Topic: K1 late model - Winton Kit

[Stev-o]

Doesn't Roush have a museum around Plymouth? 

Yes, The Roush Collection in Livonia...
[west side of Detroit]

https://www.roushcollection.com/

[Shtonecb500]

I found a k1 rear fender and  taillight, front fender, and cleaned, greased and polished two sets of caliper brackets/pivot arms. I have one brake caliper, need to source another one. I had a set of aftermarket controls left and right, couldn't get them to work with other bikes so ill take my shot at this one as well, thought i had two throttle cables that fit but Ill extend them an inch later this week.

I got to show Phil pictures of the K1, he identified the rear hub as a Kosman flat track/dirtbike quick change sprocket/rotor rear hub, he recognized it right away from racing when he was younger. He suggested that I take the rear rotor to a machine shop and have them take off some material and resurface it rather than taking material off the caliper bracket, the holes that are drilled in that bracket are very close to the edge where material would have to come off so that wouldn't work. Ill get the rotor machined. He recognized the rear caliper too but i forgot what he said...it might actually be the same brand as the rear master cylinder.
The rims are Akront i finally found that on the rim, found a stock sealed beam bulb at the shop that wasn't broken, forgot the mudguard at the shop.
As soon as i told him i wanna keep it and not sell he started giving the stuff i needed to make it whole again.

Im Going to be selling the nice wheel and front end set from my cb550 to recoup investment for this K1/fund anything else for it. Ill have a listing up shorty...hopefully someone local with want them, I got them shipped from california, #$%* shipping lol.

Since the tank, headlight bucket and ears are all their own shade of brown, Im going to order candy garnett from VMR paints and paint a couple side covers and slap them on, all the body work will be close but not exact...it should work out.

[grcamna2]

Yes,that's a nice bike,glad you're keeping it;you can finish this project bike 

Was this bike actually owned by Winton himself,the one who designed the bodywork ?

[Shtonecb500]

Yes,that's a nice bike,glad you're keeping it;you can finish this project bike 

Was this bike actually owned by Winton himself,the one who designed the bodywork ?

he owned this one, have the original title, he designed and made it all himself too i was told.

[Kevin D]

Doesn't Roush have a museum around Plymouth? 

Yes, The Roush Collection in Livonia...
[west side of Detroit]

https://www.roushcollection.com/

It’s just west of the Ford Transmission plant on Plymouth road.
They always have a party there on the Thursday preceding MIS NASCAR weekend.
Music food autographs cars

Roush Collection & Retail Store
11789 Market St.
Livonia, Michigan 48150
Store & Museum Hours M-F 9:30 AM - 4 PM  734-779-7290

August 4th (Thursday)
Open House & Cruise-in
5:00 PM - 8:00 PM

[grcamna2]

I know an engineering friend in St. Clair Shores,Mi. who I asked and he said he used to work with Winton Goelz  at American Sunroof in the downriver area a while back.
He told me Winton is the styling manager at International Harvester Ft. Wayne,Ind.,last he knew.
Do you think he passed away by now ?

[newday777]

What's that square red piece on top of the rear master cylinder ?

Reservoir fill bung. They are plastic.

[Shtonecb500]

Body

edit: I kinda like the lines on this thing, maybe another color scheme would make it pop, I wonder if my cbr F2- 750 with white mags would look good with this kit on it?

[Shtonecb500]

I like those rear shocks,very custom looking.
That rear caliper looks high quality and hope you can adjust/machine the caliper brackets to give the pads full contact with the entire swept area of the rotor.
What's that square red piece on top of the rear master cylinder ?

the rear caliper is also a hurst airheart rear brake caliper...It looks like it could have been the same caliper used on harley panheads....or there was one on a panhead and i found a listing for it, found a caliper mount as well listed for a panhead. I haven't found the exact model kosman rear hub tho.

[grcamna2]

They are good pictures showing the fiberglass body section.

[Shtonecb500]

Removed the broken unicorn triple and installed a new one, cleaned up the back of the gauges, headlight ring, and the right fork chrome ring above the gator with #0000 wool, oiled the tach and speedo cables, Looks like the stock clutch cable, might need a shorter one .I have a set of black low profile renthals I could put on there that may make that cable work, I have new throttle cables coming, Cleaned the rear MC, bled rear brake and I have nice pressure at the pedal. I oiled the fasteners for the rotor before I attempt them, then I'll take the rotor to a machine shop and get it resurfaced and shaved down....when the brake caliper is not hooked up the rear wheel and chain roll wonderfully. I found a little valve behind the pipe fittings and im not really sure what its for...when i press on the valve stem I dont get the hissing air sound, its like there is no pressure in the shocks but there is for sure.

