Topic: 1978 CB750 Charging Issues

[Owen.Cowsert]

Good morning. Brand new user and first time poster. I’m here to seek guidance because I’ve hit a dead end. I bought my bike with a charging issue (and I’ve read they’re infamous for that). I got a good deal on the bike so I thought I’d just completely replace the regulator and rectifier (I got them from Oregon Motorcycle Parts), and the stator (I can’t remember where I got it). Before I replaced anything, there would be NO charging when testing with a meter. After replacing these three components, I only get about 12.45V at 2500 rpm when the battery initially read 12.05.

First, my thought is to maybe find test points to check the wires with a multimeter but I’m not sure where that would be. So if you know of how to test from here please let me know.

Second, this is my first motorcycle. I don’t even have a motorcycle license yet! You all are well seasoned in this stuff so if I’m blatantly missing something or if you need me to give more details I will.

[goodtryer]

Start here: http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb750k/service_manual/SM750K_3.pdf

Good luck with your bike. I have a 78 myself.

[scottly]

Owen, check to see if the three screws on the alternator cover are magnetized with the ignition switch turned on.
 

[Stev-o]

I bought my bike with a charging issue (and I’ve read they’re infamous for that).

First off, welcome!

Secondly, not sure where you read that, but in all the vintage Hondas that I've owned [15+] I cannot recall having a charging issue, other than something simple as a bad connection.

Have you done a simple charging test?  Check voltage at 1500, 2500 & 3500 rpm?  The readings should increase with rpm.  It that fails, OMP has a very good diagnostic page on their website...

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/FAQ.html

[bryanj]

FIRST fully charge the battery then do the checks listed in the manual. The system only breaks even after 3000 rpm especially if yours has the headlight always on.

Finally Hondas only have charging problems when messed with

[TwoTired]

Charging system methodical verification checks, CB750, CB550, CB500, CB400, and CB350.

Begin with problem verification and characterization with recorded data.
A -- Fully charge a known good battery.  Let it rest for 2 hours, off the charger, and measure the battery voltage.  (Target is 12.6-12.8V.)
B -- Start the bike and measure the battery voltage at idle, 2000, 3000, 4000, and 5000 rpm.
C -- Repeat the measurements of B with lighting off.

The above tests identify charging system success, failure, or degree of "faulty".  The success voltages are listed in the Shop manual.

D -- Assuming the above indicates faulty, do check the RECTIFIER diodes with a diode tester or ohmmeter capable of testing diodes and uses more than .7 volts to make the test(s).
Of the twelve test made in D, six must read low ohms and six must read very high ohms.

E- assuming no faults were found in D,  Measure the white and green wires disconnected from the REGULATOR.  CB750s should 6.8 ohms - ish,  CB550s/350s/ and 400s should read 4.9 ohms- ish.

F- If there are no bullet holes or road rash/divots on the alternator case, the stator is probably good.  But, you can check for yellow to yellow continuity (.35 ohms) among all the wires, and that no yellow wire has continuity to the engine case.

G- Assuming no faults found in D, E, and F, measure the disconnected terminals of the REGULATOR.  The black and white terminals should measure zero ohms (subtract meter error if there is any).  Higher than Zero ohms, indicates internal contact contamination needing cleaning and attention per shop manual.

H - Assuming D, E, F, and G have not found faults. We can verify all the of the charging system minus the regulator is functioning correctly, by using a temporary jumper to connect the disconnected white wire (normally attached to the REGULATOR) and connecting the White directly to the the battery POS terminal.  Repeat the B and C tests.  However, if at any time the battery voltage rises above 15V, stop the test.  Such an indication would prove the charging system capable of maintaining a known good battery.  If this test never achieves 15V, then there is a wire/connector issue in either the ground path leading back to the battery NEG terminal, a wiring/ connector issue withe the rectifier RED path to the battery POS terminal, or you made a mistake in D through G.

