« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2022, 06:24:04 AM »
Carbs should not foul up that quickly unless you have really bad gas or your fuel tank is in bad shape and rust silt is getting into the carbs. I would suggest you do the following:
Clean out your fuel tank. De rust it if needed and make sure that the inside is very clean.
Be sure your fuel tubing is routed properly. Many times the fuel tubing can cause fuel starvation issues. The tubing should be kept as short as possible and there should be no "n" bends in the line. One "u" bend is OK. The idea is to have no places where air can get trapped in the line.
Complete rebuild of carbs. All brass should be removed and carefully cleaned. Do not us "new" aftermarket brass. Keep the stock Kleihn brass and clean it carefully. Do not try to remove the brass metering jets the brass needles drop into. These stick up into the throat of the carb and you will more than likely ruin them by trying to remove them.
Carb bodies should be ultrasonically cleaned and soft wire worked into the internal passages. Pay particular attention to the air passage from the air filter side of the carb to the idle air needle and from the air idle needle to the slow jet. This passage can become clogged up with deposits and it will really effect carb function. After you have run a soft wire into these passages use a can of carb cleaner and flush the passages out and then use compresses air to clean and dry them.
About the only 2 things I can think of that would require getting new carbs is physical damage to the carb bodies from dropping them or being heavy handed or the carbs have been so neglected that acid has formed over a long time in the float bowl and eaten away the metal the main jet screws into and/or the fuel float pivot stanchions where the pivot pins can no longer function.
A further note. The fuel floats and their respective fuel float pins and seats should never be swapped/mixed. Keep each carbs parts together and separate from another carbs parts. If you mix them up you will probably have endless problems with fuel leaks. If you have already mixed them up take the plunge and buy new valves and seats.
-P.
Well said P.
The one thing I've found is the float valves should be replaced in addition to the cleaning of the carbs and derusting the tank(or maybe someone sealed the tank pooly and the sealer is failing, abive all, cleaning first!!!)
16011-329-004 is the float valves. You need 4 of these.....
#2 is the fiche number
https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/oempartfinder#/Honda_Powersports/CB550KA_(76)_550_FOUR%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_CB550K-1230001/CARBURETOR/f77665b3-598c-4e35-ad4b-7a873770e3e5/906a1415-2e5e-430c-9f5f-f7a37528e39f/y
« Last Edit: February 21, 2022, 06:25:58 AM by newday777 »
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Stu
Honda Parts manager in the mid 1970s Nashua Honda
My current rides
1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
1976 K6 Anteres Red rebuilding project, was originally my brother's that I set up from the crate, it'll breath again soon!
Project 750s, 2 K4, 2 K6, 1 K8
2008 GL1800 my daily ride and cross country runner
Prior bikes....
1972 Suzuki GT380 I had charge of it for a year in 1973 while my friend was deployed and learned to love street riding....
New CB450 K7 after my friend returned...
New CB750 K5 Planet Blue, demise by ex cousin in law at 9,000 miles...
New CB750 K6 Anteres Red, to replace the totaled K5, I sold this K6 at 45k in 1983, I had heavily modified it, many great memories on it and have missed it greatly.....
1983 GL1100A, 1999 GL1500 SE, 1999 GL1500A
