Topic: K1 Hot Rod the Rat Race, new/old stuff.

[Don R]

 I thought I'd give the K1 its own thread instead of leaving it in the drag bike space. This is one of the bikes I bought last fall from the Drag bike guy I met at our car show.
 I just did a minimum of wiring repair, changed the oil, and mostly just what it needed to get running. I cleaned the 29 smoothbores and found a set of new adapter carb manifolds made by UPP. They were sold by Sudco. I found my set at Andrews motorsports.
 It runs and rides OK but the shifter stud hole is stripped out and it's difficult to find and keep in neutral. I have a 6mmx1 helicoil kit on the way.
 I also ordered a stock right control, the quick throttle is fun but it sucks not having the switches in the traditional place.
 I'm prepping the Lester mags for it so I don't have to wrestle with rebuilding these wire wheels.

[Don R]

 The frame kit and recovered tubes from a rust-out. Ugh in a close-up I can see red silicone under the chromed carb tops.

[Don R]

 I got it on the lift, shifter cover off and shift ratchet mechanism removed. The shift stud boss isn't cracked but the threads are loose. If it was a stocker I'd think about loctite stud mount and call it good, I'm guessing I'll run the stink out of it so I'll wait for the helicoil kit, I'm hoping to not have to snap the bottom bar of the insert off where it could go into the crankcase.
 After the fact I see there's a different type that doesn't have the bar on it.

[PeWe]

The silicone must have been seen as magical glue back in the 70's maybe 80's.

Those fiber gaskets on top and for float bowls on Smoothbores are still available but seems to last forever.  I have lifted my covers many times and no need to use replacements I have.

[Don R]

 I bought a 477 cid big block drag race engine in the 90's, it had sat for 10 years even then. That thing must have been rebuilt at the track with no gasket set. It had gobs of blue silicone in everything including the oil pump. Thank goodness for a good filter. The last I knew a couple years ago, it was still running, everyone that had owned it either didn't race a lot or didn't abuse it.

[Don R]

 I attempted to drill the shifter stud thread in the case, it just laughs at my drill bit. I'm in the house for new flashlight batteries. My thought is, maybe there's a helicoil already in there. If that's the case, locktite stud and bearing mount might have to do. Or jb weld used as locktite.
 
   Now, I look in the hole and there's a thread as long as a helicoil, then the hole is bigger all the way into the case, I'm sure there's a helicoil in there. Why the stud is still loose, I have no idea. 
 
   I was going to stack two cut down helicoils on the stud and screw them both in with red locktite, then hope it never needed to come back out.  F%$#. This sh1t ain't for the impatient and anxious.

   I'm laughing at me, that stud was wobbly but I tightened it snug and the thread didn't pull like every other 6mm in a Honda so it's a Helicoil in there for sure. I cleaned it with brake clean, dried it with compressed air, drooled red locktite in the hole, coated the stud and tightened it good. $35 and a weeks waiting but now I have a 6mm helicoil kit and I may be able to keep the barn rat in neutral when I need it to be.
 

[Don R]

   The shifter ratchet assembly is all back together, it always astounds me when I get it right the first time. The giant blown up photo really helps. There was an extra red/blue wire, so I looked it up to see what it is, pulled the neutral safety wire back out of the starter housing, put it where it goes and got a piece of red/blue out of an old harness for the oil pressure switch. It got a length of shrink tube so I can put an oil pressure switch back on the tee where the gauge is fed from.
   On the lift it shifts good, and I can find N from 1 or 2. Now I'm not afraid to take the long ride for a test. The oil in the tank looks clean but the oil in the bottom of the engine, not so much.
   The long-range plan is put the original K1 gauges back on it with the new right control and hook up all of the idiot lights. I love the velocity stacks appearance, but filters would be beneficial. A KZ breadbox filter would be a good compromise.

[Don R]

  I don't remember pulling the oil pan. I'll be sure that got done and the next time it's warm out I'll slap a plate on it and do a 20 mile ride. Of course nothing fast, it's still got old tires on it.
  A 140/80/18 Shinko podium tire is on the way. I still need a front tire to get the Lester mags on it.

[PeWe]

I have an Excelfile where I write all service like oil changes and various replacements. Date and odometer setting.
A service book is a must.

Several bikes need a journal to know when time to do things and check afterwards.

[Don R]

 You are very correct. I keep the service info info in the top compartment on my gl1000 but have been neglectful keeping track of the 750's. I realized today I've had plates on the 78 Goldwing for 5 years. I had the 79 before it for two years.
 
  I began to install the right control on the Hot Rod but the bars aren't drilled. I really wanted the early control so I swapped for a set of 400F bars that were drilled. The headlight is off and I found a decent swap meet wiring harness to rob missing wires from. The plug ins look new but someone hacked out a couple wires. I removed the sheathing and some tape, wiring is fun so this should be a blast to figure out. I might break down and buy a harness but first I'll give this a go. Originality is not a concern.
 
 

[Don R]

 I bought a 140/80-18 radial Shinko podium for the rear because I saw it on Summit Racing and I had an order anyway. I realize now Shinko has no 19" front radial.
 I had a 750 with a conti/goodyear mix once and it was a scary pig. Either brand matched was fine but mixed was awful. I swapped a tire one weekend and the other end the next weekend, that causes some concern but I did see some 110/80R19's so there may stilll be hope.

[Don R]

  I put on the new repro right control today, there were two wires extra after all was connected and I had no taillight. The wires were yellow and yellow/white. They appeared to be switched along with the headlight, so I connected yellow to black and yellow/white to brown. Now the taillight works on park and with either low or high beams. That way I didn't need the brown to black jumper. I should get in a ride tomorrow. It still has no left control or signal lights. I'm building wire wheels for the diecast so this might borrow its mags for a bit.
   My gold bike is taillight on whenever the key is on. I don't have an issue with that.

