Topic: Chain Noise 'n' S***

[Heironymous Josh]

I've got an awful noise coming from my drive chain.  It's light a rhythmic chaffing sound.  Sometimes I even hear little clicks that sound almost like the chain is catching up on one of the sprocket teeth and then snapping down.  I oiled the chain which solved the problem for a short while but I'm wondering what gives.  In my experience of riding bicycles a bent sprocket (cog for bicycles) would cause this kind of noise but I've never experienced this sort of problem on a motorcycle.  Is it possible that the chain tension could cause this problem?  I've inspected the sprocket and nothing seems to be bent or in bad shape.  Any help would be great.  Thanks!

Josch

[Bob Wessner]

Have you checked to see that the two sprockets are aligned with one another?

[Heironymous Josh]

Have you checked to see that the two sprockets are aligned with one another?

Is there a scientific way of doing this or just line of sight?

[Bob Wessner]

Chain adjustment can cause this if not done evenly on both sides of the rear axle. There should be some index marks back there. Make sure they are at the same point on both sides. If not, loosen-up the axle adjust the chain side to the proper tension and insure the opposite side is on the same mark. I've seen tools that clamp to the rear axle and have a rod attached that helps sight down the chain to the front sprocket, but haven't had the need to use one so far.

[Heironymous Josh]

thanks, I'll take a look

[Heironymous Josh]

Both sides of the rear axle are at the same marker point.  I don't see how this adjustment can ensure the two sprockets are aligned though.  It seems to me this only ensures that the rear wheel is straight and hence the sprocket.  Is there an adjustment at the front or the back sprocket that allows you to move either outward or inward to ensure the chain is running straight front to back?

[BobbyR]

I think you chain may be shot. The comment about oiling it making it better for a while. I am buying a new chain in a week or so for the same reason.   

[Heironymous Josh]

this is a total noob question but is it highly dangerous to drive if the chain is shot?

[Ibsen]

Another thing you can check is if there are any frozen links on the chain. A frozen link kan cause the noise you described. If there is, the chain should be replaced. A worn out chain is not safe to ride with, and if it breakes it can also cause some heavy damage on the crankcase. And the chain and the sprockets should be replaced as a kit.

Here you can read more about chains and about how to maintan and adjustment them:

http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm

[number13]

Also a symptom of worn sprocket(s).
Look for "hooked" teeth, especially at the front sprocket.

[martin99]

I had an annoying clank from a new o ring chain I fitted to my F2. The noise increased with the revs, and even using a laser to line up the sprockets didn't solve the problem. After a lot of cussing I found the problem. The pins on the split link were slightly longer than thepins on the other links. and with each revolution were just fouling the chainguard mounting to the swingarm. A couple of washers to move the guard out a touch cured the problem. I've also read that o ring chains can be wrongly supplied creating a clearance issue behind the front sprocket and if slightly over width can cause a similar but more serious problem as it eats into the crankcase. Hope yours is the easy fix!

[chung]

Hey Josch. In the bicycle land I live in, we call um "chain rings"

If the chain is sloppy then get a new one. Almost 1/4 of the 750s I've owned had the cases welded from loosing a chain and punching a hole in the motor. A $150 for chain and sprockets is always money well spent. So, yes it's bad to run a bad chain.

Also, the index marks on the arm are not always exact (rarely)
Aother thing is mismatched motor/frame. The K7/8 doesn't fit the K-K6 bike by about 5/16 inch. But it usually doesn't make noise.

A clicking chain typically means a worn out/stretched/junk chain. If you can pull the chain far enough out of the sprocket to see the neighbor's wife smiling at you then replace it. (the chain, not the smiling neighbor) 

[Bob Wessner]

...Also, the index marks on the arm are not always exact (rarely)
 

If not the index marks, what technique do you use to insure alignment of the sprockets?

[mrbreeze]

If you really want to make sure of that chain being good or junk.....look in the manual and it will tell you to measure the distance between a certain number of links(I think its 20) .If it goes over the spec, the chain is a boat anchor. Clymers tell you to lay the chain down on a table next to a ruler. Compress the links together and then stretch them apart.More than 1/4 inch play means the chain is shot.

[seaweb11]

is it rubbing on the center stand?  After market exhausts don't have a rubber stopper and stand can come up to high sometimes.

[stueveone]

I had that same problem with an old ratty chain. It would click. Then I replaced the chain with a Tsubaki x-ring chain, what a difference! And yeah, you're going to want to replace the sprockets and chain together.

[chung]

Aligning the real wheel? I hope I don't loose what little creditability I may have had here but.........

