Topic: Wiring Issue / Question

[Captain07]

Hi There,

I'm working on installing a new wiring harness to replace the old brittle and somewhat corroded one on my cb750k5 (hoping this will solve an issue where my fuse box is heating up with the ignition on, and peace of mind moving forward.)

Sorry for being an idiot, and apologies in advance, as electrical stuff is hard to wrap my head around.  Ive been using the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual, and theres 2 red wires coming out from the shielded cord coming from my breaker assembly.  These 2 red wires connect into one, and then proceed to run parallel to the wiring harness and then splice into the Black and white wire coming from the harness near the ignition.

My question is: Is this normal stock?  Or is this something the previous owner messed with and added in?  Unless I'm missing something in the wiring diagram (very possible), I cant seem to figure out what is going on here.  My end goal with this bike is to keep it stock.

Thanks for any assistance!  I attached 2 images of this "mystery" red wire.

[69cb750]

The points wires are yellow and blue, they connect to yellow and blue harness wires next to brake switch wires in harness.
Hot fuse block may be oxidized connector or oxidized fuse holders.

[BenelliSEI]

Black wires with a white stripe are power to the coils (from memory). Looks like the previous owner may have attached an accessory feed wire that came on when the key is turned on and ignition goes live?

[Captain07]

I'm an idiot and just figured out what it was.  Opened up the cover and the previous owner installed a Dyna S Ignition system on it.  Should have done that from the get go.

Appreciate the help though!

[HondaMan]

The heated-up fuses won't be solved by the new wiring harness. That is caused by the fuse clips. They were chromate-plated 50 years ago, intended for a 10-year life, and now the chromate is flaking off, making a fine resistor that heats the clips until it melts the fuse(s). The OEM fuses were SFE type, rated to carry full current while the bike bounced down the road: those were discontinued worldwide in the 1990s and the world ran dry of those fuses by 2002 or so. Modern 25mm/1" length fuses are made only for electronic equipment that sits dead still on a tabletop, not a vibrating, bouncing bike frame. When these instrument-grade fuses are caarrying current they get quite warm, and then a big bump makes them fall apart, making it look like they "blew" for some mysterious reason.

That's why I make a replacement fuseblock for these bikes that uses modern ATC-type automotive fuses.