Author Topic: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding - Plugs fouled  (Read 5593 times)

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Offline themrbruceguy

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1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding - Plugs fouled
« on: April 19, 2022, 09:19:47 AM »
It was almost 10 years ago when I bought this '74 Honda CB350F. It's gone in and out of use several times over the years, and when I can get it started, I have thoroughly enjoyed riding it. But due to 1) starting difficulties, and 2) odd sounds at 4k-5k rpm, I never did feel comfortable treating it as a daily driver. I have only put on ~500 miles in the past 10 years, but I would really like to change that.



My goals for this bike are as follows:
  • Get it mechanically sound to the point where I can feel confident that she'll start up each morning for my commute into work
  • Solve the odd noises in the 4k-5k rpm range (sputtering/stuttering)
  • Make it quieter, if possible

To kick this project off, I have the carbs removed and ready to be rebuilt. However, it looks like 4into1 is delaying their shipments while they move locations, so I won't be able to get their rebuild kits (https://4into1.com/set-of-4-deluxe-carburetor-repair-kits-honda-cb350f-1972-1974/) for another few weeks. Does anybody have other trusted suppliers who could ship quality rebuild kits? If not, I'm cool with waiting.

On top of the carb rebuild kits, I am also thinking of ordering these parts due to what I've read here on the forum:

While I'm ordering parts, should I also just bite the bullet and order these as well?

Regarding the loudness of the bike, my 4-into-2 exhaust system seems to be open. Based on the photo below, am I correct? If so, would installing aftermarket baffles help quiet it down? Or could I potentially buy something like this here to stick on the ends? (https://tinyurl.com/2p8h2yeh)





I would love to receive any of your guys' guidance / recommendations on what I should be purchasing / fixing in order to get this bike back into dependable shape for daily riding.

Thanks!
~ Jake
« Last Edit: June 08, 2022, 07:16:29 AM by themrbruceguy »

Offline wolf550

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2022, 01:30:24 PM »
I will be following this. those 350F bikes are really cool in my opinion and plan on getting one sooner than later.
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Offline MauiK3

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2022, 02:43:30 PM »
Try to find a 4 into 4 or maybe a 400f stock type exhaust. Not sure they fit.
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Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2022, 03:31:41 PM »
I've had a 350F daily rider for 25 years now, they are great little bikes. 500 miles in 10 years -- you need to ride this thing more! Letting the bike sit is worse than taking it for regular spins.

The 400F stock exhaust indeed fits and requires no rejetting, but you'd also have to change the pegs (with shift linkage), brake lever, and kicker (unless you rely on elec. start).

For the fork boots, IMHO the original fork ears (which had an upper and a lower, and were painted to match the side covers and tank) look way cooler. You can google image a photo to see what they look like.

In terms of the noise, have you done a 3k mile tune up -- points, plugs, carb sync, valve adjust? Hard to say what the noise is without hearing more, but out of sync carbs can make for some noise and rough running.

You should definitely keep the original brass from your carbs and only replace the rubber. Aftermarket stuff tends to be iffy, and this includes tune up kits with points and condensors. I think you'll find using oem for that kind of stuff is the consensus option here, but I can't speak to the spceific stuff you listed (although 4-1 has its fans).

Can't speak to the headlight conversion. I've considered it but never really had to (although if I do more night riding here in CDMX I might, as street lights are dim and sometimes non-existent).

I put a drop of oil on the round seal when rebuilding petcocks to help it move.

If you replace the gas cap rubber, make sure that the vent in the cap is open and functioning. If not, a new gasket will make a seal and fuel won't flow.

Dunno about the air box rubber, but if you need it, you need it. Getting the carbs and airbox off is a serious PITA with these, and takes some wiggling.

Dunno why you'd replace the coils if the originals are still working. They rarely go bad in my experience.

There are other otpions for exhaust as well, I'd go with Delkovic over Mac, but I'm not sure about centerstand compatability.

