Well, the halogen isn't bad. It's just that the 550 alternator doesn't have much excess power. It's all about watts. The stock bulb was 40 W low beam and 50 watts high beam. And, even with that, the alternator doesn't make enough power at idle RPM to charge the battery. With a higher electrical load, the engine has to rev higher for the alternator to overcome the extra electrical power load before charging the battery. It depends on how you drive the bike. If most of the operation is on the highway with the RPMs up, you'll probably not notice any issues. If, however, you spend lots of time at idle or very low speed, the battery may gradually run down.
There is a secondary issue, depending on just how many watts you increased the lighting to, about whether the electrical switches can survive long term with the extra current.
Lastly, under the left side cover is a fuse panel. The fuse contacts should be bright and shiny. Any oxide bulidup on these components, adds resistance, and resistance here is dissipated as heat. If the heat buildup is great enough, the fuse melts, not from overcurrent, but from heating. It's usually the main that goes, and your bike is dead without it. With clean and polished contacts the extra heating is eliminated or greatly reduced to levels that don't cause problems. Don't just put bigger fuses in there, although the fuse may not melt from the even higher heat, the plastic will. The distortion pretty much destroys all hope of salvage, and replacements are then expected. You can check with your thumb on the fuse. It will normally get warm with all the lighting on the bike active. If it gets so warm you can't keep your thumb on it, you've got issues.
