Topic: Going tubeless.....

[BallAquatics]

Ordering in the supplies to convert my spoke rims.  Anyone tried this?

[pjlogue]

Many (like 40+) years ago I had thought about using the dow corning silicone seal to do something like that.  After some through, I decided against even trying it.  40+ years later still would not try that for a spoked rim.  There are way to many things that could go wrong at the worst possible moment.  If you want tubeless tires, get rims that were made for them. 

To draw an analogy; picture yourself building a boat out of window screening and painting it so it was water proof and then going out in the Atlantic ocean and preying you didn't spring a leak. 

In my mind, neither of the above ideas are worth the risk.

-P.

[flatlander]

that looks a bit flimsy.
i had my spoke wheels converted to tubeless by a shop that does this for MX bikes. they only do it on suitable rims (not our old CB rims) and what they used was some sort of resin that firmly seals the bed area. underneath it, the spoke nipples can still be adjusted without disturbing the seal. very different from what that video shows.

[Tracksnblades1]

That wheel my have been invented…😁

Tubliss is a system where a small heavy
Reinforced inner tube bead lock/seal is inflated
To 100psi. Effectively sealing and locking the beads
To the rim.

Allows you to run 0-40lbs in your tubeless tire. While the
bead seal/bead lock/rim ding protector 100psi inner tube keeps
Everything locked, sealed and protected.

I’ve seen these act as a run flat for a tubeless rear knobby
On a dirt bike, after tearing the whole side out of it. It made
All the way back to the trailer.

Don’t know if they’ve made the leap to the road. But a 130/18
is 130/18.

http://tubliss.com/tubliss/

[Don R]

  I read that screen door boat guy sells that flex seal stuff and that will seal your rims for tubeless. You notice I said your rims. Not my rims.
  OOH, that reminds me, I never checked my new to me but not the world Lester mags to see if they are marked TL or not.

[jlh3rd]

 when I had my '03 electra glide and was making trips out west, there was a company advertising this conversion. ( my harley had spoked wheels). I considered it, but didn't pull the trigger as it wasn't proven ...and... opinions from more experienced riders commented about the flexing of the wheel and spokes breaking the seal.
     We ( girlfriend and I) were on one of our trips out west and down in death valley. It was 112*. The direct road to the resort was under repair so we had to spend another 30 min. on the detour.
I remember thinking about my loaded down bike (two side hard bags, a bag on top of those, big bag on the rack, and a tank bag..and us) and glad I didn't do that conversion. I always wondered just how hot that rear tire was...

[TwoTired]

Sealing the spoke connections isn’t the only problem to solve.  Purpose built tubeless rims have a bead lock rail to hold the bead in place even when low pressures are present.  The stability of a flat is hugely affected when the tire bead wanders off the edge of the rim.  Normally you run a tube with a tube rim and tubeless tire,  and just about any pressure in the tube keeps the tire bead in the rim seat unless there is a blowout.
Without a tube, low pressure and a pot hole can create a sudden loss of all pressure when the tire bead wanders off station as there is nothing to mechanically hold the bead in place on a tube type rim.

Perhaps you feel lucky enough that road hazards won’t happen to your tires?  And maybe you always ride with maximum safety gear, to keep the skin attached to your body.

Something to think about.

[BallAquatics]

Lol  Thanks for all the input.  Since nobody has tried it, I guess I'll give it a go and let you know how it works on my '74 CB550 wheels.

[flatlander]

TT is right, the old rims of our CBs are not suited for tubeless.
here some pics of my new excel rims that have that inside edge that holds the bead in place: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,185154.msg2158838.html#msg2158838

your life, your health, your choice.
you seem to laugh it off, just be aware that doing this with the original rims and the method in the video, will not be safe.

[bryanj]

Also remember your insurance will find any way to wriggle out of a claim and whilst it is OK to fit tubless tyres WITH A TUBE, fitting one to a non tubless rim, no matter how modified, would be considered reckless unless you can get a certified engineer to report to the contrary. I am and i wouldnt!

[Tracksnblades1]

Also remember your insurance will find any way to wriggle out of a claim and whilst it is OK to fit tubless tyres WITH A TUBE, fitting one to a non tubless rim, no matter how modified, would be considered reckless unless you can get a certified engineer to report to the contrary. I am and i wouldnt!

Not even for $10,000,000.00 in a Swiss account…?

[bryanj]

Nope, cos the insurance claim would be higher

[BallAquatics]

TT is right, the old rims of our CBs are not suited for tubeless.
here some pics of my new excel rims that have that inside edge that holds the bead in place.....

So what holds the bead in place on our old bikes?  Not trying to be a smart a$$ or anything, but the tube is inside the tire and doesn't hold the bead in place.

