Topic: silly clutch question-update

[Don R]

 I've seen the six bolt clutch swap CycleX sells, I can't help wonder if a twin cam 6 bolt MRE slipper/lockup clutch for a DOHC Honda could be used with one in a sohc engine. Has anyone investigated it? I can see a cover problem, but it might be worth the effort. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254771720119?hash=item3b5193efb7:g:2zgAAOSwzmZfpw7J&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoP1i0IxRM92mdYB8DaqSHvko0MzrNxCHC%2BPnC6R%2FMSFEV%2FZ6JKQS4i1R9olEEQ9DLN0BHJKkX7qEPGOj30AJvuHq0jGSEVlISUydk6p6WKkGxsWYjMGqaF%2Bo%2Fizo%2Fzq5kgFUqfTaScgeYpdZ9PZ%2BcyRJMz%2FTrck1uFMG3k2Kz4Y7kJC86OG5F%2Bj8lppzHhrlGZUYZgYq6wORjw7K8k6IHYs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9qPrMCjYQ

 I'm tempted to buy a dohc clutch and this and find out.

 Edit; I see CycleX has a 4 bolt lockup clutch and a SOHC billet cover extension. Making the lifter work is my biggest question.

[NitroHunter]

Don years ago MRE made a SOHC 4 bolt lockup clutch. Pretty sure there weren't a lot of them out there... 

[HondaMan]

Don years ago MRE made a SOHC 4 bolt lockup clutch. Pretty sure there weren't a lot of them out there... 

Yep, and when they weren't set up 'just so' they killed the engine at the green light!

[NitroHunter]

Yep, and when they weren't set up 'just so' they killed the engine at the green light!
[/quote]

Oh yeah, adding a little counterweight went a long ways. Unless the motor made enough power to overcome that little tire then it was spin city and at that point uncoupling the engine from the tire was not an option...
Of course these 'lock up' plates were never intended to used as a launch 'slider', rather designed to add a (secondary) clamping force down track for additional plate load after the 4 (primary force) springs had the clutch initially engaged. And of course we always had killer springs which compounded the finessing the launch problem. As a young man, I had some enlightening long distance phone conversations with MRE's Mike Murdoch about this as I envisioned reinventing the wheel... 
I should share sometime my Hydro-Slide project I whittled up during a Machine shop class. Crude version of a Fuel car hydraulic cannon-type clutch management system using a single stage flow control. 

Regardless of the hp on tap, the motors got to stay ahead of the clutch.

[dragracer]

Don years ago MRE made a SOHC 4 bolt lockup clutch. Pretty sure there weren't a lot of them out there... 

I bought one of the last ones they had left on the shelf for the 750F mono shock bike. I mocked it up but decided not to use it because they're not legal in street ET. I know if I ever decide to spray nitrous on the bike,  that clutch will have to be installed to avoid slippage down track. Since Kenny has recently started marketing his GL conversion,  I may try that first. I can always fall back to the lockup.

[Don R]

 The guy I got the Dragbikes from said he couldn't keep clutches in them because they are small, one bike had a turbo and one is (was) a ported and 315 cammed RC 836. I got a bunch of used thin red discs and copper coated plates with the parts.
 I've put together a stock F2 clutch with purple?? springs and the double center disc.
 He has a Hayabusa, two years ago he put in a new clutch with a +6" swingarm and went over backwards at Cordova Dragway. Minor injuries and minor damage to the bike. I don't think he has raced it since. I can see where clutch choice and adjustment has consequences. 

[dragracer]

The guy I got the Dragbikes from said he couldn't keep clutches in them because they are small, one bike had a turbo and one is (was) a ported and 315 cammed RC 836. I got a bunch of used thin red discs and copper coated plates with the parts.
 I've put together a stock F2 clutch with purple?? springs and the double center disc.
 He has a Hayabusa, two years ago he put in a new clutch with a +6" swingarm and went over backwards at Cordova Dragway. Minor injuries and minor damage to the bike. I don't think he has raced it since. I can see where clutch choice and adjustment has consequences. 

