Topic: pictures of K1 dual disc caliper mounts

[Shtonecb500]

Seeking pictures or links to threads with overview of the K1 C bracket caliper mounting system for dual discs.

I found a couple different brackets and im confused.

thanks.

[newday777]

On a 750 K1?

[Shtonecb500]

On a 750 K1?

yes.

[Medyo Bastos]

Which part is causing you confusion?


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[bryanj]

The correct mirror image bracket for the early ones is very rare and expensive as it was magnesium alloy in the race kit.
You can convert a lh one to rh by machining off a boss and using spacers.
I believe yamiya do the bracket but it aint cheap

[gschuld]

+1.

Checkers Flag Customs(Yoshimura) sold the custom magnesium right side C brackets for the early fork lowers(69-71) a long time ago.

Modifying the factory left side bracket into a right side bracket is the normal method.  I can take pics of a geniune CFC right magnesium side bracket if that helps you, but no, mine is not for sale.

George

[grcamna2]

subscribed

[Don R]

 Let me try this pic. Not the one I was looking for but close. I also have a set of left and right that were cut down for a fiberglass fender drag bike. 

[MauiK3]

Sure looks harder than the T bracket to mount

[commander60]

Speaking about brackets , anybody ever put the caliper on the back site ? I did years ago on my CB500. can't Rember how I did it !

[gschuld]

Just reposition the forks backwards.

George

[bryanj]

Yup i did it in 76 when i twin disced a 500, had to have one caliper in front and one behind as there were only caliper mounts on the lh slider, we had the 500 till 77 then the 550F had mountings on both sides

[scottly]

+1.

Checkers Flag Customs(Yoshimura) sold the custom magnesium right side C brackets for the early fork lowers(69-71) a long time ago.

Modifying the factory left side bracket into a right side bracket is the normal method.  I can take pics of a geniune CFC right magnesium side bracket if that helps you, but no, mine is not for sale.

George

Here's a couple three pics of a CFC bracket. It was designed to be used with the stock fender brace, which fit between the bracket and fork leg. If the fender brace wasn't used, washers were needed or the caliper would sit crooked. Also, the brake line seat needs to be removed and reinstalled in the old bleeder hole to convert the caliper to right side use.
edit: found another pic of the CFC bracket and one of the flare seat.

[newday777]

Speaking about brackets , anybody ever put the caliper on the back site ? I did years ago on my CB500. can't Rember how I did it !

On my K6

[Shtonecb500]

Guys, THANK YOU SO MUCH for these pictures and the info. I was sitting there earlier just holding it up to the fork lower trying to figure what i would cut...I see the yamiya RH clamp runs about 200 usd plus shipping. It looks like I have what I need to accomplish this task though.

here is pic of the one you can buy from yamiya and what i have

[Shtonecb500]

Sure looks harder than the T bracket to mount

lol thats what i was thinking.

[Shtonecb500]

Lol

so if i shave the lower rear boss down then i should need 1 or 2 less washers (mm's)? It lines up over the rotor fairly well the way i have it, the bolts dont come close to any spokes but it would better if have something less chunky.

[Medyo Bastos]

Yes, less clunky is the way to go!


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[Don R]

Yup, the shorter the bolts are and with fewer washers the stronger it will be.

[scottly]

Rookster gave some details on modifying and spacing the early caliper bracket in this thread:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,91781.msg1025007.html#msg1025007

[Rookster]

Thanks for posting that link.  I had forgotten I wrote that up.  I have had to modify my setup since going back to the stock fender.  The K1 fender has to bolt up tight to the RH fork leg.  Here is how I did it with the stock fender: 1/4" spacer and thick shim washer plus the fender bracket got the caliper in the right spot. 





Scott

[Shtonecb500]

thanks for the links and pictures everyone, made this much easier.

[Bankerdanny]

thanks for the links and pictures everyone, made this much easier.

Jeff Stephens at Godffery's Garage makes a comprehensive kit. He also offers rotor thinning and drilling services. I have three of his thinned and drilled rotors on my 750F and my 550F had one on the front. He does really quality work and I have been fortunate to visit his workshop in person. You can check it out at his website: godfferysgarage.com

[Shtonecb500]

thanks for the links and pictures everyone, made this much easier.