I - (not used, can be confused with L)

J -  The only parts that remain to prove or expose are the REGULATOR (in active mode) and the electrical path between the battery POS terminal and the black wire that connects to the REGULATOR.

K - Lying to and starving the regulator
The regulator can only do its job correctly if it gets a proper voltage report of true battery voltage status.  The Vreg monitors the Black wire for this status.  Measuring the voltage lost between the Battery terminals and the Vreg connections identifies problems that are not really the charging system's fault.
Two connection paths must be checked, the Battery POS terminal to the Black wire connection at the VReg, and the Battery NEG terminal to the Green wire connection to the Vreg.  A volt meter can measure these losses directly by placing a probe between the two identified points, Black path and then the green path.  The numbers are summed and the error seen by the Vreg quantified.  Anything over .5V loss is cause for concern and anything over 1V is a certain issue to be corrected.  Each connector, terminal, fuse clip, or switch in the pathway can cause voltage reporting loss.

The regulator also passes the received voltage on to to the Alternator field coil to create a magnetic field within the alternator,  The voltage level determines the strength of the magnetic field and the maximum output capability of the alternator.  Therefore, starving  the Vreg of true battery voltage leads to reduced max output capability of the alternator.

L - regulator operation/verification.
  The Vreg sends voltage to the alternator field in response to measured voltage which is battery state of charge.  Any voltage at the battery of less than 13.5V sends full black wire voltage to the alternator's white wire.  The alternator output will vary with RPM, even if "told" to produce max power by the Vreg.  If the alternator has enough RPM to overcome system load, any excess power is routed to the battery which will raise the battery voltage (slowly if depleted and rapidly if nearly full).   When the battery reaches 14.5V, the regulator reduces the voltage to the alternator, reducing output strength and preventing battery overcharge.  If the battery exceeds 14.7V, the regulator clamps the alternator field coil power to zero (0V), effective shutting off the alternator.

Because, there is electrical load from the system, an alternator that is not producing power allows the battery to deplete and the voltage falls.  The Vreg responds by turning the alternator back on in accordance with battery state/ charge level.

The Vreg state changes can be monitored/verified by observing the battery voltage state, and the White wire to the alternator field.  (Two meters are handy for this.)  The "trip" voltages can be adjusted with the adjust screw, while changing engine RPM and electrical load that the bike presents to the battery/charging system to "make" the battery reach the voltage levels need for the set trip points.  IE. with load reduced (lighting off) and the engine above 2500 RPM, a charged battery will attain 14.5 V.  Anything above that and the adjust screw needs to be backed out to keep the battery safe from harm.
The shop manual outlines bench set up mechanical adjustments that should be performed on unknown or tampered units.  These should be resolved before final trip point adjust tuning.

Note that while the system is working, the Vreg can change states rapidly before your very eyes., changing 5 times or more while you blink.  Therefore, you may have to mentally average values measured on the White wire if your selected meter doesn't do that for you.

[PeWe]

My CB750 K6 I have owned since early 1979 has never had a real charging issue.

Only suddenly dead battery. Cheap battery not maintained as it should wintertime.
- Some low voltage now and then when regulator was adjusted too low.  If doing as Honda CB750 shop manual describe, no problem.

I had never problems due to dirty connectors since I cleaned them all when restoring it. Also during the 80's modifications.

It seems that real charging problems occur when replacing stock regulator and rectifier with aftermarket. Many threads here about that.

I had a regulator on my CB750 K2 that suddenly clicked over to low mode when it should not. I saw when it happened when I had a supervision LED in different colors.
I replaced the regulator.

I understood later that I most likely had adjusted it too low, tried to adjust to max voltage of 12.3V to save the GEL battery. I have read they need lower voltage than standard wet for max lifetime.

I saw same behaviour on my K6, solved by adjusting regulator. Both my bikes have  voltmeter between the gauges so I can see constantly when riding. I see when high mode kick in and out.
I have measured with 2 voltmeters direct on battery to se differences at idle up to 6000 rpm.
Max 0.2V lower on front cheap eBay LED dig volt meter connected after the ign switch.

