Topic: How to keep costs on chain and sprockets down

[jensk]

I have read a lot of postings regarding chains and sprocket lubrication and wear. This is how i have done on my bicycles and motorbikes for the last 30 years. This old method has worket ok for my previous bikes getting me long chain and sprocket life for very little money and labor.

As with o-ring chains the goal is to get the lubricant indside each individual chain link without getting geasy lubrication on the outside of the chain. The greasy lubrication on the outside attracts sand and other particles from the environment. The particles acts as small corn of sand , grinding the chain and sprocket leading to accelerated wear of chain and sprockets.

This is what you should use:
Buy a set of sprockets and two ordinary reinforced chains of the right size.
Buy ½ kilo of parafine (i think the english term is wax - it's an product made from mineral oil. It consists of hydrocarbon, melting point 54 - 56 centigrades, boiling point 150 - 250 centigrades)
Buy 2 liters of kerosene
Buy a can of kippers - a big can.
Find and old 2 - 3 liter plastic bottle that can withstand kerosene.

Pour the kerosene into the plastic bottle - i use an empty plastic bottle that used to have sprinkler fluid in it. Tie a piece of metal wire to the end of the chain. Put the chain into the bottle with kerosene. the kerosene willl dissolve the conservation grease on the chain. This grease is on the chain to stop it from rusting but it is not a good lubriant.

Take the chain out of the kerosene. Rinse the rest of the kerosene out of the chain with hot water and lots of dishwashing detergent. rinse the detergent out with lots of hot water. Hang the chain out to dry or dry it in the oven. Make sure the chain is absolutely dry outside and inside before going on. I let mine hang and dry til the next day.

Open the can of kippers and get rid of the lid. Eat as much kippers as you can and serve the rest to the cat.

Wash the empty can clean of the oil. Fill the can 80% with parafin. Put the chain on top of the parafin.

Find a pan or pot that the can of parafin can be in. Pour a little water into the pan. Put the can of parafin into the pan. Be carefull that the water don't get into the parafin when boiling. Heat the water to the boiling point. Keep it just boiling nice and easy. Now the parafine is melting slowly. As it melts the chains inks into the parafine and the parafine enters inside the individual links of the chain - where lubrication is needed. Stir the chain now and then to get the air out of the links. The purpose of the water is to prevent excess heat leading to the parafine igniting it self.

When the chain has been boiling for 10 - 15 minutes take it by the wire and lift it out of the parafine. If you are carefully twisting it while lifting it will come out without loops. Let the chain dripdry over the can of parafine and wipe it with old newspaper to remove as much parafine on the outside as possible. repeat procedure with the other chain.

Mount the new sprokets and the newly parafined chain. Drive and enjoy not having oil stained all over the rear wheel and the clothes. Do NOT oil the chain with lubricants sprayed or oiled on the outside. The chain is lubricated where lubricant is needed - inside each individual chain link. Chain wear is minimal because the chain doesn't attract particles on the outside. At the same time power loss in the chaindrive is minimized due to a well lubricated chain.

Depending on the milage on the amount of driving in rainy weather I change to the other newly parafines chain once or twice a month.

The chain is put into the kerosene bottle, detergent, dry, parafine cyklus when taken of the bike.

If the cat allows it the can of parafine can last many chain/sprocket sets. Mine has done the family bicycle and motorcycle chains for the last 10 years only topping up when the parafine level got to low.

If you are carefull changing the chain before all the parafine is out of the the chain links it will last long. I can have a set of sprokets and cheap non o-ring chains in use for more than 15.000 km.

[nickjtc]

...or just fit a Scottoiler, keep the lubricant reservoir full, and ride.

I know, I know, I sound like a stuck record.

For you younger members: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Album

[Dave K]

Years ago I bought a Diamond brand chain for my 750. I was very careful about breaking the chain in and then I lubed the chain about every other tank of gas. This was back in the late '70's. I ran that chain for 23,000 miles and then changed it because I thought it had enough miles. The chain still didn't have any tight spots, nor was wore out at all. I almost do not even remember adjusting that chain. I am convinced that obviously lubing is important, but so is break in. A chain is nothing more that a series of pins and bearings. let them burnish in and keep them lubed and all will be happy.

