Topic: Vape.Eu

[amitr0]

Had any one upgraded their sohc hondas with products from vape. Eu?

If so, product reviews would help.

I am hunting for a stator fir my '76 cb550k and couldn't find any. Was considering these products instead.

[bryanj]

Why do you want a stator?

[amitr0]

Why do you want a stator?

My mc has charging issues

[Deltarider]

It's very, very unlikely the stator is the cause. What makes you think yours is?

[bryanj]

I agree, unless they are physically damaged by accident ormissuse the stators rarely fail

[amitr0]

I agree, unless they are physically damaged by accident ormissuse the stators rarely fail

It's very, very unlikely the stator is the cause. What makes you think yours is?

being a lurker in this forum for sometime and reading all the good posts from you guys, deep inside me I know maybe it is not the field coil or the rotor, but my tests indicate otherwise.

The field coil resistance is down to 4.1 (normal is 4. and the stator is giving me .7 (normal is .3 ).

I open the alternator cover, there no signs of physical damages. I cleaned the connectors with electrical cleaners and also used multple multimeters to check the values I read to try and eliminate equipment errors.

I am a complete noob to this, and I apologize for perhaps writing things down in a way which is hard for you guys to understand the problem, the truth is, I perhaps do not understand it as well.

I hate posting and creating multiple threads about the same issue, it gets annoying quickly, but I also do not know what else to do.

[69cb750]

Use your volt meter to check if the field coil is turned on (12 volts), you can also use a wrench to test as the field coil is a magnet.
Use your volt meter to check the stator output (ac) when field coil is on.

While possible the field or stator can fail they are amazing reliable even at fifty years (!!) and battery, connectors, regulator, rectifier are more likely candidates.

[amitr0]

Use your volt meter to check if the field coil is turned on (12 volts), you can also use a wrench to test as the field coil is a magnet.
Use your volt meter to check the stator output (ac) when field coil is on.

While possible the field or stator can fail they are amazing reliable even at fifty years (!!) and battery, connectors, regulator, rectifier are more likely candidates.

Can you please explain how one performs the tests you mentioned. About the magnet part, I had done it before, atleast I think so, I used screws though instead of wrenches and they stuck to the alternator cover when the bike was running.

[bryanj]

A reading below 1 ohm is inherently innaccurate unless using a VERY expensive meter, dmm wont do it. I suspect you are either keeping the revs too low, riding with lights onall the time or loosing too much between battery pos and black at regulator.
Common high resistance points are the fuse, ignition switch and multi black connector in headlamp.

[amitr0]

A reading below 1 ohm is inherently innaccurate unless using a VERY expensive meter, dmm wont do it. I suspect you are either keeping the revs too low, riding with lights onall the time or loosing too much between battery pos and black at regulator.
Common high resistance points are the fuse, ignition switch and multi black connector in headlamp.

It is the US version, so I cannot turn lights off. Yes, mine is a city riding case, so perhaps engine braking and low revs play a role, in such scenarios, how do I keep my bike alive? It has become annoying since I go for a coffee and can't return back from the shop, as battery voltage drops and bike won't start.

I have used electrical contact cleaner on some of the aforementioned spots, I will do the ones I didn't blast it with.

[PeWe]

I used a panohm at my job for many years ago. To verify  circuits to be max 0.1 ohm or just see conductivity or not.

A simple tool, but good sometimes.

There are so many charging threads on this forum describing everything worth to know and more about how it works with fault tracing.

Note! Battery must be fully charged to measure max voltage over the poles when charging. Used the starter will take some time to recover.

 Start with kickstarter.

I bought a cheap Chinese replacement for regulator and rectifier. Got it for $25US free shipping. I did never connect it after reading too many posts here about problems when using it or attemots to use it. I made sure that stock is working well as it did.

All connectors cleaned down where the alternator wiring connects to the harness (bullet plugs that must connect tight), harness connector cleaned too. Old one is corroded. There are spray to use.
Regulator cleaned inside as the Honda Workshop manual describe.
Rectifier harness, green cable connected without corrosion.

Battery - ground wire connected to ground/engine without paint between.

I have seen unstable behaviour when it enter the low mode when it should not. Adj screw adjusted max voltage a little too low.
Enough to tighten it 1/4 or 1/3 turn. The screw thas has a lock nut and red paint.

[bryanj]

I would fit UK switches so you can turn lights off and only use the first 3 gears.
Seriously somewhere i have a diagram for a diy reg that will give smoother charging BUT the real problem will be volt loss between battery and reg, i would say 90% certain

[amitr0]

I would fit UK switches so you can turn lights off and only use the first 3 gears.
Seriously somewhere i have a diagram for a diy reg that will give smoother charging BUT the real problem will be volt loss between battery and reg, i would say 90% certain

Yes, already trying to score a UK switch, it is the left handle bar switch isnt it?

There is no direct connection between the battery and the reg, is there?

Riding in just 3 gears makes the ride rather annoying, but might be my only option.

[bryanj]

No the rh switch has the lights on/off on it.
You have to follow the wiring from battery to fuse to ignition switch in, turn switch on then switch out then headlamp bucket then regulator

[Trevor from Warragul]

Years ago I bought a connector kit from Vintage Connections. I replaced most of the connectors on my 350 Four, and afterwards the neutral light was noticeably brighter.

[Bodi]

There is no direct connection from reg to battery (except to "-" via green wire to frame ground of course).
Fully charge a good battery.
Connect the black and white regulator wires together.
Remove the "HEAD" fuse.
Start engine with Kickstarter. Rev to 3000rpm.
Measure battery voltage, if it isn't rising then you do have a problem, but still the coils are probably ok.
Also measure voltage from battery "+" to the reg black wire (still numbered to white). Over about half a volt is concerning.
Harness connections aging is 90% of electrical problems. A thorough cleaning of them all is a first step.