Can be used ss a tool for a week or 2 to verify charging OK. Mine sit there since over 2 years. I do not want to ride without it.


Both bikes have also a LED that measure when riding and flash when ignition off, parked look like an alarm. It has colors for too low, OK and overcharging.
I'm never worried about charging when I see it. A mod I really enjoy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/200826330214

No charging worries while riding. If voltage will be low daytime, I know when to switch off headlight to parking only. Long city riding on low rpm, much use of blinkers and brake light.

[70CB750]

Do your checks but be open minded.  My stator on 1978 CB750 SS actually went bad and it took me forever to find it  because i was absolutelly sure that "stators never go bad."

Turned out the statoer would check just fine cold and stopped working when it warmed up.  I went Edward Morris on it - local term, can explain later  - and replaced it with NOS piece and never had charging problems since.

[2wheels]

There is a larger white multipin (maybe 10 wires) connector behind the left side cover.  If memory serves me, which it often does not.
On my 1978 750F this connector had been hot and started melting and the electrical connectors were not making good contact.
Once i cleaned the contacts up,  charging was normal.
Worth a check.

[Bodi]

Stators rarely go bad but it does happen, even without a scrape along the road or other physical damage.
The usual problem in undercharge is corroded harness connectors (engine plug, bullet connectors, switch contacts, fuse clips) causing a voltage drop to the field coil or in the stator wires.
Overcharge is usually corroded wires or ground points, making the sense voltage at the regulator lower than the actual battery voltage... or someone "adjusted" the regulator.

You can test the alternator by connecting the field coil directly to battery +, bypassing the rectifier. With a fully charged battery its voltage should go above 15V pretty quickly at engine revs above 2500 or so.

[70CB750]

You can find the alternator harness on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172403613700?hash=item28240e6004%3Ag%3ARcQAAOSwMVdYI11g&LH_ItemCondition=3

It's worth it to replace it, as mentioned above that connector can have bad connection(s).

[newday777]

Welcome aboard Owen from NH.
Be sure you reply back your findings after you test it with the tests already given above(don't be one of those ghost posters who leave their threads hanging.....) Replying back helps others who use the search function to find answers to their questions later on. That's what forums are here for so be a part of it and get the enjoyment and satisfaction from learning and helping others as you learn.

If you find you need to do more replacement of the charging system and you would like to have a higher output system than stock so you can run heated gear to extend your Indiana riding, member Anders has come up with a great conversion to do so (which will cost a bit more than a stock system to replace) but uses much better more modern parts with weight reduction putting out 32 amps. (There is machining that he does that is included in the cost as well as new connectors). I can get the link if you can't find it.

Let us know how you make out on it.

[PeWe]

You can find the alternator harness on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172403613700?hash=item28240e6004%3Ag%3ARcQAAOSwMVdYI11g&LH_ItemCondition=3

It's worth it to replace it, as mentioned above that connector can have bad connection(s).

That harness is a good one if the old is damaged and very corroded. Several engine pulls can damage the neutral wire.
This and new oil pressure harness something on the buy list.

[Owen.Cowsert]

Welcome aboard Owen from NH.
Be sure you reply back your findings after you test it with the tests already given above(don't be one of those ghost posters who leave their threads hanging.....) Replying back helps others who use the search function to find answers to their questions later on. That's what forums are here for so be a part of it and get the enjoyment and satisfaction from learning and helping others as you learn.

I’m an engineering student down at Purdue and this week is finals week… so I haven’t had time to mess with the bike. But when the weekend hits i plan on going down the line of these diagnostics and following up everyone’s comments.

[Owen.Cowsert]

Owen, check to see if the three screws on the alternator cover are magnetized with the ignition switch turned on.