From the photo, you've got non-stock rear and front turn signals (the rear are obvious, the front have alonger stem than stock 350F).

I'm sure others may chime in as well.

These are great bikes. I rode home from work today and there is a stoplight just before a windy uphill section close to my house. It's fun to wind it up from dead stop, get in front of cars, and whip around the corners. And if you don't know already, these things love/need to be wound up, you won't get anywhere under 5k rpm but around 7k is where the fun is.

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2022, 06:03:02 AM »
Thank you for the feedback, all! Very helpful, especially from carnivorous chicken (love that name by the way haha). Also, if you've had your CB350F daily rider for 25 years, how many miles do you have on that thing? That is very cool.

Ya, 500 miles in 10 years is shameful. But hopefully she'll be ready for a nice season of riding after I go through it and give her a nice tune-up. I agree that the original fork ears are way cooler than what I currently have. I tore down my bike to repaint the frame in 2013 and thought I wanted to "cafe" the bike, so I removed the original ears. But I ended up not liking the look and riding position of the cafe setup, so I changed it back to stock, but I had lost the fork ears sadly. I may try looking around for some online.

I did check the points, ignition timing, valve clearance, and plugs back in 2017 or so. It's only been ridden a couple hundred miles since then. But I haven't synced the carbs since purchasing the bike in 2012. After I get the carbs rebuilt I'll give them a bench sync which will hopefully help. I should probably adjust the cam chain tensioner too while I'm at it. Sometimes it's a little noisy while riding.

Based on the photos from my first post, is my 4-2 exhaust open? I'd like to keep it for sake of my budget, but would like to quiet it down if possible. Any tips on how to do this?

Also, as I was draining out the engine oil, I noticed some very odd looking divets in the engine casting which is possibly a previous owner's doing. Could someone confirm that these marks are not stock? They look as if they were drilled out by hand. The bike still seems to function okay, which is good. But I'm not sure why the PO would have performed this type of modification (if it is indeed a modification).



Thanks,
~ Jake

Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2022, 08:47:06 AM »
The crankcase looks fine to me -- you need the two holes, one for the oil to get pushed in and through the filter, the other for it to return to the engine. Can't really tell with the second mark, doesn't look like anything to me, maybe a casting mark. As long as your filter housing seals I wouldn't worry about it.

A bench sync is a good rough estimate, but I'd do a proper sync with a tool once the carbs are on the bike to dial them in.

Fork ears show up on fleabay now and then, or someone here might part out a bike -- or on dotheton where people are still doing a lot of cafe mods. There's a 350F/400F group on facebook based out of the UK, and parts turn up there too.

I'm not an exhaust guru, and I'm not sure what make those pipes are --but there were a lot of different aftermarket slip-ons for these bikes since the orignial 4-4 exhaust were thin and developed rust holes pretty quickly. Can't say what's inside, but dunno how you'd get a baffle in there without drilling holes and chewing up what's in there. Jamming stuffing up there is a guessing game. I actually like the look of them, better IMHO than flared out trumpet ones or completely open slash cut ones.

My bike has around 40k miles. I bought it in 1997 when I moved to Phoenix for $500, with about 12k miles, so it's a little more than 1k miles a year. I lived in Boston and NYC for 2.5 years so it spent winters inside. "Daily" is a bit of an exaggeration, but there have been times when it is my only transpo, including now (although I also drive my wife's car), and I ride 2-3 times a week and will do more when I go start going back to my office regularly. Never taken it for long rides -- I've always had bigger bikes -- but just zipping around. When I bought it, it had crappy and rusty 4-2 pipes, so I bought a set of 400F 4-1 pipes. When I mounted them is when I discovered I need to change the pegs too, which set back the foot position about 6 inches. It's always had those clubmans on it, and since I'm not taking long trips and the pegs are set back a little, it's fine with me.

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2022, 11:39:26 AM »
Cool, good to hear that the crankcase looks alright.

I may reach out to some folks and see if any CB350F fork ears are available for purchase. Is there an area for "Wanted Ads" here on SOHC4?