When I first get the bike, I set it on the marks and then I just eyeball the chain. I do have a pretty good eyeball and it's never caused me to wreck or loose a dragrace. I neglect the O-ring chains and they last most of 20k miles. So it works for me.

 Other guys get real scientific about it but I get by with a couple pretty good eyeballs and 1/2 a brain.

This does absolutely nothing to align the wheels with each other but I was only trying to align the engine with the rear wheel

[USN20]

Both sides of the rear axle are at the same marker point.  I don't see how this adjustment can ensure the two sprockets are aligned though.  It seems to me this only ensures that the rear wheel is straight and hence the sprocket.  Is there an adjustment at the front or the back sprocket that allows you to move either outward or inward to ensure the chain is running straight front to back?

My old H-D's didn't have any index marks on the swingarm, so what I would do first is loosen the axle, spin the wheel (by hand) and snug-up the adjusters simultaneously so that the sprocket tracked dead center on the chain, then turn both adjusters equally until the desired chain slack was reached. Finally, tighten the axle nut and spin check one last time. This sprocket-to-chain tracking can be easily observed from the rear of the bike while spinning the wheel. This *eyeball* method only ensures that the rear sprocket is centered to the chain and tracking true. I've adjusted my '74 CB750 chain this way and find that the factory swingarm index marks are always just a little off. Of course, this does not mean that wheels are now in proper alignment with each another.

Right or wrong ... I've come to the conclusion that the Honda index marks are a compromise between wheel alignment and chain alignment.   

[chung]

Hey USN20, freedom green metallic? is that really the name of that color?

[USN20]

Hey USN20, freedom green metallic? is that really the name of that color?

Chung, It sure is and the Honda paint code is HM-16-904  

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/lubrtech.html

[mgmuellner]

this is a total noob question but is it highly dangerous to drive if the chain is shot?

If the chain breaks, it can get stuck around the wheel or get wrapped around the countershaft sprocket.  Either your rear wheel can lock up or lower end could get damaged.  It's dangerous & not so smart to ride around with a worn chain.  You'll probably need new sprockets now too.

[Heironymous Josh]

I can't pull the chain away from the sprocket at all, but the chain is about three times tighter at one lenght than the rest.  At it's tightest point, the chain has less play than recommended by the manual and at its loosest point is has too much.  The chain seems to be running straight but by all indications the chain is shot.

[mrbreeze]

I would stop riding and start shopping.....new chain and sprockets. All good info in this thread and especially what Seaweb said....make sure that the centerstand has a stop to keep it out of the chain if you are running other than stock pipes.

[Al_Aaraaf]

It's late in the thread, I know, but I can concur with it being a crap chain. A month ago, I was having the same symptoms and waisted a lot of time before I found several causes. Unfortunately, I overlooked the obvious and went straight to disassembling and inspecting the clutch. With it spotless and me scratching my head, I just happened to notice all the damned slack in the chain. It was rubbing center stand and the swing arm. Also, over bumps and off throttle the upper half of the chain was slapping the guard.

After I tightened it up (maxing out the wheelbase adjustment bolts) I still had some binding noises. Added oil and it went away for a few days, but returned. Just replaced chain and sprockets and the bike feels and sounds much better. It's more responsive going on and off throttle as well. If I had known what to search for in the forums, I'd have saved myself so much trouble as well as the cringing embarrassment of rolling into my regular haunts with that awful sound. I learned more than I ever intended about wet clutches though.

[Heironymous Josh]

It's late in the thread, I know, but I can concur with it being a crap chain. A month ago, I was having the same symptoms and waisted a lot of time before I found several causes. Unfortunately, I overlooked the obvious and went straight to disassembling and inspecting the clutch. With it spotless and me scratching my head, I just happened to notice all the damned slack in the chain. It was rubbing center stand and the swing arm. Also, over bumps and off throttle the upper half of the chain was slapping the guard.

After I tightened it up (maxing out the wheelbase adjustment bolts) I still had some binding noises. Added oil and it went away for a few days, but returned. Just replaced chain and sprockets and the bike feels and sounds much better. It's more responsive going on and off throttle as well. If I had known what to search for in the forums, I'd have saved myself so much trouble as well as the cringing embarrassment of rolling into my regular haunts with that awful sound. I learned more than I ever intended about wet clutches though.

The sound really is embarrassing isn't it?  I want to turn heads with my kerker 4-1 exhaust not a grinding clinking chain.  There's one good thing about your doomsday approach to trouble shooting, you should be pleasantly surprised often!  Take care, bud.

Josch