The three screws all are magnetic. Good to know I might have an EMF going on in there haha

[scottly]

This proves you have at least some current from the regulator to the field coil, which is the input half of the alternator. You have already replaced the output half, which consists of the stator and rectifier, and I would hope that if there were any damaged connectors in the harness that connects the stator to the rectifier you would have noticed them.
How long after starting the bike did it take for the voltage to climb to 12.45? Was the electric starter used? You may have fixed the charging system, and the bike hasn't been run long enough to fully recharge the run down battery.
You can also try jumping the white field coil wire from the regulator directly to battery +. If the charging voltage increases significantly, it may mean there is a voltage drop on the black regulator wire. 

[TwoTired]

With an aftermarket regulator, jumping from white to battery can damage the regulator.  Been there done that.  The original Honda regulator won’t care.  For newer regulators take its white regulator connection out of circuit, before connecting the white field coil wire to battery by jumping.  It might also be advisable to disconnect the black regulator input wire as well.  Hard to predict what internal design aftermarket vregs  have.

Cheers,

[Owen.Cowsert]

I bought my bike with a charging issue (and I’ve read they’re infamous for that).

First off, welcome!

Secondly, not sure where you read that, but in all the vintage Hondas that I've owned [15+] I cannot recall having a charging issue, other than something simple as a bad connection.

Have you done a simple charging test?  Check voltage at 1500, 2500 & 3500 rpm?  The readings should increase with rpm.  It that fails, OMP has a very good diagnostic page on their website...

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/FAQ.html

i ran the test on a new fully charged battery started with a kick start. I then followed the diagnostic till:
“Now set the meter to DC volts and unplug the voltage regulator.  Turn on the main ignition switch but set the handlebar switch to off.  Check the
voltage from positive to negative across the battery then check the voltage from the black wire that would have plugged in to the voltage regulator
to ground.  If there is less at the black wire than at the battery, you have a wiring problem.”

I tested the battery voltage and it read 12.12. The voltage from black wire to ground read 10.43. So this means I clearly have a wiring problem regarding the black wire.

My thought is I need to find every black wire on the bike and unplug them in combinations to eventually get a correct reading of ~ 12.12. The diagram I have shows that black wire running to a ton of different places so this will be a long process.

[PeWe]

Voltage loss in the ign switch? Wiggling the swich on-off a number of times does not change the voltage?
Make sure that fuses sit correct, no corrosion.

Contact spray and clean all bullet plugs a good idea for a long time parked bike with corroded connectors.

There is a small striped red wire from rectifier to battery that can come loose.
It sit together with the battery plus to starter relay.

That does not explain the low voltage you have now but other problems later.

[TwoTired]

Voltage loss means resistance in the wire rousing path.  The nature of resistance is that the more current passing through it, the more voltage is lost.  So, disconnecting loads off the black wire distribution will certainly improve the voltage lost but also make the problem a bit harder to find.

 Knowing that resistance causes voltage loss across it, means that a tool to measure voltage can aid diagnosis.  A volt meter across any connection or switch in the pathway will directly tell you where the voltage drops and resistance is in the pathway.  For testing in this way the more current passing through the circuit the more it will magnify a poor connection or contact fault.

So, voltmeter probes placed on either side of a connected switch tells you the loss across the switch contacts. The more current flowing in the circuit, the larger the reading on the display.  Check across the fuse, and every connector in the black wire circuit, and certainly the key switch.

Cheers,

[Owen.Cowsert]

Voltage loss means resistance in the wire rousing path.  The nature of resistance is that the more current passing through it, the more voltage is lost.  So, disconnecting loads off the black wire distribution will certainly improve the voltage lost but also make the problem a bit harder to find.

 Knowing that resistance causes voltage loss across it, means that a tool to measure voltage can aid diagnosis.  A volt meter across any connection or switch in the pathway will directly tell you where the voltage drops and resistance is in the pathway.  For testing in this way the more current passing through the circuit the more it will magnify a poor connection or contact fault.