Ya, it seems like the only quality exhaust that is readily available for the CB350F is the 4-1 Delkevic stainless steel exhaust. I don't love the look of it, but the materials seem to be of high quality, and I actually really like how it sounds. I may look into buying that exhaust sometime down the road.

Thanks for all of the info so far!

Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2022, 06:22:36 PM »
There are both a "For sale" and "Parts wanted" section on the forums. Even if you post something on "Parts wanted" it's worthwhile to check out the "For sale" because people who post things for sale don't always check the parts wanted, and vice versa. And there's the Facebook 350F/400F group (you can post parts wanted there as well) and of course fleabay and craigslist. You might have to wait a while to find the right color, seems like the flake matador red and candy bachus olive were the more popular colors for the 350F (Europe had a silver option).

I've heard good things about Delkevic, and people seem to like them. I've use 400F exhaust a few times (and switched pegs) but peg sets for the 400F have gone up in price (I think partly because people realized you can use them on 350Fs). I scored a (period) Kerker 4-1 for a 350F in nice shape, but am almost certainly going to use it on a project -- I have a couple bikes waiting for me in PHX and I have to figure out what to do with them, but I'm hoping to bring at least one here to CDMX). I've never been a fan of Mac, they seem cheaply made and the chrome goes quickly. There are folks who make 4-4 pipes for the 350F, including replicas of the original (IIRC), but they are $1200 a set for the latter and, IIRC, around $800 for the others (made in Europe). The 4-4 look great, but they're damn pricey if you're on a budget. I remeber someone here years ago used VW exhaust tips on the end of original headers, and he seemed satisfied with how they worked -- although they looked a little stubby.

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Headlight Bucket Size?
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2022, 02:37:49 PM »
Does anyone happen to know which headlight bucket size belongs to the CB350F? I am interested in purchasing a new bucket assembly drop-in replacement from 4into1 so I can run an H4 bulb, but I'm not sure which size is original to the CB350F.

This is what I have bookmarked, but 4into1 doesn't have the CB350F listed as compatible: https://4into1.com/7-halogen-headlight-assembly-gloss-black/

~ Jake

Offline krusty

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Headlight Bucket Size?
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2022, 04:20:18 PM »
The CB350F headlight IIRC is same for CB250/350 twins which are not mentioned in the list.
Honda
1976 CB750F1
1978 CB750F2
1972 CB350F
1961 C100 Cub
1962 C100 Cub
1959 C76
1963 C92
1964 C95
Suzuki
1963 M15D 50cc
1961 250TA Colleda
1961 250TA Colleda x 2 primed ready for paint and assembly
Yamaha
1977 DT175E x 2
1978 DT125E
1979 DT125F
1976 DT250E
1978 DT250G
1984 FJ1100
1990 FJ1200

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2022, 08:48:20 AM »
Thank you for that tip, krusty. Just got it in the mail and it looks to be the same size. Got mine from 4into1 and was the 6.5" headlight. Link below.
https://4into1.com/halogen-headlight-assembly-black-honda-cb650-cb750-cb900-gl1100/

I went through all of the carbs recently. Cleaned out all of the jets (which were filthy), carb blasted the bodies, replaced the gaskets with new ones from the 4into1 kits, but kept all of the original jets. I also set the float bowl heights before final assembly and then gave them a bench sync.



As I continue this project, I want to ensure that I will be sending clean gas into my freshly-cleaned carbs. I have decided to go with the vinegar cleaning method in the tank since it's non-toxic and fairly easy to do.

However, after removing my petcock from the tank, I noticed that my vertical brass tube has a long crank down it's length. While this probably isn't the worst thing in the world, it definitely affects the design intent of the petcock. My petcock rebuild kit didn't come with any replacement tubes (not sure if that'd even be possible considering how the petcock parts are assembled), just the screen filter and o-rings.



Would it be wise of me to buy an NOS petcock off of eBay? Or just run the petcock that I have already despite the cracked tube?