Jeff Stephens at Godffery's Garage makes a comprehensive kit. He also offers rotor thinning and drilling services. I have three of his thinned and drilled rotors on my 750F and my 550F had one on the front. He does really quality work and I have been fortunate to visit his workshop in person. You can check it out at his website: godfferysgarage.com

I have his set up on a 550 

[Shtonecb500]

+1.

Checkers Flag Customs(Yoshimura) sold the custom magnesium right side C brackets for the early fork lowers(69-71) a long time ago.

Modifying the factory left side bracket into a right side bracket is the normal method.  I can take pics of a geniune CFC right magnesium side bracket if that helps you, but no, mine is not for sale.

George

Here's a couple three pics of a CFC bracket. It was designed to be used with the stock fender brace, which fit between the bracket and fork leg. If the fender brace wasn't used, washers were needed or the caliper would sit crooked. Also, the brake line seat needs to be removed and reinstalled in the old bleeder hole to convert the caliper to right side use.
edit: found another pic of the CFC bracket and one of the flare seat.

tips on removing the line seat?

[Rookster]

Put a finishing nail in from the inside so the head catches the seat.  Chuck the nail up tight into a vice and drift the caliper off the seat.  Be ready to catch the caliper or have it fall into a rag.  I never had any luck trying to pull the seat out of the caliper with vice grips or pliers on the nail. 

Scott

[robvangulik]

This way

[Medyo Bastos]

I’ve always used a drywall screw


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[seanbarney41]

Shtone, I have only done this once but it worked perfectly and was surprisingly easy...  Get yourself a drywall screw and gently thread it into the hole in the seat.  It does not need to screw in very far and don't ram it in.  Put your caliper in a vice and rig up a wood block or something so you can grab the screw with some plyers and lever the screw out on the block.  Mine popped right out easier than expected.

[scottly]

Put a finishing nail in from the inside so the head catches the seat.  Chuck the nail up tight into a vice and drift the caliper off the seat.  Be ready to catch the caliper or have it fall into a rag.  I never had any luck trying to pull the seat out of the caliper with vice grips or pliers on the nail. 

Scott

Frank also used a finishing nail, but I think he bent it 90* to keep the vice grips from slipping?
I've used the screw method, with a pair of needle nose pliers under the screw head to lever out the seat, but it can bugger up the seat a little bit if you're not careful, while the finishing nail won't.

[Shtonecb500]

thank you, everyone.

Phil had a operating shop for 50 plus years and he has never done this before or knew that you could, he also never had an interest in dual disc applications so it kinda makes sense. I just thought it was funny to have so much experience and still find things he hasn't done yet, big or small.

[Shtonecb500]

Bringing this back from the dead because Im curious about this set up with a stock fender?

If the bosses are removed how do people mount the fender?

Anyone have pictures of dual disk with C clamp style caliper arms and a stock fender installed,?

[Shtonecb500]

never mind, I found some pictures on google and I see how you guys do it now.

thank you for reading.

[38rudge]

You might like to read through this link on when I did the twin disc conversion on my K2, which has the same brackets and more or less the procedure to go through:  https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,21171.0.html

[Shtonecb500]

+1.

Checkers Flag Customs(Yoshimura) sold the custom magnesium right side C brackets for the early fork lowers(69-71) a long time ago.

Modifying the factory left side bracket into a right side bracket is the normal method.  I can take pics of a geniune CFC right magnesium side bracket if that helps you, but no, mine is not for sale.

George

I kind of buggered the brake line seat, its not a perfectly shaped tapered cone anymore, will it still work or is it just gonna leak? I think I used too large of a screw.
Here's a couple three pics of a CFC bracket. It was designed to be used with the stock fender brace, which fit between the bracket and fork leg. If the fender brace wasn't used, washers were needed or the caliper would sit crooked. Also, the brake line seat needs to be removed and reinstalled in the old bleeder hole to convert the caliper to right side use.
edit: found another pic of the CFC bracket and one of the flare seat.

[MauiK3]

I tried once, it was corroded in, had to buy a new one.

[Shtonecb500]

I found this video and thought I would share, they cover removing the brake line seat incredibly well. This is a step by step dual disc installation for any K2 and on.