A C-clamp is good for pushing the pistons in. Make sure the MC reservoir doesn't overflow from the fluid being sent there when you push the piston in. Nasty stuff that dissolves paint.
Remove the dead pad limit screw.
Release the inner caliper half and remove it. The piston side should swing out enough to get that pad off. It's a good idea to remove it from the pivot and clean the pivot parts then regrease them.
I go at the disk with wet/dry paper to roughen it up a bit then give it a really good clean with solvent then brake cleaner.
Test the piston pad fit. Some come oversize or with thick paint and don't move freely, sand or file down to fit smoothly.
If there's a plastic donut under the pad, reuse it. Put some brake grease on that and around the edge of the pad's steel base. Not a lot!
The dead pad should have a little split pin holding it in. Not 100% required but it should be there.
Once all done and the caliper reassembled, set the limit screw. The dead pad should drag with a business card between it and the disk but not drag with that taken out.
Pump the piston back out with the MC. With dual disks finish the assembly and dead pad adjustment on both before doing the pumping!
Check the reservoir level after that.
Good idea to bleed the hydraulics if you're doing this much brake work.
They may drag a bit after this work (will?) but that should loosen up after a bit of riding.