I also am kind of confused about how these CB350F petcocks function. When I bought the bike back in 2012, it only had one brass tube outlet (shown in the picture below) connected to the petcock. This outlet had the fuel line connected to it. It seemed to function okay whenever I rode the bike. But upon removing the petcock from the tank, I noticed these other two holes and couldn't help but think that these also were supposed to have brass tubes in them, is that correct? Maybe the two outlets are supposed to be connected to the vacuum lines from my carbs? However, an eBay listing for a new petcock claimed that these CB350F petcocks are dual-outflow. Which makes me think that these two outlets are for gas? I'm pretty confused as to what all of the outlets are intended to do. My petcock doesn't seem to match any other CB350F petcocks on Google Images or eBay listings. Maybe someone could help share a photo of their own CB350F's petcock and help clarify some of my confusion on this :)



Thanks!
~ Jake
« Last Edit: May 11, 2022, 09:36:35 AM by themrbruceguy »

Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2022, 09:03:56 AM »
OEM 350F petcocks can be hard to find and pricey, but there are some cheap knockoffs -- including some that have two tubes. I'd try to fix what you've got -- I think those tubes are just pressed in, but I'm not sure. Or if you run it as is you just lose the reserve capacity and have to pay closer attention to miles ridden on the trip odometer.

Offline nor_al_67

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2022, 11:56:24 AM »
I bought a complete new petcock for a CB750 on ebay.  I used the new 750 petcock internal parts to rebuild the stock petcock and it came with a new brass tube.  Doing it this way is cheaper than a 350F rebuild kit, and you get the brass tube.  I just used a dremel and cut the tube down about an inch.  It just presses in, but I used a little epoxy to make sure it stays.  The Cb750F petcock can be used, but it has 2 exit lines and they point down instead of toward the carbs.  I used a T to make it work, but it just looked hokey, so I rebuilt my old one.  BTW, the reserve inlet on the stock 350F petcock is below the mounting point, inside the petcock, it's a really small hole.  Make sure you clean it out, mine was clogged and would only let gas flow in the "on" position. The other 2 ports don't do anything.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2022, 11:58:18 AM by nor_al_67 »

Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2022, 11:59:10 AM »
I forgot to add: that's not as stock 350F petcock, for sure.

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2022, 12:40:34 PM »
I bought a complete new petcock for a CB750 on ebay.  I used the new 750 petcock internal parts to rebuild the stock petcock and it came with a new brass tube.  Doing it this way is cheaper than a 350F rebuild kit, and you get the brass tube.  I just used a dremel and cut the tube down about an inch.  It just presses in, but I used a little epoxy to make sure it stays.  The Cb750F petcock can be used, but it has 2 exit lines and they point down instead of toward the carbs.  I used a T to make it work, but it just looked hokey, so I rebuilt my old one.  BTW, the reserve inlet on the stock 350F petcock is below the mounting point, inside the petcock, it's a really small hole.  Make sure you clean it out, mine was clogged and would only let gas flow in the "on" position. The other 2 ports don't do anything.

Very interesting! Thanks for the info. If possible, would you mind sharing a picture of your stock CB350F petcock? Or maybe just a link to a photo that looks the same as your petcock. I did a Google search, but Google doesn't seem to be confident in knowing what the stock geometry for the CB350F looked like  :( And I did shoot some carb spray in the petcock body and used compressed air to blow out the lines, so hopefully everything is free now.

I figured that my petcock was not original after reading the eBay item description that said the original CB350F petcock only had 1 fuel outlet.

I forgot to add: that's not as stock 350F petcock, for sure.

Thanks for confirming the suspicion. Would you happen to have a photo of a stock CB350F petcock?

Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #15 on: May 11, 2022, 01:22:44 PM »
I don't have a spare here in CDMX, just the one on my bike. But this is the one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302030987427

But I also just realized I had a brain fart -- I was looking at the round part, which is here the bowl and filter go, and thinking that's where it mounted. Where it mounts is oval, like the one you have (and where the reserve tube fits, duh). You've got a stock one. GEt a rebuild kit and you should be good to go. I put a dab of oil on the rubber seal where the switch turns to keep it moving freely. And no, those two other "ports" don't do anything, they're not connected to anything and they aren't supposed to have anything on them. Maybe part of the casting or for a different application.

Offline nor_al_67

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #16 on: May 11, 2022, 01:32:49 PM »
Here's a complete 750 petcock for $12.99.  You get the tube, the screws and the internal parts and a new lever if you want.   The rebuild kit is $24, and you don't get the tube.   

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224467512959?fits=Model%3ACB750%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item34434e6e7f:g:qC0AAOSwIZtgpWjL


Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #17 on: May 11, 2022, 01:48:20 PM »
I don't have a spare here in CDMX, just the one on my bike. But this is the one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302030987427

But I also just realized I had a brain fart -- I was looking at the round part, which is here the bowl and filter go, and thinking that's where it mounted. Where it mounts is oval, like the one you have (and where the reserve tube fits, duh). You've got a stock one. GEt a rebuild kit and you should be good to go. I put a dab of oil on the rubber seal where the switch turns to keep it moving freely. And no, those two other "ports" don't do anything, they're not connected to anything and they aren't supposed to have anything on them. Maybe part of the casting or for a different application.

Awesome, thanks for confirming that I do have an original. That would make sense why I didn't have any brass tubes in those other 2 external cavities. I think you're guess is correct: that the CB350F petcock body has these two features because it was a shared part with other bikes that utilized the dual-outflow tubes. Honda must have had a quick way to switch from "plugged-up" outlets (for the CB350F) to "open dual outlets" (for most other 4-cylinder models).

Here's a complete 750 petcock for $12.99.  You get the tube, the screws and the internal parts and a new lever if you want.   The rebuild kit is $24, and you don't get the tube.   

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224467512959?fits=Model%3ACB750%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item34434e6e7f:g:qC0AAOSwIZtgpWjL

Dang. I wish I would've thought of that before I spent $14 on the petcock rebuild kit from 4into1... But this seems like a good way to get new brass tubes and repair my original CB350F petcock. I think I'll place an order tonight and get the tubes changed out. Thanks for the link!!
« Last Edit: May 11, 2022, 01:50:25 PM by themrbruceguy »

Offline HondaMan

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Petcock tube cracked
« Reply #18 on: May 11, 2022, 05:58:43 PM »
About this:

Quote
To kick this project off, I have the carbs removed and ready to be rebuilt. However, it looks like 4into1 is delaying their shipments while they move locations, so I won't be able to get their rebuild kits (https://4into1.com/set-of-4-deluxe-carburetor-repair-kits-honda-cb350f-1972-1974/) for another few weeks. Does anybody have other trusted suppliers who could ship quality rebuild kits? If not, I'm cool with waiting.

You're lucky. Don't use those rebuild kits, of it will run MUCH worse. I've had to 'fix' this on several CB350F/400F carb sets.

#1: use your original Keihin brass parts, NOTHING ELSE. ALL of the aftermarket kits have incorrect brass, most are Keyster, and will make the bike miserable to ride, if it even runs afterward.
#2: get rebuild kits that consist of just the rubber parts, and the float valve if yours are having troubles. If not, stick with the OEM Keihin float valves. Reason: the aftermarket ones all have stronger springs in their plungers, and this causes low-fuel levels in the carbs while running. If you already have the aftermarket type, set the floats to 1mm deeper than stock.
#3: If your mainjets do not have the tiny Keihin "K" on them, they are Keyster jets. In that case, they need to be 7% richer by the number than the OEM versions, as that is what the Keyster jets are calibrated to.


