Topic: Scotch Brite pads

[The_Crippler]

Okay, this might be a very dumb question, but I really need to ask it:  when people talk about restoring bike metal with Scotch Brite pads, which ones do they mean?  SB runs the distance between yellow and green pot-scrubbers all the way through metal mesh sponges.  On one end, I'd think one end would be too soft, and the other way too abrasive on chrome.  Thing is, I've also read post of people saying "Yeah, use the yellow side" and others that say, "Grab one of those metal SB scrubbers and hit up your pipes..."


Long? Yes.  Rambling? Yes.  Still curious? You betcha.

[Frankenkit]

I use scotchbrite + mothers aluminum polish for things that need maybe a more gentle touch, or if I'm going for a soft, brushed look.  (or before I start polishing w/ 1000+ grit)
The key to varying degrees of scotchbrite was mentioned sometime a long ways back here- steel wool + aluminum engines = electrolysis and corrosion.  No matter how gentle you are with that steel wool while polishing side covers etc, odds are very good you'll end up embedding little bits of steel wool in your aluminum.  The two metals react badly via electrolysis and that's how you get some ugly blackish gray pits and corrosion.  Someone else can go into more detail, I'm sure, from a chemist's POV, but suffice it to say, scotchbrite will do what you need it to while still being gentle enough, in general, for most of the metal on your bike.

[The_Crippler]

Ha...I think you just proved my point.   

I guess I didn't phrase my question very well.  "Scotch Brite" is a not a name for a single product like "Q-Tip," but a name for a line of products.  If someone asks me for a Q-Tip, I know what to hand them.

On the other hand, if someone says, "Pass me the Turtle Wax" I'm going to have to ask if they mean their car polish, metal polish, dash board protector, wheel shine, floor wax, etc.

That's what I'm trying to figure out with Scotch Brite.  Which of their many products are people refering to when they say "Scotch Brite pad."

I've certainly heard people talk about using them on their cases, but you're right - the metal ones would be bad on aluminum...however, I can't see the sponges doing much good, either. 

[Frankenkit]

Ah.  They mean the pseudofabric pads like for doing your dishes or for light sanding work. Not the metal.
These:
http://www.industrial-supply-store.com/MMSB%207448||koNNbDu1z8hmU.php

[The_Crippler]

Awesome!  There we go - that answers the question. 

For the most part, my current project is probably going to see a good deal of the existing metal (pipes, sidecovers, fenders) powdercoated, so I'm really just looking to get the underlying surface rust removed.  However, the engine case itself I want to get back to shiny-happy again without damaging it.

[Frankenkit]

Start with 600ish and work your way finer.  The end should honestly be done with a buffer... probably the first couple rounds should be done with a handheld sander if you can, too, the pitting can get sorta deep.

You might want to have the chromed stuff you're having powdercoated bead blasted or somesuch.

[The_Crippler]

Thanks for the advice on the case.

The chrome stuff, I'm going to clean up and see how it looks...if it looks pretty enough, I might keep it as is.  Otherwise, I'm going to take it to the powdercoater and say, "How do you want this prepped?" and go from there.   

[Frankenkit]

Nevrdull has always done really well for me on chrome, in that case.  It can't save real bad pitting, but that weird little pinspot rust that happens? Gone.

[The_Crippler]

I'll check that out...might be a few surfaces I can save.  (Fairly sure the pipes are a write-off unless re-dipped, chrome wise.)

[Frankenkit]

you could scuff 'em good with a wheel or something and spray them with high-temp exhaust header paint... def. the low-budget option between that and powdercoating, but the instant-pipes kinda thing is def. points in its favor.

[The_Crippler]

I did the high-temp paint on my first bike as a teen...and it was okay.  In fact, I did some fairly cool tribal designs on there with it.  (I was a teenager, cut me some slack.)

Since I'm in no hurry to finish this project and can spread the cost out, I figured that I was going to go for quality this time round.  (Plus, I am debating on copper-color, and that would look better coated rather than rattled.)

And, sorry, I didn't follow you on the "instant-pipes" part.

[verboten1]

I use green for cleaning, and red for paint prep over good paint.


I also use the roloc discs for polish prep.

[Frankenkit]

I was failing at trying to find the word for instant satisfaction.

[The_Crippler]

I use green for cleaning, and red for paint prep over good paint.


I also use the roloc discs for polish prep.

I think that might have been what confused me in the past when I've seen "green" in people's posts - after all, the sponge in my kitchen sink has a green side.  Am I to take it that when I see people write that, they are refering to variations on what Kit posted above (colors coorisponding to grit)?

I was failing at trying to find the word for instant satisfaction.

Noted.

[Frankenkit]

Yes.  Got this off another forum:

SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish

[The_Crippler]

Fantastic.  Now I can stop feeling like an idiot.

[The_Crippler]

Oh, sweet, swirling onion rings - this thread bumped me to "Enthusiast."  What have I done?

[Frankenkit]

Fantastic.  Now I can stop feeling like an idiot.

Me too. I figured there was a correlation there, but your post made me go actively seek out an answer, and I like it.  I think this stuff would probably last longer than sand paper, too, which helps cuz I'm perpetually broke.

Someday, you too will be a crusty Old Timer, waxing nostalgic about the way the forum used to be when everyone respected one another, never talked politics, and other things that are totally untrue but make you feel better.

[The_Crippler]

Well, if I'm still posting at 104, then I'll be impressed... 

Also just noticed below your avatar that we share a bike model.  Good to know.

[markb]

Yes.  Got this off another forum:

SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish

That's the best stuff.  I use the maroun and light grey to give my covers the factory brushed look.  Lot's of work though.