Topic: My K8 re-conditioning

[denward17]

Checked battery and it is at 12.2 volts, probably need a new one.

Quick check of timing on 1-4 with a test light showed timing way off.

I should have checked this before I tried to start.  Will reset timing and point gap before trying again.

[RAFster122s]

Cycle the battery and jumper cable your car or truck battery to do your test fires to get it running.
After a couple charge cycles your bike battery may bounce back…
Unless you charged it before testing, then it is just the load of your trying to start the bike has discharged the battery…

[Mark1976]

You'll get there, one thing at a time. Sounds like your just about there.

[denward17]

I found a couple of my mistakes.  When connecting the condenser/hot wires to the points, I grounded one on each side to the points bracket.

Duh, I guess that could be one problem.

I set the timing with a static light, don't know if this will work or not, but both sides are now firing on the "F" mark.  One thing I have a question about is the adjustability of the big plate for 1-4, looking at the attached picture, it appears I don't have much adjustment left?

Any ideas?

Thanks

[madmtnmotors]

One thing I have a question about is the adjustability of the big plate for 1-4, looking at the attached picture, it appears I don't have much adjustment left?

Adjusting the point gap will shift the base plate.

[denward17]

One thing I have a question about is the adjustability of the big plate for 1-4, looking at the attached picture, it appears I don't have much adjustment left?

Adjusting the point gap will shift the base plate.

I was referring to setting the timing with a static light, the big outer plate.

[madmtnmotors]

One thing I have a question about is the adjustability of the big plate for 1-4, looking at the attached picture, it appears I don't have much adjustment left?

I was referring to setting the timing with a static light, the big outer plate.

So was I. By adjusting the point gap (either wider or narrower) your timing will move. Figure out where you want the point gap to best locate the point plate when timed. You have to re-time whenever you adjust the point gap. The point gap has a range of .012in to .016in

Adjusting the point gap will shift the base plate when re-timed. Best results for point gap are obtained with a dwell meter but feeler gauges are fine.

[denward17]

One thing I have a question about is the adjustability of the big plate for 1-4, looking at the attached picture, it appears I don't have much adjustment left?

I was referring to setting the timing with a static light, the big outer plate.

So was I. By adjusting the point gap (either wider or narrower) you timing will move. Figure out where you want the point gap to best locate the point plate when timed. You have to re-time whenever you adjust the point gap. The point gap has a range of .012in to .016in

Adjusting the point gap will shift the base plate when re-timed. Best results for point gap are obtained with a dwell meter but feeler gauges are fine.

I'm trying to understand, do I adjust point gap first, then timing?

[grcamna2]

One thing I have a question about is the adjustability of the big plate for 1-4, looking at the attached picture, it appears I don't have much adjustment left?

I was referring to setting the timing with a static light, the big outer plate.

So was I. By adjusting the point gap (either wider or narrower) you timing will move. Figure out where you want the point gap to best locate the point plate when timed. You have to re-time whenever you adjust the point gap. The point gap has a range of .012in to .016in

Adjusting the point gap will shift the base plate when re-timed. Best results for point gap are obtained with a dwell meter but feeler gauges are fine.

I'm trying to understand, do I adjust point gap first, then timing?

I believe that's the idea;adjust the points gaps between .012-.016",start with 1-4.
The timing will adjust on the moveable base when you have the points gaps optimized so you have enough adjustment in the slots of the timing/moveable base.

[madmtnmotors]

I'm trying to understand, do I adjust point gap first, then timing?

Yes. Changing the point gap will require the timing to be reset.

[PeWe]

Blue and yellow wire from ignition are not mixed up?Connection to main harness or where coils are connected.

A quick test swapping them where connected to main harness will tell.

[denward17]

Blue and yellow wire from ignition are not mixed up?Connection to main harness or where coils are connected.

A quick test swapping them where connected to main harness will tell.