That petcock tube can be patched: I'd solder some 0.005" brass sheet wrap around that crack, if it were mine?
« Last Edit: June 08, 2022, 05:18:50 PM by HondaMan »
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Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Cleaning Gas Tank
« Reply #19 on: May 12, 2022, 07:07:25 AM »
You're lucky. Don't use those rebuild kits, of it will run MUCH worse. I've had to 'fix' this on several CB350F/400F carb sets.

#1: use your original Keihin brass parts, NOTHING ELSE. ALL of the aftermarket kits have incorrect brass, most are Keyster, and will make the bike miserable toride, if it even runs afterward.
#2: get rebuild kits that consist of just the rubber parts, and the float valve if yours are having troubles. If not, stick with the OEM Keihin float valves. Reason: the aftermarket ones all have stronger springs in their plungers, and this causes low-fule levels in the carbs while running. If you already have the aftermarket type, set the floats to 1mm deeper than stock.
#3: If your mainjets do not have the tiny Keihin "K" on them, they are Keyster jets. In that case, they need to be 7% richer by the number than the OEM versions, as that is what the Keyster jets are calibrated to.


That petcock tube can be patched: I'd solder some 0.005" brass sheet wrap around that crack, if it were mine?

Luckily I had read exactly this type of feedback on other threads and chose not to use the brass parts from the rebuild kits. I just used the o-rings and gaskets instead. Confirmed that all jets in my carbs are stock Keihin jets  :)

I don't have much experience soldering. Any tips on how you'd teach a noob to perform this soldering job well?



In other news, I've been working on cleaning out the gas tank since the carbs are nice and clean and I don't want to ruin those with dirty gas from a rusty tank. I chose to use the vinegar solution and had quite the surprise yesterday morning when I walked into my garage and saw that all of the vinegar had leaked out of my Gorilla Tape seal (held up fine for the first 30 minutes, but must have succumbed to the vinegar overnight). This left a huge mess on my workbench and ruined a couple hand tools, which was definitely a bummer. I then peeked inside my tank, and since all of the vinegar had drained, the inside was 20x more rusty than when I had started. Even more bummed. Here is the aftermath of the vinegar leak:



After getting everything neutralized, I took whatever tiny bit of vinegar was left in the tank, added some drywall screws, and shook it like crazy. Luckily, all of the additional rust that had occurred within the past 24 hours came out pretty quickly. After ~10 minutes of shaking, the tank looked a bit cleaner than it did originally, but it definitely still needed attention. So I dried the tank with a heat gun and went to work making sure to bring back some scrap of aluminum bar. When I got home I cut the aluminum down to size, drilled a couple holes in it for mounting to the tank, and sandwiched piece of an old bike tube (folded up) to act as a seal. Here is what that looked like.



I filled the tank back up with new vinegar (since all of the old stuff leaked out) and it looked like the seal was holding well. I got smart and put my tank over a 5 gallon bucket just in case it started to leak overnight.



After checking the tank this morning, I was happy to see that the 5 gallon bucket was bone dry. Looks like my seal worked :) I'm going to give it some attention tonight and slosh around some more of those screws, hoping to knock off any loose rust particles. After a couple rounds of this I will neutralize the vinegar in the tank with baking soda and water, give it lots of thorough rinses, dry it out, and either coat it with some Marvel Mystery Oil or go straight to filling it with ethanol-free gas.

One question: if I coat it with Marvel Mystery Oil, is there anything I need to do once it comes time to putting gas into the tank? Do I need to try and flush the oil coating out of the tank before adding gas, or is going straight to adding the gas no problem?

Making progress!

Offline MauiK3

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #20 on: May 12, 2022, 08:07:20 AM »
To solder the tube
Clean it really well.
Try to squeeze the crack shut gently.
I think you could use plumbers solder and some flux. Heat it with a propane torch to the point where the solder just wants to melt.
Put only enough in to fill the crack, don't want any inside the tube.
Check inside the tube to be sure you have not clogged it with solder. If there is some perhaps a close fitting drill bit can remove it by hand.
Clean the finished product very well. Try brake cleaner.
1973 CB 750 K3
10/72 build Z1 Kawasaki

Offline bek1966

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #21 on: May 12, 2022, 12:43:04 PM »
Following along with great interest.  Thanks for sharing your project.

