Topic: Anyone sprayed flake paint?

[Kevnz]

Hi All,
The flake paints like Flake sunrise and Flake Turquoise use metallic particles that are larger than those used in " metallic" colours. Are there any special techniques involved in spraying flake? Does it go through a standard gun nozzle, or have any tendency to block? Any tendency for the flakes to stand up with regard to the direction of spray? Thinking of customizing a spare tank with some form of Boss Maroon, but with larger flakes.
Thanks,
Kevin

[Don R]

 I've been told the air pressure and gun angle can make a difference how the flake lays so be sure to paint everything at once. I think some of the old pros even had a cup stirrer that kept it from settling in the cup.

[pjlogue]

I am no expert but have done a fair bit of autobody painting.  The metal flake, unless using large flake, will go through most nozzles.  A couple of things to keep in mind when using any metallic spray paint is you need to keep it mixed all the time and  ANY contaminant on your surface will act to change the surface tension of the paint in that area and will really show up in the finished product.  The change in surface tension changes the metal flake orientation.  I found that the finer the metal particle, the more this happens.  This defect is called "frog eye blemish"

I have found that the candy metallic 3 stage paints are difficult to get exactly right as far as color.  The Base coat color, thickness of application and even color of the primer all combine to effect the color of the final outcome.  When I repainted my GL1000 and tried to match the original '76 LTD maroon color it was very difficult and found I had a new respect for professional paint shops.  The equipment they use, the actual clean room quality paint booths and especially the knowledge, which takes years to acquire, justify the prices they will charge.  I was quoted $1,400 for tank and side covers from a place that did show quality painting.  At the time I thought the guy was nuts to charge that.  After repainting the tank and covers myself, I understood why his prices were so high and they are justified. 

You can do a decent job of repainting a tank yourself and it will look real good if you are careful and take your time.  If you are looking for a restoration/show quality job, save yourself a lot of time and anguish and get it painted from a professional. 

-P.

[jgger]

A friend of mine painted his car with a metallic paint and sprayed the hood and fenders at the same time. When he put the fenders on the car one looked slightly different than the rest. After talking to different paint guys he figured out why. The fenders were laid out headlight to headlight when he sprayed them. Turns out that the metal picks up static electricity while being shot from the gun and was acting like a compass when it settled on the parts. So when the light hit the different pieces on the car the flakes were basically oriented different directions so it made the color look slightly different. He said the solution is to face all the pieces the same way they will be installed, like all the fronts facing north. Has anyone else heard of this happening?

[cooldrum]

I have used the VMR paints.  Sunrise flake Orange and it came out pretty good for my side covers on my K4.  I just ordered the rattle can version or you can order what you need for your paint gun.  The key is careful prep and be patient when applying coats.  Less is more even if you have to wait for the  paint to dry before laying down another one.  Close to pro quality and you can do it on your own time, not waiting on the shop's timetable and cost (if you want a Concours finish)

[Kevnz]

Thanks for the input, Guys. Pretty much as I expected, but good to know about the static. Possibly not such an issue on small bike parts. If I make a stuff up, it's easy enough to sand back and start again.
Thanks,
Kevin
BTW, I'm just doing a 4th tank for the PO of my 500. Including repairs, they take about 40-50 hrs and about $200 in materials including the decals. Even at a meagre $20\hr you're looking at over $1K and I bet a proffesional shop wouldn't last long at that charge out rate. Lucky for PO I'm not charging.

[Tim2005]

I'd like to try this too. One question- what do you do about decals with flake paint? Is it going to be too course a surface to fit them on directly, would you need to lacquer first?

[Kevnz]

Obviously I can't comment yet, but I'd be inclined to put a couple of coats of clear on over the flake and then flat off with 1200-1500 grit before applying decals, and then clearcoat over that. One thing I have discovered; when applying the final clearcoats over the decals, do a couple of light coats over the decals themselves and let them flash off before doing the final wet coats. Heavy wet coats first can get beneath the decals and make them blister.

[pjlogue]

Obviously I can't comment yet, but I'd be inclined to put a couple of coats of clear on over the flake and then flat off with 1200-1500 grit before applying decals, and then clearcoat over that. One thing I have discovered; when applying the final clearcoats over the decals, do a couple of light coats over the decals themselves and let them flash off before doing the final wet coats. Heavy wet coats first can get beneath the decals and make them blister.

Letting the fresh paint/clear coat outgas is a must before applying any decals.  In a three step painting, this necessitates a light abrasion sanding to the coat the decals are going on top of since the "recoat' window will have long passed due to letting the paint outgas. 

-P.