Low rpm riding - particularly with electronic ignition and/or a high wattage headlight - will never fully charge the battery. The bike will probably not stall out but may. The alternator makes power by using field coil power... output drops as battery voltage drops but all load power draw drops as well. You end up with an equilibrium voltage hopefully high enough for headlight bright enough to see the road and enough spark to keep running.

[Deltarider]

Harness connections aging is 90% of electrical problems.

How do you know that?

A thorough cleaning of them all is a first step.

Them all?! Then there's a good chance, you do work not needed. Hence my suggestion to perform a V4 measurement. You'll have a pinpoint diagnosis and - as a bonus - you'll have learned something.
Here is what I have learned. Most connections in my harnass do not show any V-drop and those that do, it's so little, it's not worth mentioning. Better begin at the known troublemakers: fuses and their clamps, IGN key switch and - often overlooked - a rusty, dirty or loose NEG path (like shown in the pic below).

[amitr0]

Harness connections aging is 90% of electrical problems.

How do you know that?

A thorough cleaning of them all is a first step.

Them all?! Then there's a good chance, you do work not needed. Hence my suggestion to perform a V4 measurement. You'll have a pinpoint diagnosis and - as a bonus - you'll have learned something.
Here is what I have learned. Most connections in my harnass do not show any V-drop and those that do, it's so little, it's not worth mentioning. Better begin at the known troublemakers: fuses and their clamps, IGN key switch and - often overlooked - a rusty, dirty or loose NEG path (like shown in the pic below).

I meant to ask you this in the other thread where you showed me how to do this diagnosis... This requires two Multimeters, right?

[Bodi]

Harness connections aging is 90% of electrical problems.

How do you know that?

A thorough cleaning of them all is a first step.

Them all?! Then there's a good chance, you do work not needed. Hence my suggestion to perform a V4 measurement. You'll have a pinpoint diagnosis and - as a bonus - you'll have learned something.
Here is what I have learned. Most connections in my harnass do not show any V-drop and those that do, it's so little, it's not worth mentioning. Better begin at the known troublemakers: fuses and their clamps, IGN key switch and - often overlooked - a rusty, dirty or loose NEG path (like shown in the pic below).

1) 90%? A lot of experience over 50 or so years. Bikes get stupid electrical problems, like signals not working, brake light failing... and these ones are at or near 50 years old. If a bike is ridden in non perfect riding weather, corrosion is inevitable. If there's an obvious problem like melted wires then yes fix that and look for the cause. But weird stuff like the engine randomly cutting off when riding... service the harness, and the safe bet is that it's fixed.
2) Yes, there are critical connections particularly affecting charging - the engine plug and any coil wire bullets under the engine cover. But cleaning them all isn't such a chore, maybe an hour's work. I find overheated ones in the main breakout at the steering neck often, and the headlight wires and grounds in the bucket... so in my opinion cleaning them all and tightening any that are loose is a good first step on a 70s bike with electrical gremlins.

[Deltarider]

I meant to ask you this in the other thread where you showed me how to do this diagnosis... This requires two Multimeters, right?

It's just 4 steps with the same meter. When you look at the pics long enough, you'll get it. I've looked for you for vids on the internet, but I found them only in Dutch. I don't even know how 'V4 meting' translates in English. But there must me vids where someone explains it in your language. So native speakers are invited to chime in.
Let's say there's a problem, something is not working right: a somewhat dim lamp.
Step 1: you measure the potential over the battery terminals. Here it is 12,0 V. This is now your reference.
Write it down: V₁ is 12,0 V. Then one step to the right, which is step 2. You measure the potential over both sides of the part that you suspect: that dim light. Here you measure a potential of 11,0 V. Write that down: V₂ is: 11,0 V.
Hmm, one volt does not make it from Batt POS to Batt NEG, so to speak. No wonder the light is somewhat dim: for optimal performance we need all Volts to pass. Where can I look for that missing volt?
Step 3. Check if there's any potential over Battery POS and POS side of the lamp. Ideal outcome would be 0 (zero), indicating there's no resistance and all volts arrive. In our example 0,1 V is missing. This is acceptable. BTW, you can interpret that little square as things in between like a fuse and/or a switch.
Write down: V₃ is: 0,1 V.
Now check the NEG side of the route: the potential over Batt Neg and the NEG side of the lamp. In this example we measure 0,9 V. Write that also down: V₄ is: 0,9 V.
Before we begin interpreting our results, let's first check we did the V4 measuring right.
You only have to remember one formula: V₁= V₂+V₃+V₄. Always.
So in our example: 12,0 = 11,0 + 0,1 + 0,9. Conclusion: we did it right. As already said, the 0,1 V missing in the POS route is not much of a problem. Possibly there is some minor resistance by a fuse and/or a switch. Not much to worry about. The 0,9 V in the NEG route is a reason for concern however. But at least we now know, where to look in order to locate it. In our example, it's probably a rusty, dirty or loose connection. Could be the thick Batt NEG cable, connected to a recently powdercoated frame.
Ofcourse this is a simplistic representation. Depending on 'obstacles' like switches and/or fuses, we may need more steps to perform, but V₁ must always be the sum of V₂ and V_--n. Also realise, I've limited myself here to describing a situation, where a component is not working a 100%. There's also the possibility ofcourse, something is not working at all. I'd then start by isolating that part first and connect it directly to a known good battery to verify that part is OK.