Topic: Not Enough or Just Enough?

[Ellz10]

So I'm looking to save myself future time and headache by getting a general consensus here. Before I closed the cases, I place HondaBond4 all the way UP TO but not PAST the blue line marked in the picture. Same goes for its opposite side. Reason is due to what I read in HondaMan's book; I didn't want the sealant getting in the bearings. Now I understand that pressure from closing the halves will have dispersed the sealant past where I stopped, but I'm curious to know if I'll be alright in terms of oil leaking from not going all the way to the edge. I can't know for sure if enough sealant was pushed to to edge there or not.

Has anyone else stopped at or near where I did and end up with no leak?

[slikwilli420]

Go around to the outside of the seal on both sides. Don't count on it moving to places you didn't put any.

[Ellz10]

Go around to the outside of the seal on both sides. Don't count on it moving to places you didn't put any.

So crack them back open and redo it then?

[chickenman_26]

Go around to the outside of the seal on both sides. Don't count on it moving to places you didn't put any.

So crack them back open and redo it then?

Better to do it now than to find oil seeping from every external bearing and seal opening after you fire it up. And apply the stuff by smearing a thin layer on with a fingertip. Some guys apply it like toothpaste - which'll cause it to migrate to where you don't want it. You should see only a very thin bead at the case seam when its all bolted up.

[Ellz10]

Go around to the outside of the seal on both sides. Don't count on it moving to places you didn't put any.

So crack them back open and redo it then?

Better to do it now than to find oil seeping from every external bearing and seal opening after you fire it up. And apply the stuff by smearing a thin layer on with a fingertip. Some guys apply it like toothpaste - which'll cause it to migrate to where you don't want it. You should see only a very thin bead at the case seam when its all bolted up.

I figured as much. When I bolted them together, the next day I did in fact only see just a tiny amount squeeze out all the way around. Some spots didn't have any (so I could probably make it a point to apply more in those spots or have an even uniform layer all the way around.

Didn't want to have to reopen, alas it'll be better than "hoping"  it won't leak. Going to be a long night!

[BomberMann650]

My method of sealing case halves is to apply a small bead along the center - then use a finger to spread it towards the outside edge.  Leaving a thin and evenly tapered layer.  Do that to both halves before mating. 
After mating and bringing to proper torque.  I'll go around and clean the excess away.

[Ellz10]

UPDATE:

So I just got the cases split again and I've attached pics of all around the case edges.

Now I'm obviously no expert, but you can see that there's alot of places, especially around the crank where it looks just blotchy and I'm thinking I definitely did not put enough sealant on everywhere when I first did this.

Supporting that idea is the fact that there's some oil that seeped into the lining (see last pic).

Now I've heard that you obviously don't want globs of the sealant on there, but you don't want it too thin either. I thought I had put just the right amount due to when it dried, the next day there was only a little oozing out where the case line is.

Any input here fellas?

P.S.  Sorry about the crappy quality photos.

[slikwilli420]

Yeah that looks like uneven application of the sealant. I was using a q-tip and then went with the dab on a gloved finger approach which is faster and more uniform. I also never go on the webs that lead up to the crank bearings inside the case. Just around the outside. On the advancer side I always go around the outside of the main stud and then use the q-tip to put a TINY glob into the corners where the seal meets the cases on both sides. I have not had any issues with sealant pushing into the cases and if any pushed outside I clean up after getting the bottom half nuts/bolts in place.

[Rookster]

You are much better off using Loctite 518 for sealing engine surfaces that do not have gaskets.  The Loctite 518 never dries and if any gets into your engine it washes away in the oil bath.  I like Threebond/Yamabond/Hondabond as well but I stopped using it due to it being almost too sticky/thick to get a uniform surface.  The Loctite 518 is more like a gel and is easily smeared with a finger.

Scott

[Dunk]

Rookster this is the first I've heard of anyone suggesting something different for sealing cases. I wonder if anaerobic could be used. I use Permatex anaerobic (https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/anaerobic-gasket-makers-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-flange-sealant-50-ml/) when rebuilding ZF5 transmissions. There is no gasket between the front and rear half of the cases, and preload is critical on the tapered bearings. Anaerobic between the case halves. and never had a leak or failure from it messing with the preload.