So, voltmeter probes placed on either side of a connected switch tells you the loss across the switch contacts. The more current flowing in the circuit, the larger the reading on the display.  Check across the fuse, and every connector in the black wire circuit, and certainly the key switch.

Cheers,

Hello friends.

After following the black wire back to many places thanks to the help of a wiring diagram, I slowly was unplugging a black wire connection and checking to see if the voltage improved. If it did not improve, I reconnected the black wire I was testing as I knew it was not the problem. 

Eventually I ended up at the headlight and turn signal connector. Before unplugging this connector, the battery was reading 11.8V and the black wire was reading 9.4V. When I unplugged this connector, the black wire reading jumped to 11.4V. I then plugged in the headlight and turn signal connector and only unplugged the headlamp (green, blue, white wire) connector and again the black wire read 11.4V.

I investigated a little further and put a meter on the green and blue wire in the headlamp connector and it again read 11.4V.

So it looks like the headlight is causing this difference between the battery and the black wire. How do I fix this now? Replace the headlight?

[TwoTired]

What most people do that don't understand electrical theory, is keep replacing parts until it works again.  This works eventually, if you replace enough parts, or get lucky with your guesses at the beginning of the replacement program.
However, if one understands some basics of electricity, it can save you time and money.

One of the earliest equations to help understanding, is ohms law.  E = IxR, and its permutations, I = E/R, and R = E/I,  where E = voltage, I = Current, and R = resistance.  These equations apply to DC circuits.  A/C circuits are more complicated.  And it's only the ignition on our bikes that involves AC theory.  I won't cover that here.

All resistances in any of our motorcycle circuits involve fixed resistances at any moment of time.  Therefore the current drawn through any of these resistances is proportional to the voltage applied.  A 40/50 watt headlight is rated so when driven with 12.8 V. (manufacturer's specs can vary.)  Using Watt's law, P=IxR,  we can determine that 40W driven with 12.8 V will yield a 3.125 amp draw.  Now that we know the current and voltage, we can solve ohm's law equation to find the resistance of the bulb, 4.096 ohms.
This headlight resistance with be effectively constant at any voltage applied to it.  Increasing the voltage will yield more current flow.  Decreasing the voltage will yield less current flow through the entire circuit.

Driving the bulb direct from a battery is called a simple DC series circuit.  If you connect two bulbs, you can connect them in series or parallel.  In series, the two bulbs will operate at half power, each dropping half of the voltage applied and at half the current draw.  In parallel, the two bulbs draw full power each at double the current from the power source.

Our bikes have a combination of series and parallel circuits.  The black wire distribution portion provides a parallel path to all the end user devices.    But, between that parallel bus and the battery is a series circuit, of wire, connectors, fuses and switches.  All of these components have inherent resistance properties.

An ideal switch would have zero resistance with all currents that it passes.  We don't have any of those.  A switch contact will have some finite resistance of (hopefully) a value insignificant in the total power consumption of the circuit. 

Our bikes typically draw 10 amps through the key switch contacts when it distributes power to the black wire distribution circuit.   If the contacts have an inherent .01 ohm resistance, the switch itself will consume 0.1 volts as it passes the power through it.  Ohms law tells us this when you apply the proper formula  (E=IxR).  But, what if the switch contacts, through wear and/or corrosion, actually presents 0.1 ohm resistance?  The loads still all demand a cumulative 10 amp draw.  But, using the same formula, we find the switch contacts have consumed 1 whole volt while passing that current.  Note the voltage drop is directly current related.  If you remove a load, such as a high draw headlight and reduce the current through the switch by half, the voltage dropped by the faulty switch contacts are also reduced by half.  In fact, if you reduce the current flowing through the switch low enough, the voltage dropped by a faulty switch will be negligible and of little notice.
Every resistance in the series path between battery and black wire distribution buss, this includes switches, connectors, and fuse components, every bit of this resistance drops voltage passed to the Black wire distribution is completely proportional to the current demand of the devices being powered.

