Topic: Rustoleum and 2k clear?

[Shopdog]

I started a thread with questions about paint and decals for my cb550 today and it got me thinking about another couple projects I have in the works.

One of them is a 1982 Mercury Capri. I have an engine and drivetrain to go in it, but it's in dire need of a paint job (and some very minor body work). It was originally red and I'll probably keep it roughly the same color. After spending a grand or so on paint products for another old car of mine, I'm looking for cheaper options. Rustoleum is about a cheap as it gets. I just prefer a 2k clear for durability. I have 2 gallons of 2k clear on hand.

Have any of you tried 2k over oil-based enamel? My idea, after reading through some varying info online, is to shoot the entire car with red Rustoleum. Thin with acetone or minersl spirits and also use a catalyst with it.  Give it a couple weeks to cure. Wet-sand, wipe down/tack cloth, and then do a few coats of 2k clear.

A gallon of paint should be enough for the entire car. A gallon of basecoat for my last one was $300. Rustoleum is about $50 and my local Menards can even mix it (I think they have 20 or 30 colors to choose from).

This isn't a show car or anything like that. I just wanted a decent looking beater to keep miles off the new truck.

[seanbarney41]

I have never heard of a catalyst that works with rustoleum and without it, oil based paint is difficult to spray because it dries too slow...think massive runs and sags.  Many years ago Hot Rod magazine did a write up on how to paint your car with rustoleum and foam brushes.  It came out quite good.  Very cheap, but very labor intensive.

[Shopdog]

I plan to experiment with it soon. You're correct that it takes a long time to dry (well, it takes a while to cure... that's for sure). There's also a product called "japan dryer" that is supposed to help it set up quickly. I've never tried any of this stuff.

I'm really curious about the catalyst. If that stuff makes the paint more durable, particularly to chemicals/solvents, I would probably just skip the 2k clear on this car.

[scottly]

I built a flatbed trailer almost 30 years ago, and sprayed it with red rustoleum paint. IIRC, I thinned it with mineral spirits to make it dry faster than if it had been brushed on. It's held up fairly well as far as protecting the steel, but it was never a high gloss finish, and is now more of a flat red.
Also, my experience with oil-based paints is that it doesn't sand well; it is too "gummy" for lack of a better word.

[Shopdog]

I built a flatbed trailer almost 30 years ago, and sprayed it with red rustoleum paint. IIRC, I thinned it with mineral spirits to make it dry faster than if it had been brushed on. It's held up fairly well as far as protecting the steel, but it was never a high gloss finish, and is now more of a flat red.
Also, my experience with oil-based paints is that it doesn't sand well; it is too "gummy" for lack of a better word.

I used Majic brand tractor and implement paint for years on transmission cases and I believe it's an oil-based enamel like Rustoleum. I was sold on it after using it the first time. I checked it a couple days after painting and it was still soft to the touch. I was a little upset because I had spent a long time prepping and making it look good. I even set it out in the sun for an entire day (summer) and let it cook. I finally just threw it back in the garage and forgot about it for a week. I was pleasantly surprised when I checked it again and it had cured to a super hard finish. It's available in a few colors, including red. They make a catalyst for it, as well,  which also works with Rustoleum.

Again, I've never tried the catalyst or "japan dryer" but i think I'll spray some test pieces, with and without the catalyst and see what happens.

[70CB750]

I built a flatbed trailer almost 30 years ago, and sprayed it with red rustoleum paint. IIRC, I thinned it with mineral spirits to make it dry faster than if it had been brushed on. It's held up fairly well as far as protecting the steel, but it was never a high gloss finish, and is now more of a flat red.
Also, my experience with oil-based paints is that it doesn't sand well; it is too "gummy" for lack of a better word.

I used Majic brand tractor and implement paint for years on transmission cases and I believe it's an oil-based enamel like Rustoleum. I was sold on it after using it the first time. I checked it a couple days after painting and it was still soft to the touch. I was a little upset because I had spent a long time prepping and making it look good. I even set it out in the sun for an entire day (summer) and let it cook. I finally just threw it back in the garage and forgot about it for a week. I was pleasantly surprised when I checked it again and it had cured to a super hard finish. It's available in a few colors, including red. They make a catalyst for it, as well,  which also works with Rustoleum.

Again, I've never tried the catalyst or "japan dryer" but i think I'll spray some test pieces, with and without the catalyst and see what happens.

+1 on Majic.  Quite the quality paint.