Topic: 1980 Suzuki GS1100E

[Kelly E]

I wish I could find a GS1000E for $500 or even $750...

We tried to find another one around here for another friend but couldn't find another decent one.

[Leino]

So did you get the mixture screws loose in the carbs ?

Not yet, one of the #1 carbs broke trying to unscrew the mixture screw. Sure glad we have two sets.

That's pretty common with these bikes. If I remember right Suzuki doesn't even offer the mixture screws as a spare part.
It's been 16 years since I ran a set of stock carbs so I hope I'm wrong 

[Runningdog]

Have you given the carbs a ride in a sonic cleaner, even before attempting disassembly?

[grcamna2]

So did you get the mixture screws loose in the carbs ?

Not yet, one of the #1 carbs broke trying to unscrew the mixture screw. Sure glad we have two sets.

I don't like how that style Mikuni carbs have the mixture screws pointing straight up inside that little 'well' which catches all the water,etc. I used to put some wheel bearing grease(that was after drilling out the factory block-off plugs of brass/aluminum)inside each pilot screw opening after adjusting mine so the water wouldn't sit there.

[RAFster122s]

Scott, that one has been stripped down to sell everything, was hoping for something that didn't cost $2-3k to reequip with fenders, ignition, seat, harness, etc, etc. Might make nice parts bike...
Probably was one and the motor has issues internally, so seller stripped of everything he could use or flip.
Still, if compression was decent and motor didn't show signs of issues it could make a nice start to a resto-mod version with freedom to do whatever you wanted with it.

[Kelly E]

Have you given the carbs a ride in a sonic cleaner, even before attempting disassembly?

Everything has been through two 20 minute rides in the ultrasonic tank and a couple of hours in Berrymans. Nothing has touched the build-up in the mixture screw wells. I've also tried heat with no success. The mixture screws are not made of brass, they are some kind of hard alloy, I've never seen that before. Today I drilled one out as close to the threads as I dared and still the mixture screw material is bonded to the carb body. I'm afraid we're going to have to get a third set of carbs to build a working set.

[Leino]

If you decide to replace them, get a set of GS 1150 carbs.

[Kelly E]

If you decide to replace them, get a set of GS 1150 carbs.

What is the benefit of changing to the 1150 carbs?

[Leino]

If you decide to replace them, get a set of GS 1150 carbs.

What is the benefit of changing to the 1150 carbs?

+2mm

[RAFster122s]

So it can flow more air and fuel if your cams can use it and exhaust won't restrict it ...
Is this why you should go with the bigger carbs? Or do they work better than the smaller stock GS1000 carbs?
Did they change the screw design that he is fighting with to brass that can be removed?
Curious why as well... looking to learn.

[grcamna2]

More power on top-end.

[Leino]

They are simply the best and easiest CV carb (unless you count the Harley Keihins) I've had the pleasure to work on plus I've never seen a set of 1150 carbs with stuck mixture screws, unlike multiple 34's with the issue.
Find a good set, clean, adjust, install and live happily ever after.

[gpzkat]

There's a thread on 'Pesky and stuck pilot air jets' on thegsresources.com forum, I think refers to the same thing. One guy ground down a bit and used an impact to remove his, but what caught my eye was the response from another guy that rebuilds carbs all the time as a side gig and whose opinion I've come to trust.  He said "The air jets don't gunk up. I'd leave them in place if they don't come out easily."   Sort of makes sense if they are just metering air in.

[ekpent]

There's a thread on 'Pesky and stuck pilot air jets' on thegsresources.com forum, I think refers to the same thing. One guy ground down a bit and used an impact to remove his, but what caught my eye was the response from another guy that rebuilds carbs all the time as a side gig and whose opinion I've come to trust.  He said "The air jets don't gunk up. I'd leave them in place if they don't come out easily."   Sort of makes sense if they are just metering air in.

That sounds like good advice especially if it was running well when parked.

[Kelly E]

No luck removing the mixture screws. I chipped a piece of the screw out after drilling it as far as I dared. It took the threads with it. My buddy is looking for another set of carbs now. We've done many sets of carbs in the last 3 years including an 81' GS1100E and some pretty crusty bikes. We've never had this kind of issue before.
This bike is a little crusty as well but it only has 17k miles on it and is worthy of resurrection. They are great riding bikes that handle good and make me giggle in my helmet when I go WOT. I will keep going through the rest of the bike while Paul finds us a decent set of carbs.

[Kelly E]

We've decided to get a new set of Mikuni RS 36 slide carbs. Used stock sets are 2/3rds the price of new and still might not be any good. They'll go great with the new Delkavic stainless 4 into 1 exhaust. This bike is a keeper so we don't mind stepping up for the new carbs.

[grcamna2]

The Mikuni RS will be Great on that 1100E

[Kelly E]

The new Mikuni RS 36 flat slide carbs with accelerator pump arrived.

[grcamna2]

 

[Kelly E]

Just an update. We're still cleaning up stuff. Got all of the brakes apart and clean except the front master cylinder, it's seized. We're getting a new one. We installed new wheel bearings and are dropping them off for new tires tomorrow.
Waiting on the tool to get the forks apart. I was able to get one leg apart but the other just spins as soon as it comes loose. We still need to pull the triple tree because the bearings are notchy. Also have to sand the fork lowers, they are just too far gone to just clean.

[MRieck]

The new Mikuni RS 36 flat slide carbs with accelerator pump arrived.

RS's are the "small block Chevy" of carbs....bulletproof.

[gpzkat]

If you bought the Suzuki 'stabber' tool like below for loosening the forks, as I did, well it's a loser and a waste of $.  Sure, it works, but it's crude and I believe a 17mm or 11/16 nut (two doubled together IIRC) on the end of some all thread is a more secure and less expensive way.   Just this was $18 or so, and then there is an extension tool.  I just got the end piece because I have a long 3/8" extension, and I wasn't sure about the nut method due to lack of clear pics.

All it does is jab into the softer aluminum, and right below that area is the hex.  After separating the unit, sure enough a nut would work much better.  Lots of info on this and anything else GS related on thegsresources.com forum.

[Kelly E]

Paul ordered both pieces by part number. They are supposed to be here tomorrow. The T handle was cheap and if the fitting looks like that I'll send it back and weld a 1/2" diameter bolt with a 3/4" head into a cheap 13mm 3/8" drive socket for the T handle, it fits perfectly into the piston. Better than a 12mm bolt with a 19mm head.
It's what I should have done in the first place but he had already ordered it. The fork I got apart looks like someone was in there with something like that crude tool you showed. I'm looking forward to having our own GS1100 plus it will be faster than our buddy Glen's.

[Kelly E]

Well the fork tool showed up today and it is the correct Suzuki tool, worked great.

[Kelly E]

I finally finished one of the fork sliders. First I give them a brake fluid bath to remove the factory clear coat. Then I use files to smooth out the Suzuki rough castings and do the rest with 400g sandpaper to get a satin finish, the last round is only sanded in circular motion not linear to get the factory type finish, at least like the Honda finish.