A voltmeter with probes placed on either side of a series component, will directly tell you how much voltage it is consuming on the meter display under the conditions present at the time of measure.  And no to little current flow will show no to little voltage loss.

So, your observation that the voltage loss improves on black wire distribution buss when disconnecting the headlight, is no indication that the headlight is faulty, but rather a higher than tolerable resistance property of one or more components between the battery and the switch connection to the black wire distribution buss.

One caution while troubleshooting is to be wary of battery voltage drop.  Batteries drop voltage as they deliver power.  And going back to ohms law, varying voltages also varies current draw.  While a 10 amp draw helps expose faulty components, it also depletes small batteries.  So, either be quick in your measurements, or apply a power source that maintains consistent voltage during your probative efforts.  If you are slow and methodical like me, jump in a car battery or a charger to keep the battery voltage up.

Good luck!

[scottly]

The stock fuse box is known for having high resistance connections, and should be checked. Sometimes, the fuse holders can be cleaned, but sometimes the fuse box can get melted from the heat.

[HondaMan]

With an aftermarket regulator, jumping from white to battery can damage the regulator.  Been there done that.  The original Honda regulator won’t care.  For newer regulators take its white regulator connection out of circuit, before connecting the white field coil wire to battery by jumping.  It might also be advisable to disconnect the black regulator input wire as well.  Hard to predict what internal design aftermarket vregs  have.

Cheers,

...still wondering WHY someone would want an aftermarket regulator on these 750s...? It's so easy to service the OEM ones, and I think I have seen 1 since 1969 that was 'bad', with an open coil.

[PeWe]

If bike has an old electrical system and there is a problem with it.
Clean all connectors everywhere, take them apart and together again, make sure the bullet plugs have a tight fit. Sockets will often need to be squeezed together a little.
Fuse box too remove fuses, clean connectors and back again. Tight fit.

Open the handle bar switches, clean and excercise all switches. Make sure that there is no short to handle bar.
Use electrical spray designed for this.
Disconnect the + cable from battery before doing this.

End up with charging battery for at least 24hours.
If charger indicate fully charged very quick after it has been drained, replace it.

This can fix the problem without overheating your brain. A service that is needed anyway.
Honda shop manual describe how to service the regulator and adjust it.

[Owen.Cowsert]

The stock fuse box is known for having high resistance connections, and should be checked. Sometimes, the fuse holders can be cleaned, but sometimes the fuse box can get melted from the heat.

Since you mentioned it, I did notice some melted plastic on the bottom fuse connector in the box.

[PeWe]

That fuse box reminds me about a friends fault tracing on a CB550.
We scratched our heads until we saw a fuse mounted wrong. Between the posts for fuses. Very strange behavior that did not match the circuit diagram; D
The owner made a mistake...

Do not forget the ground cable from battery to frame-engine case. Good idea to remove paint to ensure good connectivity.

Melted fuse box indicate a need to inspect and clean all wirings/connectors.

[Stev-o]

The stock fuse box is known for having high resistance connections, and should be checked. Sometimes, the fuse holders can be cleaned, but sometimes the fuse box can get melted from the heat.

Since you mentioned it, I did notice some melted plastic on the bottom fuse connector in the box.

I'd upgrade to Hondaman's fusebox...

http://sohc4shop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=48&osCsid=25ee24bfb8ef539bcdd4a2f83fecfbda

[1978 750F F2]

I have experienced the same issue and to me electrical issues are most challenging!
 