[kettlesd]

Just an observation....

I'm not saying "don't do this" - my dad still does this to his chains. But if you removed your chain once or twice a month and cleaned it in kerosene as you suggest when swapping chains to "re-paraffin", then I would venture to argue that chains using ANY chain-specific lube - and not just paraffin - would last longer if given that treatment!

The internal frictional heat within the links from running the chain at speed is enough to soften the wax and allow dirt particles to become trapped in it. Remember, just because you cant SEE it doesn't mean they are not there.

[jensk]

The paraffin method keep the chain well lubed while not attracting dirt to the chain or throwing oil on the bike and rider. The result of the paraffin method is low costs of maintenance and long service life for chain and sprockets.

I have not tried a Scottoiler or it's like. These on-the-fly oiling devices does exactly what I am trying to avoid. They put oil on the outside of the chain. They are usefull when using o-ring chains since the o-rings need to be lubed on the outside to not wear and to keep the grease inside the chain. When using non o-ring chains such oilers tend to do the same as all other lubes that are sprayed/oiled from the outside. They put oil on the outside. this oil attracts dirt and grit that acts as sanding the chain parts (pins and rollers) thus accelerating chain wear.

If you look on a paraffined chain after use for one month it looks new and clean and has attracted allmost no dirt grinding on it's parts.

The method is so good that when I change a chain it is not because the chain has to much stretch. I change it because I don't wan't a broken chain blocking the rearwheel while driving 120 km/h. The risk for a chain breaking is getting bigger for every km/mile it's in service. So even for a not stretched chain you have to decide when it is end of service life for the chain. I have decided long ago that when a chain has been running 15.000 km it is time for a change. A set of two chains and two sprockets this way lasts 30.000 km. I think this gives a good economy for chains and sprockets when riding in rainy Denmark.

[Raul CB750K1]

Too much work and grease for me. If the drive train lasts 10.000 km less because of not cleaning it then so be it. I don't drive in sandy environment so I don't think that's an issue. I spray chain grease every now and then but I've never cleaned the chain or sprockets.

[c_kyle]

If you're running an O-ring chain, why not just spray it down with your choice of lube after the ride, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it clean?

For those who like the parafin route, you can buy parafin chain lube.  I use it for my mountain bike.  A motorcycle parafin chain lube is probably available, too.

[c_kyle]

How are people cleaning their chain while it's on the bike?

[Dave K]

I do not live in an area that has much grit or sand. I lube my chain when I get home from a ride, while the chain is warm and wipe the chain off right before I ride again. Anything that comes off on to the paper towel is going to get thrown off of the chain anyhow. Of course you lube the chain from "inside" the chain routing, so centrifical force makes the lube pass through the rollers before going to the outside of the chain where it gets flung off.

[oldfordguy]

I've been toying with an idea similar to this, but using high-temp bullet lube (the kind you use to fill the lube bands on cast bullets when sizing them, before loading them into the cartridge.)  There are different "recipes" for making it, but most contain a combination of parrafin/beeswax & moly grease.  Has a melting point of about 220 degrees F.   This would be to lube non O-ring chains, of course.
Matt

[jensk]

If you're running an O-ring chain, why not just spray it down with your choice of lube after the ride, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it clean?

For those lucky of us SOHC4 owners that have an CB550 O-ring chains is not an option since there isn'øt enough room for the wider o-ring chain.

I've been toying with an idea similar to this, but using high-temp bullet lube (the kind you use to fill the lube bands on cast bullets when sizing them, before loading them into the cartridge.)  There are different "recipes" for making it, but most contain a combination of parrafin/beeswax & moly grease.  Has a melting point of about 220 degrees F.   This would be to lube non O-ring chains, of course.
Matt

I don't know this bullet lube. As long as the melting point is above say 50 centigrades I don't think that the melting point is the major issue. I think the most important factor (except lubeability) is the ability to not get washed out by rain and water splashing from the rear wheel. If I can find a good lube with a meltingpoint above 50 Centigrade that is water washout  resistant it would be best.