I did a compression test on number 1 and 4, dry they came back 30-40 psi, I sprayed some wd-40 and they both hit 150 using the kick start only no cables or throttle  hooked up yet.  Number 4 spark plug was incredibly tight but the threads looked perfect so I oiled it up before I put it back in and it helped, they didnt look bad in color, some light brownish and some black ring around he endge.  I think i'm going to make a new limiter for the shocks, I want more range, i know they are at the low setting right now. I put on shorty front turn signals and replaced the busted bulb in the headlight with another sealed beam unit that was not broken. Everything up front is on nice and tight and I didn't break my unicorn triple, I have a set of aftermarket controls on  the bars right now, and some black barrel grips. This thing really isnt that far from attempting a start.


I have a david dixon 4-1 yoshi pipe, its either real or a replica, but its goin on this build...the proof should be in the sound, right?

[69cb750]

Winton Goelz passed away November 09, 2021, obituary - https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/news-herald/name/winton-goelz-obituary?id=31534633

Photos - https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=Winton+Goelz+Jr&client=firefox-b-1-d&fir=wB1depBokfCd_M%252C2-7RiG74xdigRM%252C_%253BPNEsel13Pl1ygM%252CUv8Tpu9bW630rM%252C_%253BnmDOOjm--6-TSM%252CUv8Tpu9bW630rM%252C_%253BRkz2MA2pfQ3B2M%252CUv8Tpu9bW630rM%252C_%253BVkc3oYvTHZf2oM%252CUv8Tpu9bW630rM%252C_%253BHQ4F4hgA2ZbYeM%252C2-7RiG74xdigRM%252C_%253BEC6ikPPWucL5qM%252C2-7RiG74xdigRM%252C_%253BGUFKr4gk6QMzyM%252CSg1qqOpix7cMcM%252C_%253Buk70qwRtzneF_M%252CUv8Tpu9bW630rM%252C_%253BIFfp9pB5Ik96lM%252C2-7RiG74xdigRM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kTLGDiDjejaPSx6cyx161AOYmU7Ow&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj5tpfblfz4AhUbjIkEHQ8vA9YQjJkEegQICBAC&biw=1280&bih=899&dpr=1#imgrc=wFaTldilVuTcgM

[grcamna2]

Good

removed the broken unicorn triple and installed a new one, cleaned up the back of the gauges, with #0000 wool, oiled that tach and speedo cables, the chrome handlebar the bike came with are a little short so the clutch cable is a little too long...I have a set of black low profile renthals i could put on there that may make that cable work, i have new throttle cables coming. Cleaned the rear MC, bled rear brake and I have nice pressure at the pedal. I oiled the fasteners for the rotor before I attempt them, then I'll take the rotor to a machine shop and get it resurfaced and shaved down....when the brake caliper is not hooked up the rear wheel and chain roll wonderfully. I found a little valve behind the pipe fittings and im not really sure what its for...when i press on the valve stem I dont get the hissing air sound, its like there is no pressure in the shocks but there is for sure.

I did a compression test on number 1 and 4, dry they came back 30-40 psi, I sprayed some wd-40 and they both hit 150. Number 4 spark plug was incredibly tight but the threads looked perfect so I oiled it up before I put it back in and it helped, they didnt look bad in color, some light brownish and may.  I think i'm going to make a new limiter for the shocks, I want more range. I put on shorty front turn signals and replaced the busted bulb in the headlight with another sealed beam unit that was not broke. Everything up front is on nice and tight and I didn't break my unicorn triple.


I have a david dixon 4-1 yoshi pipe, its either real or a replica, but its goin on this build...the proof should be in the sound, right?

Good progress.
Would like to know how the fiberglass tank/seat:how the open space at the front of the fiberglass tank is able to allow the top frame tube to slide through it;does a fiberglass section remove from the front of that tank?

[Shtonecb500]

Good

removed the broken unicorn triple and installed a new one, cleaned up the back of the gauges, with #0000 wool, oiled that tach and speedo cables, the chrome handlebar the bike came with are a little short so the clutch cable is a little too long...I have a set of black low profile renthals i could put on there that may make that cable work, i have new throttle cables coming. Cleaned the rear MC, bled rear brake and I have nice pressure at the pedal. I oiled the fasteners for the rotor before I attempt them, then I'll take the rotor to a machine shop and get it resurfaced and shaved down....when the brake caliper is not hooked up the rear wheel and chain roll wonderfully. I found a little valve behind the pipe fittings and im not really sure what its for...when i press on the valve stem I dont get the hissing air sound, its like there is no pressure in the shocks but there is for sure.

I did a compression test on number 1 and 4, dry they came back 30-40 psi, I sprayed some wd-40 and they both hit 150. Number 4 spark plug was incredibly tight but the threads looked perfect so I oiled it up before I put it back in and it helped, they didnt look bad in color, some light brownish and may.  I think i'm going to make a new limiter for the shocks, I want more range. I put on shorty front turn signals and replaced the busted bulb in the headlight with another sealed beam unit that was not broke. Everything up front is on nice and tight and I didn't break my unicorn triple.


