Cool. Everyone says you have a guide for chain adjustment an lining up the rear wheel and sprocket, can;t find. I may order some of that stuff looks good.
Ummm....that might be a distortion of the article I wrote on the misalignment of the wheels on the 750. The 750, after the very early sandcast bikes with the asymmetric fork legs, suffer from the front wheel being 3mm over to the left of centerline of the bike. This was [hurriedly] done to the 750 to meet the "production racing rules" of the 1970s era, where the bike had to be pretty much stock, like a showroom bike, to race in those classes. the whole story was like this:
Honda wanted dual discs on their CR750 debut at Daytona, but the stock forks only held one caliper. They made mirrorred legs for the K0 and shaved off a flat area on the front hub for a second disc: the first ones of these that came out in showrooms clearly showed the crisp machined surface where the new disc could be mounted. Trouble was, the caliper used was the same one, and the caliper hanger arm is slightly biased to the left, and the speedo drive had to fit in btween all this stuff. So, to fit it all on a bike using stock hardware (with a bit of filing of the "C-hanger" bolt bosses), the front wheel rim was relaced toward the existing disc 3mm to make everything clear. This change immediately produced the famous 'headshake' of the CB750, where going down a slight incline in lower gears, with very light hand touch on the handlebars, the head will wiggle back & forth. If you let it, it can get so bad that it will fan the stops. Honda's "fix" seemed to be to increase the throttle spring for the new GP-style carbs, so a rider's hand was always damping the handlebars (but, this is my onw theory). In practice, this works pretty well.
In real life, relacing the front wheel back to center will significantly enhance handling. Some riders have just aligned the front and back by 'tilting' the rear wheel (with the cahin adjusters) into line with the front: while this can work, it also causes side loading of the chain and will side-wear the sprockets. In practice, I have also found that under heavy throttle, it makes the bike crab because of the way it pulls sideways on the rear wheel assembly (especially noticeable if you have good, tight rear wheel bearings and sprocket hub bearing). Now, the caveat here is: my 750 makes more midrange torque than most: I'm not sure if a stock 750 would be so noticeable in this area...
In any event, the surest way to check yours is to use the string-gage method. Tie 2 long pieces of string to a rear spoke, centerstand the bike, put it in gear with the string toward the rear quarter (to get some elevation) to hold it there. Then pull the strings forward (through the centerstand) and support them, maybe on a pair of wood blocks with long nails, ahead of the front tire. Then, laying on the dirty garage floor, sight along each string to make sure it comes straight off of the rear wheel's side's (no kinking or bending allowed), right to the block. You will find that neither string touches the front wheel, if you have stock tires. But, you will also find (if your chain adjusters are equal in back) that there is 3mm more space on the right side of the tire in front (BTW, 'right' and 'left' are referred to sitting on the bike...). If your bike is a K4 or earlier, you will immediately also notice (if you haven't already) that the tire is off to one side under the front fender.
You can also check this spacing at the forks and front wheel: measure (with calipers is best) the distance between the sides of the rim and the fork legs. The legs are not a "controlled" surface (just a casting), so this measurement is not as accurate as the strings, but you will still see that the rim and tire are off toward the brake side.
