Carbs will need a rebuild too, dont buy the cheap rebuild kits you see online, instead use all the original brass if intact.
Definitely using the original brass if at all possible. What would you define as a good kit rebuild vs a cheap kit? really, I would assume I'm just going to use the gaskets/seals/o-rings and nothing else unless necessary. Who is a trustworthy vendor that stocks a lot for these bikes and tries to only carry good quality maintenance type stuff (filters, cables, ignition, carb kits, petcock kits etc...)?
I'm essentially new to these kinds of bikes, last M/C I owned was 25+ years ago and it was a 2-stroke dirt bike. I have never owned a street legal bike, let alone a 500lb beast.
That looks just like mine!
Go to PartsNmore.com for the carb refurbishing parts.
The rebuild kits I use are the O-ring kit #48-0791, the float bowl gasket #20-8035, and the float valve (if your old ones are not sealing anymore) #48-5009. These float valves have stiffer springs than the OEM ones, so set the floats to 25mm instead of 26mm to make the running levels come out the same.
If the velocity stcks between the airbox and the carbs are shrunk and won't seal in the airbox, use their #48-0759 boot to fix them up.
The intake air hoses might be really stiff and hard: if so, they will likely leak vacuum also when you put them back on. You can use the Oetiker clamps #09-050 (50mm) to close harder, just be careful to not cut thru the hoses then, as these are aircraft-quality and WILL let you overtighten them, easily, cutting right into the hoses!
The grease in the spark advancer cam is probably dried out and stiff, which will make the spark advancer wonky and sticky. Remove the 6mm nut and the big one on the end of the crankshaft by the points, and spray a little WD40 into the points cam there to start loosening it back up, then put those nuts back on. This will not alter the spark timing it last had.
A suggestion for the keyswitch: we moved many of then back on the frame to be just in front of the choke lever from the carbs, under the tank. This stopped them from getting wet in the rain, making them last far longer. You'll need the Honda keyswitch bracket, like was used in the original position, to move it - and the wires are long enough.
If you run into battery charging troubles (low charge), remove the voltage regulator's cover (carefully - don't break the rubber gasket if you can) and run some 2000 grit emery paper thru the contacts on the regulator. This will remove the silver oxide that grew from non-use and will make it work right again.
If you haven't put fuel in the tank yet: remove the fuel petcock's cover plate (2 tiny screws) and dab a bit of oil or grease onto the surface of the rubber seal inside. This will restore it once it gets wetted with gas again.
Does it still have the turn-signal beeper? I still use mine, although it sounds like it has a 'voice crack' 2-tone pitch to it now.