[BobbyR]

If you're running an O-ring chain, why not just spray it down with your choice of lube after the ride, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it clean?

For those lucky of us SOHC4 owners that have an CB550 O-ring chains is not an option since there isn'øt enough room for the wider o-ring chain.

I've been toying with an idea similar to this, but using high-temp bullet lube (the kind you use to fill the lube bands on cast bullets when sizing them, before loading them into the cartridge.)  There are different "recipes" for making it, but most contain a combination of parrafin/beeswax & moly grease.  Has a melting point of about 220 degrees F.   This would be to lube non O-ring chains, of course.
Matt

I don't know this bullet lube. As long as the melting point is above say 50 centigrades I don't think that the melting point is the major issue. I think the most important factor (except lubeability) is the ability to not get washed out by rain and water splashing from the rear wheel. If I can find a good lube with a meltingpoint above 50 Centigrade that is water washout  resistant it would be best.

Back in the day chains were soaked in Kero and then placed in a very thick oil that was heated to a watery coinsistancy and then removed and wiped off. Like the Parrifin procedure the oil would thicken and offer lubrication. Money was scarce so you did that too your chain a few times a year. I may go O ring this year since I am getting tired of cleaning off the rear wheel. 

[ofreen]

I've been toying with an idea similar to this, but using high-temp bullet lube (the kind you use to fill the lube bands on cast bullets when sizing them, before loading them into the cartridge.) 

Maxima Chain Wax smells just like Alox.

[BobbyR]

I've been toying with an idea similar to this, but using high-temp bullet lube (the kind you use to fill the lube bands on cast bullets when sizing them, before loading them into the cartridge.) 

Maxima Chain Wax smells just like Alox.

I am sure it is probably the same formula.

[jensk]

If a commercial product is preferred to pure paraffin there are several products available ie.
http://www.putoline.com/en/product_detail.asp?nav=chain&cat=3&prod=road&prodId=2&catalogId=103
I don't know if this is any better or worse than paraffin as i only have only used paraffin for 20 years.

[upperlake04]

If you are carefull changing the chain before all the parafine is out of the the chain links it will last long.

f you look on a paraffined chain after use for one month it looks new and clean and has attracted allmost no dirt grinding on it's parts.

jensk - how do you determine when it is time to renew the paraffin treatment?  a time or km thing or is there a visual clue?

[jensk]

I use to determine it by one of three factors being present. The factors are:

• Slight surface rust on the side of the chain - not real lube problem but renewed treatment will prevent rusting
• The chain beginnning to make more noise - because there is no more paraffin on the rollers inside the links
• If there is much rain i change/retreat it twice as often as normally - "normally" is once a month depending on mileage - approx 1000 miles

A friend of mine uses the same method. He exchanges chain very regularly every monht. Through the last couple of years we have had the same renewal rate for new chains and sprockets. We both discard the old ones - not because they are stretched to the limit but because we worry about broken chains and blocket rear wheels.

We have discussed if we could save buying new sprockets since the old chains wasn't streched before they were discarded. We have booth decided that we didn't like to put economy before security so we changed sprockets when we bought a new pair of chains.

[bobsmith]

I have a EL Chepo J.C Whitney non "O" ring 530 chain and sprockets.  I lube the chain  with "Bel-Ray" every 2d fill-up.  I also live on a gravle road and its a 2 mile round trip in and out...this chain has over 25000 miles on it with no appreciaple wear on the chain or rear sprocket..proper (slow) break-in with plenty of lube is the key. Yes,  my rear wheel, centerstand, swingarm, all look like a grease pit,  but hey, it works, and I never wash my bike anyway. ( think of it as rust preventer)