Brad
1971 CB750 K1 - Candy Gold
1971 CB500 K0 - Star Light Gold
1974 CB350 F1 - Glory Blue Black

Pleasant Prairie, Wisconsin

Offline WhyNot2

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2022, 05:07:34 AM »
Nice project.

I keep having carb issues. I think electrical too.

But, I have 6 other bikes I'm trying to build as well.
If it ain't raining, I'm riding.....~~{iii}?~~prost

If it sounds like I know what I'm talking about, it's because I cut and pasted from someone else.

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Fixin' Her Up for Daily Riding
« Reply #23 on: May 13, 2022, 11:39:39 AM »
I still haven't made up my mind if I want to attempt fixing the petcock tube or leave it as-is. I am probably leaning more towards leaving it as-is and just making sure to keep an eye on the trip meter to ensure I don't run out of gas.

I also dumped out all of the vinegar that had been soaking in my tank for ~36 hours and had great success! Take a look at all of the crap that came out of my tank. So thankful that none of it will be going through my newly cleaned carbs. I'm giving the tank a 2nd round of soaking in vinegar, after which I will either repair the petcock or just replace the seals and install it.



The project is coming along! Hoping to get the tank all wrapped up over the weekend, install my combo regulator/rectifier unit, and my new headlight bucket w/ LED H4 bulb. I'm curious to see how that performs compared to the stock sealed bulb.

Thanks for all of the advice so far!

Offline themrbruceguy

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Re: 1974 CB350F - Advice needed on turn signals
« Reply #24 on: May 16, 2022, 12:56:01 PM »
I cleaned out my tank's 2nd application of vinegar. After draining the vinegar, I quickly neutralized the acid with baking soda and water and gave the tank several rinses to make sure that everything was cleaned out. I then used my heat gun to dry out the inside of the tank which worked very well. I did end up getting some areas that flash rusted, but all in all it is much better than before. No chunks of rust or metal flakes floating around anymore! My carbs will thank me. I rebuilt the petcock, drove the tank (in my car) to the nearest ethanol-free gas station, and filled her up. The gas shouldn't have to sit for too long since I plan on getting the bike back on the road next week.

I also got my regulator/rectifier combo unit installed today too. I am keeping the stock components in a labeled box just in case I decide to toss them back in for whatever reason.

I am now starting to look at getting my bike back to stock (cosmetically), which means I need to purchase the following items:
 - Lower fork leg covers
 - Upper fork leg covers / headlight brackets
 - Reflectors
 - Stock rear turn signals

I have already placed some best offers on eBay for the first 3 items, which leaves the stock rear turn signals. I am facing a dilemma though. Right after I bought this back in 2012, I accidentally knocked my leg against the rear left turn signal (while dismounting) and ended up snapping off the mounting tab from the grab rail. My dad's buddy welded on a new tab, but instead of putting the stock turn signals back on, we installed some tiny LED turn signals which only needed one hole (see photo below of these tiny LED signals). Now that I am wanting to go back to stock, I am wondering if I can make the DIY mounting tab work with the two holes that the stock turn signals used.



Could anybody help measure the distance between these two holes on the rear turn signals for the CB350F? Again, just to make sure that my DIY tab has enough real estate to fit a 2nd hole that is needed for the stock turn signals.



It also looks like the original turn signals were bolted through a metal bracket that used some sort of rubber spacer/dampener. I no longer have either of these parts which means I would probably have to try and fabricate my own. Would anybody happen to have these parts laying around and would be willing to sell them to me? I'm worried that I won't be able to properly mount the turn signals even if I could find some OEM rear turn signals and have enough room to drill the 2nd hole in the grab rail tab.

Thanks,
~ Jake
« Last Edit: May 16, 2022, 12:58:11 PM by themrbruceguy »