  I straightened the bent gauge panel and put the gauges back on the correct sides, the headlight ears are shorter than stock and I think the PO swapped the gauges to make room for the wires. I bent the bracket some more and added his washers to the mix. There was a nice chrome gauge back in my parts tote so I swapped it out. The speedo shows low miles but its a K5 set, so not original.
  It's difficult to rewire my brain to not keep putting things back to original. It's a Hot rod Don, stop restoring it.

[seanbarney41]

Nothing wrong with having nice, period correct parts on a hotrod...except when they get in the way of speed, or handicap the "more speed" budget

[Don R]

  True, it's probably going to need a re-ring but hopefully not a cylinder. The throttle tube was incorrect and held the throttle open, I dug out another one and got the grip swapped but it was loose. A dab of weatherstrip adhesive stuck it on, next time it will have to be cut off.
  It starts well if it's been run recently, if the carbs have dried up a bit, the chokes don't seem to help. I need to learn about the choke system of the 29 Mikuni smoothbores and maybe order some kits for it. It appears most anything is available for them.
 

[seanbarney41]

I have noticed that more often than with keihin,  mikunis often need more time to fill the bowls.  Also the choke plungers on these are mostly all shot by now and the rubber bits to rebuild the plungers are nla, but there is a guy in the Uk who is able to recondition them.

[Don R]

 Thanks for the carb info.

  I got the bolt in frame kit welded. When the triangle is gone and the new one is from a different frame it's a little more difficult. Sometimes welding is like painting a picture, the secret is knowing when to stop.

[Don R]

I have noticed that more often than with keihin,  mikunis often need more time to fill the bowls.  Also the choke plungers on these are mostly all shot by now and the rubber bits to rebuild the plungers are nla, but there is a guy in the Uk who is able to recondition them.

  Is this them?
https://www.z1enterprises.com/mikuni-starter-choke-rubber-seal-cap.html?msclkid=8e87f7f5bb6d11ec92425f6ae8f2db04

[seanbarney41]

nope, those are just covers that go over the shaft of the plunger that actually seals off or opens the enrichment circuit.  I think you are a member over at KZR?  see this thread, pg.7 for the choke plunger fix.  Those air corrector jets work amazing too.  Highly recommended.

kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992-air-corrector-jets-for-mikuni-vm-24-26-and-28mm-round-slide-mikunis?start=72

[MauiK3]

I had the choke plungers on my Z1 done by him, nice job.

[Don R]

nope, those are just covers that go over the shaft of the plunger that actually seals off or opens the enrichment circuit.  I think you are a member over at KZR?  see this thread, pg.7 for the choke plunger fix.  Those air corrector jets work amazing too.  Highly recommended.

kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992-air-corrector-jets-for-mikuni-vm-24-26-and-28mm-round-slide-mikunis?start=72

The link didn't take but I typed it and got enough info to find the ebay ads. Interesting. The air correction jet is also. Thanks.

[seanbarney41]

Well, I just remembered that the air correction jets are not for Smoothbores, only the oem Kawasaki (and big Suzuki) vm Mikuni's, as smoothbores supposedly are adjustable in this respect, although I have not found where that adjustment  is yet.  But, I will confirm the builder of these parts really knows his #$%*, as I used the air correction jets on a big bore and cammed KZ650 with carbs off a 1000 and pods.  After a couple mainjet tweaks, this bike ran AMAZING!

[Don R]

 I found this also,  I haven't had this beast running long enough to tell if it's running rich or not. It does start easily after it's been running, does not need to be warmed up.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162890295846?epid=1071975290&hash=item25ed04aa26:g:avQAAOSwutRgTDkd

  This thing has no indicators right now and I have a top stem nut drilled for a light but of course, I have not found the light or the drilled nut. A "key on" light is a minimum but an oil pressure light would be better.

[Don R]

   The oil pressure light is installed and working, the rear brake light is also repaired, I polished the taillight lens. The dead 7 year old battery (left key on) seems to have taken an charge and no ignition parts seem to be cooked.
   This Gerex is a hoot, it's like a model T, every time I turn the key on and off it throws a spark and when a cylinder has enough leaked in or left-over fuel to fire, it goes sshhfffftttt. I jump every time.

[Don R]

  I ordered a conti road attack radial front from summit racing, $130 shipped and a pair of 8.3mm valve stems since my Vintage cb750 order was lost and corrected after 18 days with a refund.

 Edit, the conti tire was here the second day. Summit does a good job of shipping right away. I'm not sure where it came from, but it came quick. I hope the TL valve stems get here by the weekend.
 I have a friend that does Harley work in his shop at home, I'll try him for mounting. My old Honda buddy was a little hard on the aluminum wheels dismounting them. I won't use him for tires again.

[Don R]

 I rode a few miles on the old tires, the Hot Rod motor sounds good and the smoking seems to be getting better.
  I also rode the nugget, it sounds like it has a tight valve or a sticky one, the exhaust makes a compression noise once in a while. I'm adding some MMO to the oil in case it's a sticky valve.
 The Sandcast got its legs stretched for the first time this year. Started hard the first time but ran great.
  I topped off the gas in a couple bikes, usually they sit full over winter. I know I pumped gas out of a few and replaced it with an av gas/pump premium no alky blend. They must have been ridden after that.
  The diecast has blue/green oil on the starter cover. It looks like the Amzoil 2 stroke I added to the fuel tank but I haven't been smelling any fuel in the shop. Curious.