I don't think so, I never disconnected them from the harness, just left them hanging out of the way when I removed the engine.  I found 2 problems:

1-When I re-attached the wires to the points, I missed the insulator and had a wire on each side up against the points bracket.
2-#4 carb was leaking bad, discovered a bad float needle, so went ahead and replaced all 4 and bench tested again, looks good on the bench.  When I rebuilt the carbs I tried to use everything that came out, so I had the new float needles left over from the kit.

Attached pic of said float needle.

[denward17]

Thanks for all the help Guys, she runs, fired right up....   

[BenelliSEI]

Thanks for all the help Guys, she runs, fired right up....   

Excellent..... changing the points gap adjusts how early (or late) the points open, and also how long they stay open (dwell). Using a timing light, set the big plate (1-4), then set 2-3 next. Well done.

[denward17]

May be able to see a 20 sec. video.


See below.

[Stev-o]

Good to hear she is running!  BTW - link to video not working

[grcamna2]

Good to hear she is running!  BTW - link to video not working

I'm glad you got her running denward17 
link not working.

[denward17]

This link should work....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLoGh6psPAgTZFbB7

[Alan F.]

That link works, thanks for sharing your success!

[PeWe]

New pistons in fresh bores need a break in. The bore surface will grind the rings to seal the first 100-200km or so.

Do not ride it too careful. First 20 minutes a warm up before rev higher followed by  throttle  offs that will help to seal rings.

A few rounds of 4000rpm- throttle off, stepping up to 5000rpm- throttle off, 6000 rpm- throttle off.
I should let it hit 8000rpm after 100km when really warm.

I read about this and did that with a few sets. All were good when investigate later.

My 836 pistons I gave a sissy break-In in the 80's have brown color under rings. I rode max 4000rpm the first 1000km wich was a mistake.

An early oil change wirh filter after max 500km can be good too due to the total engine restore.

[grcamna2]

New pistons in fresh bores need a break in. The bore surface will grind the rings to seal the first 100-200km or so.

Do not ride it too careful. First 20 minutes a warm up before rev higher followed by  throttle  offs that will help to seal rings.

A few rounds of 4000rpm- throttle off, stepping up to 5000rpm- throttle off, 6000 rpm- throttle off.
I should let it hit 8000rpm after 100km when really warm.

I read about this and did that with a few sets. All were good when investigate later.

My 836 pistons I gave a sissy break-In in the 80's have brown color under rings. I rode max 4000rpm the first 1000km wich was a mistake.

An early oil change wirh filter after max 500km can be good too due to the total engine restore.

'Ride it like you stole it' 

[Stev-o]

New pistons in fresh bores need a break in. The bore surface will grind the rings to seal the first 100-200km or so.

Do not ride it too careful. First 20 minutes a warm up before rev higher followed by  throttle  offs that will help to seal rings.

A few rounds of 4000rpm- throttle off, stepping up to 5000rpm- throttle off, 6000 rpm- throttle off.
I should let it hit 8000rpm after 100km when really warm.

I read about this and did that with a few sets. All were good when investigate later.

My 836 pistons I gave a sissy break-In in the 80's have brown color under rings. I rode max 4000rpm the first 1000km wich was a mistake.

An early oil change wirh filter after max 500km can be good too due to the total engine restore.

'Ride it like you stole it' 

There seem to be two opposite opinions on break-in procedures:

1.  Keep RPM's below 5000 and vary the RPM's while riding.
2.  Ride it like you stole it!

I've always been on the more conservative side after spending all that money on a rebuild! But seems both will work.

[denward17]

Started to inspect the gas tank, knew it had a liner and had already ordered a new petcock because the old one leaked.

When to install the new petcock and discovered the filter sock was still inside with the old petcock out.

So now to figure out how to get that old petcock screen out.....

[newday777]

Find a couse screw to screw in the hole to just grab the screen filter plastic at its base.

[Alan F.]

I've had some success threading a fine pitch tap and pulling the filter with vise-grips.