Personally speaking from owning a slow 10 second Honda to a quicker mid 7 second Kawasaki dragbike on nitrous,  it's best to use OEM fibers and steels whenever possible.  I have an F model clutch basket/hub and OEM clutch plates in both of my bikes. I've gotten countless passes without failure. I don't use super stiff springs either. On my no bar KZ, I'm using stock clutches with a multi-stage lockup on nitrous.  I occasionally change the clutches out to avoid the possibility of the unexpected wheelie like your friend experienced.  The middle plates get a tad warm and causes the clutch to grab just pass the 60'. I rode Bill's bike a few years ago. He had Barnett plates and some funky copper looking steels from RC. That was the very worse setup I've ever experienced. It was grabby off the line making it hard to slide out and it began to slip down track after the 2nd pass. He went back some stock type clutches and recently made a mid 10 second pass.

Yes, clutch choices are paramount on a no bar bike in particular.

[Don R]

 The RC 836 Hot Rod bike, while it was running, did seem grabby on the launch. I tried practicing burnouts and it was wierd, seemed to grab and let go again but maybe that was my inexperience and hesitation. I'll replace the clutch with stock parts when I do the top end repair.
 Thanks again for the great discussion. Most of my big ideas have already been tried, saving me a lot of grief and money.

[Don R]

 Today I removed the 9 red discs and copper coated plates from the Hot Rod bike.
  My order of "Honda" discs came in (I'm not convinced of their origin) and I grabbed the plates and double steel out of a nice gl1000 clutch I bought.
 I checked the assembly order of the F2 clutch in the partzilla diagram and noticed there are 4 frictions on one side of the double steel and 2 on the other side. I wondered why it wouldn't be centered but went ahead and began to assemble it as shown in the drawing. I also put a new wide tab slant cork disc in front.
  I think it assembles in the K1 like stock except for the lack of the snap ring. Does all of this make sense?  I also have a wide clutch K6 cover.

[HondaMan]

Today I removed the 9 red discs and copper coated plates from the Hot Rod bike.
  My order of "Honda" discs came in (I'm not convinced of their origin) and I grabbed the plates and double steel out of a nice gl1000 clutch I bought.
 I checked the assembly order of the F2 clutch in the partzilla diagram and noticed there are 4 frictions on one side of the double steel and 2 on the other side. I wondered why it wouldn't be centered but went ahead and began to assemble it as shown in the drawing. I also put a new wide tab slant cork disc in front.
 

I asked that same question back when, but no one would answer it. The K5/6/7 and F0/1 had the double-steel in the 1 slot behind the slant-cut cork, and in the 2nd, and in the 4th in various bikes. The parts drawings sometimes show it behind #4 and sometimes behind #1 cork, bit I haven't seen a parts drawing with it in #2 until recently(!).

I put them behind #1 for street use (or throw them away and use the GL back plate).

[Don R]

 I followed the racers advise, the F clutch is in there, lever pull is stronger, I'll wait to see if the lever pull smooths out with use, I drilled the extra clutch hub oil holes on this one.  Not as many as Goldwing, but more than cb750.
  I had greased the lifter bearing and was surprised to see that in 20 miles and two tries at top speed the grease hadn't been washed away. There must not be a large amount of oil circulating through there.
  My plan is break in the clutch and go right to an oil change.
 
  Edit: it didn't look as good with the gnarly K6 cover so I clearanced the inside of the K1 chrome clutch cover and put it back on.

[MRieck]

Today I removed the 9 red discs and copper coated plates from the Hot Rod bike.
  My order of "Honda" discs came in (I'm not convinced of their origin) and I grabbed the plates and double steel out of a nice gl1000 clutch I bought.
 I checked the assembly order of the F2 clutch in the partzilla diagram and noticed there are 4 frictions on one side of the double steel and 2 on the other side. I wondered why it wouldn't be centered but went ahead and began to assemble it as shown in the drawing. I also put a new wide tab slant cork disc in front.
 

I asked that same question back when, but no one would answer it. The K5/6/7 and F0/1 had the double-steel in the 1 slot behind the slant-cut cork, and in the 2nd, and in the 4th in various bikes. The parts drawings sometimes show it behind #4 and sometimes behind #1 cork, bit I haven't seen a parts drawing with it in #2 until recently(!).

I put them behind #1 for street use (or throw them away and use the GL back plate).

I just checked the 78 fiche and the double riveted steel is the middle of the clutch pack. That's the way I found it in those F engines all the time.

[Don R]

I think I missed a number typing, it's 3 frictions on one side and 4 on the other side.
  I used the small OD, splined washer that sits in the clutch basket hub and on a late shaft, behind the snap ring. I've been looking in my small parts stash but seem to be short one of those and a snap ring for the project turbo engine.