I certainly don't mean to laught this off, I just don't see why it won't work with my old spoke rims. =:-(

[Rookster]

The inflated tube holds the bead in place with pressure and friction.  The bead is seated by inflating the tube.  Ideally you inflate the tube with the valve core out to 40-60 psi until you hear the bead pop into place.  Once the bead is seated you allow the air out of the tube.  Install the valve core and inflate to the recommended pressure.  The pressure in the tube pushes against the bead, keeping it tight against the rim in its seat.  There is also friction between the tube and the inside of the tire which keeps the tire from shifting on the rim.  British bikes of the 60s and 70s also used rim locks which push the tire bead into the rim and hold it there.

There is no real benefit to running a spoked wheel tubeless.  The tube and rim strip weigh hardly anything and are relatively cheap compared to the tire.  You can keep a bike upright with a rear tire blowout but it's super sketchy.  I've had 2 of them in the last 10 years.  On one the tire shifted on the rim and tore the valve stem.  The other was a tube that ruptured for no apparent reason.  A front tire blow out will put you down almost 100% of the time.  It's not worth the risk.

Scott

[Tracksnblades1]

Nope, cos the insurance claim would be higher

Good Man…😇

Unfortunately, others would at much lower incentives.
I used to use politicians to express the bottom of the bar.
However, journalists have now beat out all the competition
for the lowest of the lowest level…😩

Across the pond…

[Don R]

 My Lesters are late model TL's, they do have tubes in them now with tube type tires. I'll seriously consider running them tubeless when they get their new tires.

[TwoTired]

So what holds the bead in place on our old bikes?  Not trying to be a smart a$$ or anything, but the tube is inside the tire and doesn't hold the bead in place.

The inflated tube shapes the tire carcass and puts outward pressure on the sidewall and the tire bead seat holding it in place on the rim.  That’s how tube type tires have always worked. Air pressure without the tube in tubeless tire does a similar thing.  But, the mechanical bead seal is very weak.  Side forces or a pot hole strikes can nudge the bead off the rim allowing sudden loss of internal pressure, which allows the tire bead to wander about the rim unrestrained as well as the tread  If you lean at all, down you go sliding and grinding to a stop.  Tubeless rims have a bead lock to hold the tire bead in place on the rim when the pressure goes down, and pot hole strikes that bend the rim will still hold the tire bead in place on the rim, giving you a much greater chance of some control where the tread may wander, but not the entire tire carcass with zero internal pressure.

The only thing you lose with a tube in a tubeless tire is one level speed rating of the tire.

Cheers,

[Bankerdanny]

There is no real benefit to running a spoked wheel tubeless.  The tube and rim strip weigh hardly anything and are relatively cheap compared to the tire.  You can keep a bike upright with a rear tire blowout but it's super sketchy.  I've had 2 of them in the last 10 years.  On one the tire shifted on the rim and tore the valve stem.  The other was a tube that ruptured for no apparent reason.  A front tire blow out will put you down almost 100% of the time.  It's not worth the risk.

Scott

I'm going to disagree with you there Scott. The ability to fix a hole with a plug vs having to pull the tire and unseat it from the rim to remove the tube is a big plus.

[bryanj]

Not allowed to "plug" tires in UK has to be a big headed plug with stem pulled through from inside and cold vulvcanised

[MD]

Looking for manufacturer of a tubeless rim, not a converted tube rim, that will fit the 550F.   

Thanks,

-MD

PS ask a similar question two years ago and comstars wheels were recommended.

[Tracksnblades1]

Looking for manufacturer of a tubeless rim, not a converted tube rim, that will fit the 550F.   

Thanks,

-MD

PS ask a similar question two years ago and comstars wheels were recommended.

I’m not familiar with your 550f or the year.

In 1982, a friend of mine used the front and rear tubeless rims from a 1980 Kawasaki 550ltd on his drum brake 74 836 Honda. Kept tearing the spokes out of the Harley Style 5.10/16 rear rim. He used the entire rear wheel and drum brake assembly from the Kawasaki. We had to face the original Honda or Kawasaki wheel spacers a bit to fit the Honda swing arm. I’m thinking we trimmed the Honda’s down a bit to keep from spreading the swing arm. Thinking the Kawasaki’s would require drawing the swing arm together. Which ever way it was 40 years ago it was quick and fit like it was made for it. We may have done the same for the front but I’m drawing a blank on the spacers. Probably used the Honda’s with the speedometer drive. The Kawasaki front disc rotor had to be used 5 vs 6 bolts if I remember correctly. I was told the same could be done for the Honda 750F by using the 650 Kawasaki to get the rear disc and dual front disc. But never tried it myself or knew of anyone locally that did. The 550 rear wheel wore a 130/90/16 tire..

Some of the earlier earlier kz550’s wore narrower 3.75/18 rear tires..

[Alan F.]

There is no simple bolt-on solution. Having said that there are many possibilities but most will not fit your stock forks. If you are interested in swapping out your entire front end for something more modern (say 1990 and up) there are many possibilities. You just need to consider the amount of effort and expense that may be required vs. what you really want to use this bike for.