I discovered a peculiar issue while checking the voltage and amperage on the SuperSport charging system.
The bike has but 3530 miles, its relatively in new condition for a 1978; no corrosion on any parts of the electrical system.
Here are my findings using a multimeter:
1. ) Battery is fully charged--12.7 volts
2.)  engine running--1000rpm, volts 11.5 , amps 6.8 to 7.4
3.)  engine running--2000rpm, volts 11.5, amps 1 to 0.78
4.) engine running--3000rpm, volts 11.8,  amps 0 .74 to 0.78
5.) engine running--4000rpm, volts 11.8, amps 0.74 to 1.3
I adjusted the mechanical voltage regulator turning the adjustment screw as specified on page 15-8 of the Honda shop manual...  No change in voltage (adjusting to maximum and minimum voltage)

Please advise.
Phil

[scottly]

With the key on and engine not running, check the voltage on both the regulator black terminal and white terminal.

[HondaMan]

Something I often find on the 750 when rebuilding them for others is: the 5 'bullet' connectors under the left side cover (available with the sprocket cover removed) are burned and cooked. This causes low-charge situations, despite all good components. Look to see if yours has burned-dark jackets on those plugs/receptacles: the ones most often burned are the 3 yellow ones from the alternator's windings (the other 2 there are for the field coil, only occasionally burned). This happens mostly because they were originally zinc-plated steel connectors with a planned 10-year life - that was about 40 years ago - and the zinc was supposed to prevent the steel's corrosion. You can get identical versions in brass today from Vintageconnections.com: they are the 3.5mm size, and they have a most-excellent, airtight crimping tool for them, too. The brass ones won't die in 10 years: in most of the bikes I rebuild I replace these, every one. They have never suffered an alternator problem, either.

[Rayzerman]

I would take that a step further..... every old bike you know with older style charging systems has the identical problem of burned up stator connections on the three yellow wires, doesn't matter what terminal type or plating..... get rid of the teminals, period.  Strip, and either use bare butt connectors/solder/heat shrink or twist the wires together and solder/heat shrink. 

[newday777]

I have experienced the same issue and to me electrical issues are most challenging!
 
I discovered a peculiar issue while checking the voltage and amperage on the SuperSport charging system.
The bike has but 3530 miles, its relatively in new condition for a 1978; no corrosion on any parts of the electrical system.
Here are my findings using a multimeter:
1. ) Battery is fully charged--12.7 volts
2.)  engine running--1000rpm, volts 11.5 , amps 6.8 to 7.4
3.)  engine running--2000rpm, volts 11.5, amps 1 to 0.78
4.) engine running--3000rpm, volts 11.8,  amps 0 .74 to 0.78
5.) engine running--4000rpm, volts 11.8, amps 0.74 to 1.3
I adjusted the mechanical voltage regulator turning the adjustment screw as specified on page 15-8 of the Honda shop manual...  No change in voltage (adjusting to maximum and minimum voltage)

Please advise.
Phil

Welcome aboard the forum Phil
Is that a new to you bike? It looks great.
Follow Scottly and Hondaman's advice. Report back your findings and results.

[HondaMan]

The stock fuse box is known for having high resistance connections, and should be checked. Sometimes, the fuse holders can be cleaned, but sometimes the fuse box can get melted from the heat.

Since you mentioned it, I did notice some melted plastic on the bottom fuse connector in the box.

Yep, that one's in trouble!
The original chromate plating on those lower fuse clips has flaked off the tin underneath. This makes the clips heat up while they carry current. The short-term 'fix' for it is to take a steel wire brush and shine those contact back up. This will work for a little while, but today's fuses are not rated to run with vibration, so they will fail while you're riding even though nothing is actually wrong then.
Here's the skinny on the fuses: the OEM versions were the old SFE types, which are (were) rated for vibration while carrying current. The SFE fuse type was discontinued worldwide during the 1990s and the world's supply ran out somewhere around 2006 or so. So, even those who are selling "new fuseblocks" on the internet don't seem to know this, and those come to you with appliance-style fuses in them. Even worse, China has recently started marking appliance-style fuses as "SFE" on their fusecaps, increasing this confusion greatly since about 2 years ago.

I make a more modern version of those fuseholders: take a look at SOHC4shop.com to see what they look like and if you'd like one. They use modern automotive fuses of the ATC type, which you can buy even at the local grocery store now.