as far as I could with a 2x4 block and 2lb hammer. Then I was able to pull the pivot bolt out while turning it a few degrees in each direction with a wrench. Unfortunately the right hand side pivot collar is frozen to the pivot bolt and I can't get the NOK seal or passenger peg mount loose without removing it. So more Deep Creep and I'll check it in a few days, sprayed some on the swingarm bushings too. Hopefully I can slit them with a hacksaw blade and get them out without a fight.

I remember rebuilding one of those swingarm pivots for someone who sent me the whole frame in a gorgeously-built wooden crate that looked like a suitcase!

[Alan F.]

Impressive woodworking visual. The frame isn't all that big, maybe 40" head to tail? And weighs maybe 25#? Shipping costs these days are probably quite prohibitive.

Once I get that 2nd collar off the pivot bolt I'll clean everything up and measure the new/used pivot bolt, collars and existing bushings to see what I'll keep and what I'll need to replace.

Any pointers? I was looking at either modifying an off the shelf oilite bronze bushing or just make some from delrin. Is oilite sintered bronze a good choice?

[HondaMan]

Impressive woodworking visual. The frame isn't all that big, maybe 40" head to tail? And weighs maybe 25#? Shipping costs these days are probably quite prohibitive.

Once I get that 2nd collar off the pivot bolt I'll clean everything up and measure the new/used pivot bolt, collars and existing bushings to see what I'll keep and what I'll need to replace.

Any pointers? I was looking at either modifying an off the shelf oilite bronze bushing or just make some from delrin. Is oilite sintered bronze a good choice?

Oilite is the best choice, followed by SAE660 (except then you must lube it somehow). I use oilite on all these swingarms. It has many dozens of times more compressive strength than the plastics or the original rubber ones.

Can you imiagine? Honda used rubber bushings for the swingarm pivots on these. And lots of the little singles, too. That's why they are/were so hard to race. Many got changed to steel or ductile iron, just so the bikes could corner at speed and then come back up without changing lanes in a wiggle.

[Alan F.]

I didn't take any photos but it sure looked like I've already got bronze bushings in place. With a little luck maybe they're not badly worn. This could explain why the pivot bolt nut seemed to be so overtightened, maybe the PO upgraded from the rubber bushings?

This is as close as I can zoom in on the shot I took of frame and swingarm:

[Alan F.]

I had a little time this afternoon and headed up to the attic to pull the center stand out of whatever remained of the Evaporust. Apparently the stuff evaporates leaving a thick dark gel that smells similar to molasses, but I didn't taste it.

I spent quite a while removing this slop with an old toothbrush and hot running water, then I wire brushed the stand and set it aside, I'll paint it black again when the weather warms up.

Then I rinsed the residual dried Evaporust from another pile of small parts, these I'd removed from the solution a while ago, before it evaporated into goo. I gave the parts a light scrub and dried them. I'll wipe on some CorrosionX tomorrow and get some photos.

[Alan F.]

I was able to remove the remaining stuck pivot collar from the pivot bolt today, freeing the left passenger peg mount. I took both passenger peg mounts and swingarm home and cleaned them up. I've got the pivot collars and NOK seals soaking, later I'll clean them up & test fit them to the swingarm. Maybe they'll be ok to reuse.

[grcamna2]

Ah,finally !