Author Topic: FRAME RESTORATION TIP (Read 10559 times)

736cc · « **on:** January 27, 2007, 02:56:53 PM »

Penetrol paint conditioner. Rub it on your frame and wipe it off. You won't believe it until you try it. Works great on metal parts, too like chalky bolts and screws. Buy at any hardware or paint supply.

jevfro · « **Reply #1 on:** January 27, 2007, 04:57:29 PM »

thanks 736cc, I've already got some penetrol (works wonders in oil-based paints) and I'm stripping my 750K5 down when I get moved into my new place... I'll try it then!

grumburg · « **Reply #2 on:** January 27, 2007, 06:02:56 PM »

Quote from: 736cc on January 27, 2007, 02:56:53 PM

Penetrol paint conditioner. Rub it on your frame and wipe it off. You won't believe it until you try it. Works great on metal parts, too like chalky bolts and screws. Buy at any hardware or paint supply.

Works great!

jwhazel · « **Reply #3 on:** January 30, 2007, 01:17:49 PM »

Dumb question: Are we talking about just rubbing it in and wiping it off like the way you would wax your car? Or do you mean this should be used in conjuction with another task like if your actually stripping/painting the frame?

I ask because my frame is (IMO) in too good of a shape to really worry about stripping and repainting the original finish. But I have been looking for some simple way to restore some of its luster beyond just some soapy water and a cloth.

736cc · « **Reply #4 on:** January 30, 2007, 06:59:58 PM »

Its the absolute best way to spiff-up an original paint frame. Thoroughly clean the frame first for best results. Simply wipe it on with an old sock and chase it with another rag. Use it on the screws, nuts, bolts and washers too.

sparky · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2007, 09:28:25 AM »

What do you recommend for getting cooked oil and grime off of the bottom of exhaust pipes?
would this Penitrol work there or would it be bad for the beautiful finish?
Sparky

736cc · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2007, 09:38:36 AM »

EZ-OFF oven cleaner kicks serious butt on greasey pipes, frames, stands but will also strip aluminum and its clearcoat so beware. Wear gloves and work upwind, rinse w/ hose. Then polish w/ 000 steel wool and Mothers Aluminum and Chrome Polish.

sparky · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2007, 10:44:02 AM »

Thanks,
I'm looking forward to the spring so I can start cleaning again. $:-\$

grumburg · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2007, 01:11:20 PM »

Quote from: sparky on January 31, 2007, 09:28:25 AM

What do you recommend for getting cooked oil and grime off of the bottom of exhaust pipes?
would this Penitrol work there or would it be bad for the beautiful finish?
Sparky

I have very good results by spraying with WD40, leave a few minutes, and polishing with copper wool.

okie · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2007, 06:01:19 PM »

Well, I bought some penetrol and tried it today. The only word I can think of to describe it is 'MAGIC'. It really does wonders on the plastic parts like air boxes and fenders too. The first bike-in-a-box I bought was a '59 Cushman, (and it was only 3 years old) so I've been fixing other peoples messes for a long time. I can't believe I never knew about penetrol before today. Many thanks to you, 736cc.

SClay115 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 05, 2007, 06:00:04 AM »

Can I inquire as to what the Penetrol actually does? I am used to using silicone spray to condition plastic parts, sort of replenishes the shine. Is this about the same concept?

Steve

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #11 on:** February 05, 2007, 07:23:26 AM »

Having never heard of it, I Googled this, thought others might be interested.

http://www.floodaustralia.net/factfiles/penetrol.pdf

736cc · « **Reply #12 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:33:56 AM »

Use it fiberglass boats that have faded, too.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #13 on:** February 06, 2007, 09:07:29 AM »

This looks like interesting stuff. I've been using McGuires #7 for feeding old paint.

For those who have some experience with Penetrol, are there any issues with painting acrylics or lacquers after this chemical has soaked into the surfaces? Thanks. RR

jwhazel · « **Reply #14 on:** February 07, 2007, 10:44:47 AM »

I have to wait for the cold weather to let up before going out and trying this stuff. I was doing a little bit of reading on the subject and it looks like this stuff is made to be mixed in with the paint during the painting process. So with that in mind, how long does just the surface application last? Will it last a nice long time (years?) or does it last about as long as a coat of Armor-All on your dashboard (weeks)?

jonbuoy · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2007, 01:50:00 AM »

I like the idea of spontaneous combustion.... Might have to give it a try. Cheers.

chung · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2007, 03:17:17 AM »

Noooooooooooooooooooooooo, not the oven cleaner! BAD CALL grasshopper.

I'd hand sanded and polished a 1969 CB350 engine to such a luster that I had to detail the upper frame, wiring and bottom of the fuel tank. (the reflection on the top fin was like a mirror) and yes, it was a sand casting when I started.

I decided to remove the engine so I could paint the frame and polish the areas that were outta reach.

I got a couple cans of oven cleaner at the 98 cent store and proceded to spray it on some of the areas that I couldn't access with the engine installed in the frame. STUPID MOVE., Sorry, "ignorant move"

I didn't use any type of power tools back then to polish...... It took the rest of the summer to restore the engine to the state that it was in before I spent $2 cleaning it. Caustic sodas and acids are not very friendly to alloy.

Likewise, if the factory paint is intact, carb cleaner and some rubbing compound will restore it. But if it has been repainted...... A black mark on the driveway and several cans of paint will fix that Boo Boo

As for the carbs, I will indeed try the green goo. You can get some brass or stainless brushes for a Dremil that will "manually" remove the white rust from the carbs. I like goo. (when it works for me)

736cc · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2007, 04:53:40 AM »

Quote

EZ-OFF oven cleaner will clean the nastiest, filthiest exhaust mufflers, frame, sprockets, unbelievable. It will also strip aluminum covers. NOT FOR CASUAL CLEANING- ONLY FOR HORRIBLE THINGS. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.

toycollector10 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 27, 2007, 02:09:47 PM »

I have recently detailed my frame using Penetrol. Does anyone know how long this effect will last? The results were so good I'm tempted to splash it all over my old car which is looking a bit jaded. Bad move?

grumburg · « **Reply #19 on:** April 28, 2007, 05:29:53 AM »

Cleaned with Preps-All (same as Penetrol) and polished with Kit Scratch-Out. Looks better than new.

754 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 08, 2007, 05:35:30 PM »

Flitz Metal poilsh will take the oxidized hazy sheen of 750 frames very nicely.

I use plain steel wool and soapy water to clean pipes. I fail to see the use of abrasive cleaners unless you want scuffed chrome.

736cc · « **Reply #21 on:** October 08, 2007, 07:08:55 PM »

it just makes your frame perfectly happy

Johnie · « **Reply #22 on:** October 22, 2007, 04:17:00 PM »

I picked some up tonight and will give it a try on my 1970 restoration tomorrow.

Johnie · « **Reply #23 on:** October 24, 2007, 09:14:21 AM »

Yes, it does give it a nice look. I wonder if there is any difference from the Penetrol vs the WD40 already mentioned here?

754 · « **Reply #24 on:** October 24, 2007, 09:18:07 AM »

Nice look??..did you try Flitz.. looks like day 1 gloss when you finish..

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Author Topic: FRAME RESTORATION TIP (Read 10559 times)

jwhazel

sparky

sparky

okie

jwhazel