Topic: Mounting Tire Hints

[grcamna2]

I leave mine in the sun to warm up, not hard to do here in paradise:-))

Yup, same here.  I use Shinkos exclusively and sometimes I have to seek big honking compressor to seat the bead.

I mount my jeep tires too - bike tires are easy 

Edit:  I have only comstars to deal with now  - tubeless.  I really dont miss messing with tubes but for Dorothy I used baby powder everytime.

I prefer tubeless on a tubeless applicable rim;have you ever tried a tubeless tire(special application)on a spoked rim?

No, but Red's Comstars are not marked tubeless and I have to use special bolt in valves. Technically the 78 SS wheels were suposed to use tubes.

I know people did tubeless on spoked rims, there is some kind of a band to use - or duct tape afaik.

I wonder how those tubeless tire kits work on spoke wheels? The mid 80's Honda 450 Rebel has special spokes and rims that are tubeless:I like'em and would like them in the sizes for mine.

[PeWe]

Make sure that the tire is pressed down into the deeper part of the rim when bending the last part.
Professional tire wrestlers have a tool pressing it down.

Here enough with just a little.

This tire has a red dot.

[BenelliSEI]

+1 to what PeWe says above. I use a couple of the plywood scrap bits in my first post photo, to hold the bead down in the  “valley” opposite where I am pulling the bead over the rim.

If you look closely in PeWe’s last photo, you will see a raised line on the tire sidewall, just above the edge of the rim. When you are finished and inflated, make sure that line appears consistently around the rim. If it disappears below the rim at any point, deflate, break the bead in that area, lubricate and try again. Get it perfectly even, all around.

[PeWe]

Now after balance check.
I had to rotate tire for better balance.

So, dot at the valve is very dependent on the wheel too I suppose.
Most pros that had done my tires before did not bother about the dot.


I should have checked the balance before mounting the tire and maybe been able to place tire better from the very beginning.

[BenelliSEI]

Once my wheel and disc assembly are built, I’m going to wrap the tube (slightly inflated) on the assembly and then see where the heavy spot is. The Dot will go there…..

[PeWe]

That must be the way!
Marker pen on rim before forgetting where the heavy spot is

[Don R]

 That tire tool is amazing, I also polished my harbor freight tire spoons, bought rim savers and also previously cut up plastic coffee cans to make rim protectors.
  Lol on toxic baby powder, and they wonder why folks don't trust big pharma.

[CaseyH]

ordered a set from Fortnite and arrived nicely with the spacers.
Tubeless for my little 500 Ninja project so that will make them easier to set after install

Casey,have you run those Kenda tires in the past ?

I just noticed your post
This is the first time I tried them.
The size I needed was only available in the Kenda brand.
I have not had them before.
They look and mount great.
Proof is only going to be after the 2 feet of snow and winter loses its grip on us in Ontario.
I hope to take it for a few rides and then sell it.
At 6'5" and 250lbs I look a little funny on smaller bikes.
Casey

[grcamna2]

I've had very good results using Murphy's Tire Bead Lube,whether the rims are tubeless or tube type.The product needs to be spread around the inside edges of each tire bead and it will allow the bead to seat nicely when first filling the finished tire with about 40-50lbs air pressure to 'seat the beads'.I do this with the valve core removed for maximum filling volume,then re-insert the valve core after the tire seats fully:you'll hear a 'snap' on both sides.  The next time you watch a tire man install an automotive tire,you'll see what I mean.
BenelliSEI/John has mentioned in reply#27 that the sidewalls have a line all around the bead of the tire on each side which needs to be evenly seated the same way all the way around.

[PeWe]

Lots of tire lube is a must when mounting tire and the trickier, tire off.

Ensure that the tire sides will be free from rim, pressed together into center where rim is deeper so rim can move so tire can be lifted easier.

I have struggled too much when not lubing enough when trying to get the tire off the rim.
Risk to scratch the rim when finally go berzerk....

[dave500]

i have full size truck tyre irons,do em with a beer in hand.

[ekpent]

And if your doing a tire lets say on a new project and it has a steel rim and a very old tire be prepared and have the tools ready to try and get all the old rust slag off on the inside of the rim   I use a wire wheel on the end of my corded drill with some good safety googles. Don't forget to have your new rim strip handy also.

[PeWe]

I noticed that new D.I.D rims had very sharp almost burrs where it was welded together and grinded very rough.

I grinded the sharpest off and sprayed with the paint I had that matched,  engine paint.

Surface much smoother, no risk for tube even if most is covered by the rim rubber band.

I should paint old rims with rust inside after wire wheel massage.