Topic: Clutch won't budge [FIXED]

[DavePhipps]

All I had left to do before riding the 72 CB500 for the first time was install the clutch cable. I got it in and adjusted to spec. I then tried to pull the lever and nothing. No movement beyond the specified play. I'm looking through the manual right now and am wondering if the PO tightened the springs too tight.
Any suggestions or insights would be welcome.

[DavePhipps]

From reading through many forums search results and the manual I've come to 2 possible conclusions. The springs are tightened wayyyyy too tight or the plates are stuck. Some have suggested riding the bike will loosen the plates. That one seems a bit scary. I live in a high traffic area. The other method is open it up and check springs and plates.

JIMMINY CHRISTMAS YOU %#$@ing  FRUSTRATING BIKE!!!!!!!

There, I feel better.

[dave500]

on the left hand case where the adjusting screw is,remove that cover,does the coarse thread part move within the outer alloy"nut"?

[DavePhipps]

on the left hand case where the adjusting screw is,remove that cover,does the coarse thread part move within the outer alloy"nut"?

Not sure what you're talking about. I'l take it the cover off and see if I can make sense of it.
BTW I tried the rocking the bike back in forth in gear and it's loosening up. Hard to do on a gravel driveway though.

[scottly]

From reading through many forums search results and the manual I've come to 2 possible conclusions. The springs are tightened wayyyyy too tight or the plates are stuck.

I'm guessing you are wrong on both counts: there is no adjustment for the springs, and with stuck plates, the hand lever feels normal. I think you should re-do the adjustment of the clutch, by the book, starting with the lever on the right side of the motor, then move on to the cable adjustment. A bit of history would help: did the clutch ever work properly, that you know of?

[Spanner 1]

i've read that before here........ confusion about 'how tight the clutch springs should be'..... there is no adjustment of the clutch springs, the bolts must be done-up all the way to spec. torque of 6 to 7 ft. lbs. If the bolts were not tightened all the way then the clutch operation would be zero ( i.e. clutch wont disengage ) AND the bolts would back-out and jamb against the clutch cover with a running motor IMO, not good

[DavePhipps]

I'm guessing you are wrong on both counts: there is no adjustment for the springs, and with stuck plates, the hand lever feels normal. I think you should re-do the adjustment of the clutch, by the book, starting with the lever on the right side of the motor, then move on to the cable adjustment. A bit of history would help: did the clutch ever work properly, that you know of?

I have removed the cable twice and redone the adjustment as per the manual.
Install cable. Do gross adjustment at the nut near the engine, and fine adjustment at the bars. I just got the bike and this is the first time it's had a clutch cable on it this year.

I'm going to finish my coffee and go out remove the left crankcase cover to verify what Dave500 asked

[Gordon]

I'm guessing you are wrong on both counts: there is no adjustment for the springs, and with stuck plates, the hand lever feels normal. I think you should re-do the adjustment of the clutch, by the book, starting with the lever on the right side of the motor, then move on to the cable adjustment. A bit of history would help: did the clutch ever work properly, that you know of?

I have removed the cable twice and redone the adjustment as per the manual.
Install cable. Do gross adjustment at the nut near the engine, and fine adjustment at the bars. I just got the bike and this is the first time it's had a clutch cable on it this year.

I'm going to finish my coffee and go out remove the left crankcase cover to verify what Dave500 asked

You're adjusting the clutch cable.  What needs adjustment is the clutch. 

[DavePhipps]

Dave500 everything moves fine in the the left crankcase. There is no issue with the actuator at all.
Gordon, I believe you are right, but how do I go about adjusting the clutch itself?


I forgot to put in specifics, sorry.
Removed the left crankcase cover, and checked the mechanism that pushes on the shift shaft and it is in perfect working order from what I can see. I cannot move the shift shaft in by pressing in it with my fingers. there is no give at all. I don't know if this is norml or not.

[Gordon]

Not trying to be snarky, but do you have a manual?  The clutch adjustment procedure is in there, and it's pretty straight-forward.

[DavePhipps]

I've got the manual and for clutch adjustment it says to loosen the screw in the left crankcase. Turn till you fel resistance and then back out 1/8 of a turn. I've done this 3-4 times just to be sure. That adjusts the actuator which pushes on the shift shaft.
When you said adjust the clutch itself I thought you meant the clutch basket.
 

[DavePhipps]

OK. I'm going to show my ignorance here. What does the shift shaft push on? I'm looking through the manual for an explanation or expolded view but cannot find one.
 I found these threads on the subject
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=61563.0
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=2217.0
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=7463.0

[Patrick]

Have you ever known this clutch to work correctly? Do you know the PO? Did he/she ever work on the clutch? Did he/she have any mechanical expertise? You still haven't given any indication that you are sure the clutch was properly disassembled/reassembled. Maybe that's why the PO parked the bike with no clutch cable.

If you have any idea how to do it, it may be time to break the clutch down and put it together again. If the star plate was not properly aligned the clutch won't work. If the pressure plate was not properly aligned the clutch won't work.

JMHO.

Patrick

[DavePhipps]

The last time the bike was on the road was 2002.
It's been through 2 owners since then.
The clutch was in unknown condition when the bike was purchased. There were no controls on the bike. It did shift though the gerars on the center stand though.
Tere is evidence that the right side crankcase has been off in the past. There is tons of white gasket sealant around it.
I rocked the bike back and forth while in gear for 20 minutes.
I've tried riding the bike down hill to loosen the clutch plates.
I've had the bike on the centerstand, running and going through the gears, and pulling the clutch lever.
Nothing hs worked so far
I'm going to take the basket out and inspect it.

[ekpent]

Usually on a 750 anyways when they have sat for a long time the clutch handle will pull in but the clutch will not work.After they are brought back to life and the engine has been warmed well and fresh oil has circulated through that area they will break loose and work again fine.A little gentle rocking may be needed.

[DavePhipps]

OK a couple things were wrong.
The lifter in the left crankcase cover was fouling and not moving all the way up. The cage for the end of the cable is now broken. The cable is connected hith a tiny hose clamp for now
The clutch plates were stuck together. They also don't look like the stock plates. the grooves in the fiber plates are curved instead of radial. I've seperated them and they are unstuck.
Next the clutch lifter rod seem to be 2 pieces. However it doesn't seem to be long enough to lift the plates. My landlord said there might be a ball bearing between the rods. There isn't. He's an ex-BMW mechanic.

I'm going to ask him if I can borrow the camera and take pics.
Dang it the pics are 2.5 mb. I'll edit and post later

[DavePhipps]

The clutch lifter rod was too short. I experimented with different bearings till I found one the correct size. Now when I pull the clutch lever the clutch actually works