Topic: VP race oil package

[Don R]

 I stumbled on this deal and ordered one, free shipping, $217 with tax normally $450 or so. 12 qts oil of your choice, axle lube, brake fluid, coolant, detailer pack, microfiber towels, tar remover. click pro grade for full synthetic same price.
 A lot of stuff that's not for a bike but good shop inventory. If the brake fluid is synthetic, eeh.
https://vpracingfuels.com/bundle/racerpack/

[Tracksnblades1]

You’re not running CaseIH HyTrans or John Deere HyGard in your rear end?

[Don R]

You’re not running CaseIH HyTrans or John Deere HyGard in your rear end?
 
  The race car has synthetic 80W axle lube, the old comp setup used one quart of light oil. I couldn't find the double sealed bearings and went back to what lasts a long time. We can run one and a half seconds under the class index so longevity becomes the next hurdle.
  I'll likely use most of this stuff in the Firebird, it has a ford posi so the lube will be good but it won't chatter with my modifications anyway. I'm curious about the coolant and NHRA's rules.

[Tracksnblades1]

Interesting.

We’ve been using HyTrans in rear ends since the late seventies .
7-10w. It’s like taking the emergency brake off. I read about it somewhere,
One of Smokey Yunicks articles.

Never would use it myself. Until I was standing knee deep in a
dozer steering/rear end with over 30,000 frame hours on the ring, pinion, clutches, and reaction plates.
A 90,000lbs Machine used for ripping and pushing overburden.

Rear end, transmission, and torque converter, all swap the same spit. Which was Rotella T10
In this case. All the needle, Torrington, timkins, and ball bearings, steering/hil-low clutches, seals were replaced.
Pinion, ring, and planetary gears, were all within specs and used again.

Been using it ever since. Most all Agricultural tractors are similar excepting
the use of the manufacturer’s proprietary brand of hydraulic oil. A few years
Back, a few of the large articulated tractors still used 80-90w in their non oil
cooled Eaton differentials and planetaries..

It’s interesting the Eaton locking differentials are used in both applications….

[Don R]

 Pro stocks have been doing that in the rear ends for years, they grease the bearings on assembly and slap a coat of something on the ring and pinion to break them in. Then HyTrans or similar. they install new ones every few runs, I get new every few years. I've only hurt one R&P and that was when the kit supplied bolts backed out due to being too long. Now I use ARP bolts, red loctite and safety wire them.
 
  My Supercharged Alcohol burning friends get a barrel of Valvoline 70W engine oil and dump several quarts of axle lube in it to get more high-pressure additives. After a run it's milky with alcohol so they change it every pass.
   If nothing broke, they take it home and cook the alcohol back out later. A jug with a cloth over the spout and a warming blanket does the trick.

[Tracksnblades1]

Your current in drag racing, I’m not..
My only experience years ago with 9 inch
high impact 9310 type ring and pinions
were not good. At that time they didn’t live long
under any kind of power. When, not if…

Pennzoil was the sponsor back then. It’s GT formulation
was a milky mess when it was drained every pass.
90% alcohol makes for a good refrigerant running though
a belt driven compressor 😜. That’s a neat hack. Heating the
Oil up to boil off the moisture and methanol 😇

[Don R]

 We're under a thousand HP and 1850 lbs. so a 12 bolt Chevy with a pro gear holds up pretty well.
 I watched an engine masters episode where they used E85 instead of an intercooler on the dyno, it worked well to cool the intake and made power. I'm considering making the move myself, especially on the turbo bike.
 I got the VP box late yesterday, the wax and coolant weren't frozen. The tar remover was a little cloudy but mixed back in. I'm still a little unclear about the use of the coolant at an NHRA track or with anti-freeze. I may set a bottle outside and see what happens.
 I'm pretty old school as far as drag racing goes. Current guys run aluminum rear housings and spec gear sets.
   We still have a 1991 chassis with just a few updates. We consistently broke two frame uprights near the front, new ones lasted almost two seasons and a re-weld lasted almost one season. I made them bolt-in with clevis' and let them pivot. Four years now and I haven't figured out where I moved the weak link to.
 

[Tracksnblades1]

We used a half inch aluminum plate sandwiched
between a modified bell housing and rear of engine.
The mounts were under/over tube frame half circles.
Heavy duty muffler clamps held the over/under torque
mounts tight to tube frame to prevent fore and aft engine
movement. And allow for sliding the engine forward and
backwards for optimum weight transfer/balance. Once the
Ideal engine movement range was determined the tube
reinforcements we’re welded to the tube frame. Using semi
truck u joints and long Spicer splines, only two drive shaft were
needed for the extremes of engine movement. However with
some experimentation and experience with the equal length pan
hard parallel four link and coil over shock settings the extremes
of necessary engine movement and frequency was reduced.

What carbs are you planning on using on the drag bike.
I see the new larger RS type Mikuni’s have methanol internals
standard..

What is the octane rating of e85? Will it tolerate 12.5+ ratios?

[Don R]

 The carb'd bike has 29 mikuni's, the turbo bike came with a Zenith/Bendix that probably was stock for an ironhead Harley, I'd like to use an EFI throttle body on E85.