The guides wear in a flare toward the combustion chamber and at the rocker's side: i.e., they are more worn at the chamber side and the top than in the middle. So, Honda specs this by declaring the "wiggle" amount, which takes in both situations in one measurement. Lift the valve about 1/4" off the seat and wiggle it toward the center of the combustion chamber and away from the chamber's center to see the maximum wear: subtract the standard clearance of 0.0012" (intake) and 0.0018" (exhaust) from your reading to see what the wear value actually has become. If it wiggles more than 0.006" (intakes) or 0.008" (exhaust) the valve guide is done. Chances are, the valves are fine and can be reconditioned (aka "reground").
And, being one of the F2/3 engines with more than 10k miles on it, I'd bet the guides are finished. Those engines used simple cast-iron guides and the Owner's Manuals specified oil weights that confused people into using 10w40 oils (often detergent types) in those engines, which greatly accelerated this wear. Personally, I have not seen an F2/3 engine with 10k miles on it that DIDN'T need new valve guides...they wore fast!
I can recommend the APE bronze guides as a solution to all of those issues with this head. The bronze wears far less without oil than the cast iron type guides, and there is little oil in these guides - just that which seeps past the oil seal, which ain't much! The normal valve stem-to-guide clearance in this head is 0.0012" intake and 0.0018" exhaust.
Also: the valve spring retainers in this engine are simple stamped-steel parts, not a great idea with the extra-strong springs Honda used in them. Contact CycleX and get a set of their great cast valve spring retainers and you won't ever risk pulling the valve keepers thru the retainer. 'Dropping a valve' is what has destroyed the lion's share of the F2/3 top ends.