I have a david dixon 4-1 yoshi pipe, its either real or a replica, but its goin on this build...the proof should be in the sound, right?

Good progress.
Would like to know how the fiberglass tank/seat:how the open space at the front of the fiberglass tank is able to allow the top frame tube to slide through it;does a fiberglass section remove from the front of that tank?

It looks like the middle section still needs to be cut out, they got one ceramic coating on  it but the seams still need to be sanded down and the edges finished. I don't think it can fully slip onto a frame just yet. I need to watch some more youtube videos on fiberglass and stuff before i try anything.

[Shtonecb500]

are any of these what i need for a dual disc for this thing? Ive found a couple threads talking about shaving off the boss where it mates to the lower mount but ive heard that before for the later models with the "T" style brackets, I was ale to avoid shaving material, just wondering if it can be avoided on this model.

I got the hooker exhaust off the bike, sure wish this thing had baffles, would prolly re chrome it if it did. I wonder if it was tuned with this exhaust?
installed the david dixon yoshi pipe, might get it ceramic coated eventually, took off the points cover cause it was still really nice, set it with the tank and seat.

needs install: mudguard, front fender, dual side caliper, chrome handle bars, new throttle cables, new clutch cable, fresh oil, polish hubs, spokes, sprocket, new limit adjusters for the air shocks, correct length turn signals on the front, recover donor seat.

[Shtonecb500]

I just noticed the forks dont have the small reflector, they have no hole at all.

Edit: Ive been thinking that this was probably the best entry into a K1 for me and might become a good investment. I have a set of nice forks that are the same model that came on a 750F roller, I think I'm going to pull the entire K1 front end and keep it in storage (keep the fork ears, gators and headlight safe) with the tank and original seat. I ordered that combo on ebay foam, seat cover plus strap and I can run the candy gold kit instead. I break and mess up so much #$%*, I would hate to screw up any of this body work, and don't think i should have it on the bike until its at least in a climate controlled environment or im ready to restore it myself once ive found some pipes for it.

There is a listing for a couple candy gold head lights buckets online i can grab, then im only waiting around for one left side cover...Meanwhile I can hunt down some original candy garnet brown for the original kit. I wonder if separating the speedo from the motor and loosing track of actual milage would be dumb tho?

[Shtonecb500]

throttle cables are on, chrome handlebar back on, the carbs are locked up so i yanked those off and will soak them.  RH side caliper bracket is installed/mocked up, rear mud guard and fender is installed, new light bulb put in the tail light, running/brake light works. I have a front fender that has been bobbed and rolled/flared...but i have a question....why do my fork lowers not have the holes for the fender support brackets? I don't have holes for the reflector in my fork ears either....?

gotta find a nice spacer to replace the 9 washers im using to space out the caliper.

[Shtonecb500]

im gonna pump the breaks for now, ordered two RH control switches from randakks, I have a nice left side switch i can put on this bike. Found some nice spacers to replace the washers for the right hand brake caliper bracket, the carbs we locked up really good so i soaked them for a few hours with the slides, pilots, mains, and floats pulled out. Ill put the carbs back on tomorrow and hook up the throttle cables, there is no air filter in the airbox so i need one of those too. I will probably take the wheels off next week polish rims spokes and hubs and install new tires. maybe clean or replace the chain.

Mid ohio is this weekend so im gonna get back on #$%* after i see what i find there.

This thing should be fired up and running by end of next week though....if there arent any mishaps.

[scottly]

Do you need another K1 caliper for the right side?

[Shtonecb500]

Do you need another K1 caliper for the right side?

Ya i figured I would find one in Ohio.

[scottly]

I've got one, and it already has the brake line seat and bleeder reversed for use on the right side. IIRC, the piston has some pitting, but not bad in the seal area? If you find one for less than $45, buy it. What about a rotor? I may have one or two, but they may need surfacing. I'll have to look...

[Shtonecb500]

I've got one, and it already has the brake line seat and bleeder reversed for use on the right side. IIRC, the piston has some pitting, but not bad in the seal area? If you find one for less than $45, buy it. What about a rotor? I may have one or two, but they may need surfacing. I'll have to look...

the wheel has both rotors already. Ill let you know if i dont find one and need yours.

[Shtonecb500]

all the dash indicators work, headlight high and low work, rear tail and brake work. I don't have drilled bars and dont know what i want to do here...do i find some drilled bars and swap, do i mod both switch housings so i can run the wire outside the bar? 

[Shtonecb500]

picked up a candy gold head light bucket for my tank, also found cb500 k0 fork ears with the reflectors so now i have some reflectors for the 750 k1.

Found a very nice early 750 caliper with ALL OF THE STOCK PAINT still on it, gonna rebuild it and use it for the dual caliper side.

I now have oil side cover, (1) fork ear, tank, light bucket in candy gold so far.

[grcamna2]

I wish I was a bit closer to Mid-Ohio