Topic: Another K0 build for/by Magpie/Cliff

[Magpie]

Today I tackled the fork lock that didn't have a key. I like having a fork lock and one came in the extra bits that came with the bike. I was advised I could drill out the keyless one so after taking a deep breath  I started with a small drill bit drilling the tumblers out - no help. I went several drill sizes up but no luck. I figured at this point I had nothing to lose so I drilled out the key hole with progressively larger bits - still no help. So - screw it. I grabbed my trusty needle nose vice grips and went at it breaking the lock into a few pieces. Success! The replacement one,with keys, slipped right in,the cover went on and another piece of the project done.

[RAFster122s]

Congrats on the end result!

[BenelliSEI]

Funny how the stuff no one else will ever see, can be the most satisfying! Well done.

[MauiK3]

Good job on a fiddly part!. They have a habit of freezing up in there

[Magpie]

A pleasant surprise! I pulled the forks to change the chrome rings at the top of the gators and low and behold the top of the forks were in great shape and chromed. Usually they are crusty and rusty in my experience. Etched into them was "Forking by Frank". Now to get them back in! That's always a chore for me.

[MauiK3]

Nice CBX next to it.

[desertrefugee]

Yeah, just another old Honda.

 

[Stev-o]

Now to get them back in! That's always a chore for me.

I use a hammer and screwdriver to separate the triples and they slide right in.

[Magpie]

A strange issue, I'll start a thread on it. On a 1970 K0,the headlight brackets/ears do not fill the space on the forks between the top triple tree and the lower one. There is a gap from the top of the ear on both sides. The head stock bearings have been changed to All Balls tapered bearings with the thicker of the two spacers provided used, same as on my other CB750's that do not have this issue. I have checked that the races seem to driven home and even tried to tap the top one down because the top edge of the race sticks up a bit over the hole for the stem. The headlight ears are Yamiya repops and measure the same length as a stock one. Forks are from Forking By Frank but that should not make a difference.
The distance from the edge of the cup that screws down on the bearing to the bottom of the lower triple measures the same as my other CB750's.
The top triple tree appears to be in good condition but I do have fitted a spare one and the same happens.
I've had this apart several times and can't see why this happening.
Any ideas please? Thanks, Cliff.

[BenelliSEI]

Cliff ...... This has happened to me and is the reason I use the stock set up. Very frustrating! Using the thick washer under the bottom bearing increases the gap..... should’ve used the thin one?

Alternatively, if both top nuts engage fully and you can get it all safe and secure, add a large cross section “0” ring to fill the space and stop worrying about it?

[Magpie]

I swapped the thick spacer for the thinner one today and that solved the issue.  Thanks for all your input guys.   Now to true the front wheel, tomorrow's job.

[BenelliSEI]

Nice..... I keep three of the “thick” washers zip tied together, in my hardware bin,  to remind me!

[WideAWAKE]

Cliff -

That slight gap in the ears happens when swapping to a tapered bearing on XS650s as well.

That top race usually sits a bit proud of the neck tube.

I’m not versed enough in the cb to know if that’s a common thing as well but just wanted to share that is in fact something that happens on other bikes of the same vintage when doing a swap.

[Magpie]

You would think All Balls would know this and do something about it or add a note about it in the instructions. Cliff.

[BenelliSEI]

They actually do say to measure the “stack height” of all the components and then “calculate” the washers you need. They DON’T point out that their bearings stick out of the neck a lot , or other inconsistencies. It’s why I’ve reverted back to using stock races and balls......

You could also have run this topic in the popular “that pisses me off” Section. You would have received lots of agreement!

[Magpie]

Today's project, true the wheel, right after the honey do list.

[Stev-o]

They actually do say to measure the “stack height” of all the components and then “calculate” the washers you need.

They do, but by the time I read that the ball bearings and races were already in the bin!

[Magpie]

Got the up/down to .007" and thinking that's good. Now side to side.

[BenelliSEI]

Got the up/down to .007" and thinking that's good. Now side to side.

That’s perfect. 0.100 works for me!

[Magpie]

While waiting for the chromer to do his thing, some small things to amuse me:
replaced the oil pan because some po cranked the drain plug in tight enough to rip the thread out of it which meant the exhaust system had to come out to get at the pan. While reinsalling it I discovered a po had put 2 copper o ring gaskets in each exhaust port-nice work.  The oil pressure gauge was kind of crusty so a coat of paint helped that as did the bracket for the horn. There's a thread about going over the details. It's the little things that can make a big difference. I like it. Cliff.

[Magpie]

Tried my hand at some metal work today to eliminate a long stay for my Kerker pipe. Someone posted such a thing a short while ago which inspired me to try my hand at it.
The original goofy mount,


and the new look



I already see how I can make a better one. Ha! The photos make it look better.

[Stev-o]

Nice job...I did a similar setup on a K5 that I had a few years back.

[BenelliSEI]

Nice work..... makes it truly “yours”!

[Magpie]

Proved I was wrong about passenger pegs and a Kerker pip, the peg will go over the Kerker. It's an uncomfortably tight fit with the peg resting on the pipe in the down position but it's unlikely I will have a passenger on this bike. Cliff.

[Magpie]

Got the badges and trim on the Yamiya wrinkle tank. I like it!