Topic: Gordon...some pics showing synch tubes with CR carbs..

[MRieck]

 Didn't have your email show I figured this to be the next best thing.

[scondon]

Where did you pick those up, Mike?  Looks like I'll be putting mine on soon

[MRieck]

 1/8" hose mender Sean. Caps are Suzuki pieces  http://www.fittingsandmore.com/

[RRRToolSolutions]

Mike, how are adjustments made? I don't see any external threads, ramps, or linkage adjustments to affect individual settings/openings on these CR's. How did you plumb the fittings? I guess too that a sneeze or backfire would blow those caps off. What size do you have? I went with the 29's based on Buzz's recommendation.

Thanks for the photos.

Gordon

[Gordon]

I was trying to figure out what the hell you were talking about, and then realized you weren't talking to me!

[scondon]

1/8" hose mender Sean. Caps are Suzuki pieces http://www.fittingsandmore.com/

    Thanks for makin' that easy,Mike. Hadn't noticed the texture on your valve cover before. looks pretty sweet

    BTW, Sam says that cam chain is go and will order Monday.  THANKS SAM!

[RRRToolSolutions]

Mike, I've read the instructions for tuning, jetting, ect, but I'm shocked there is no sycronization steps mentioned. I'm starting on the tear-down tonight and then it's a lot of small details over the next several weekends. The balancing, studs, chains, and Carillos should make these CR's feel necessary. Right now I'm surprised to see the venturi look so close to stock. Hope they wake it up.

Thanks again for the input.

Regards,
Gordon

[MRieck]

Mike, how are adjustments made? I don't see any external threads, ramps, or linkage adjustments to affect individual settings/openings on these CR's. How did you plumb the fittings? I guess too that a sneeze or backfire would blow those caps off. What size do you have? I went with the 29's based on Buzz's recommendation.

Thanks for the photos.

Gordon

You remove the carb tops and there is a nut and slotted screw on the linkage. You loosen the screw and the by turning the nut you raise or lower the slide. Tighten the screw to lock the position. I had to modify (thin) an 8mm offset box end wrench to fit in there properly.  I drilled holes smaller the the hose barb width and pushed them into the boot. A very small amount of black silicone was placed under the mender flange to guarantee a air tight seal. As for the caps blowing off...the set up is no different then found on modern bikes and they don't blow off under back fire. The hose barbs really grab the cap(and boot)....in fact I have to lube them with a little silicone grease to ease removal. Combined with the clips it really holds. I've used this type of set up for over 15 years with various sets of CR's with no vacuum leaks, blow offs etc. I run 31's

[MRieck]

Mike, I've read the instructions for tuning, jetting, ect, but I'm shocked there is no sycronization steps mentioned. I'm starting on the tear-down tonight and then it's a lot of small details over the next several weekends. The balancing, studs, chains, and Carillos should make these CR's feel necessary. Right now I'm surprised to see the venturi look so close to stock. Hope they wake it up.

Thanks again for the input.

Regards,
Gordon

Mikuni RS Flatslides and Keihin FCR Flatslides use the same method to synch the carbs Gordon. The difference is the 3rd carb on the Mikuni's is fixed and the other carbs are synched to that carb. You pick a carb on the Keihins and set others to that one. The big thing to remember is the nut controls up /down movement of the slide...not the screw. Mikuni shows how to synch in their RS instructions and I think the FCR instructions explain how to too.

[scondon]

1/8" hose mender Sean. Caps are Suzuki pieces http://www.fittingsandmore.com/

   Found the 1/8" menders in your link and am ordering some today.  In checking the dimensions it shows one side being just under 1" and the other at about 1/2". Did you cut yours down on the end that enters the carb rubbers or just let them protrude into the airway?

Edit:  OK, now I'm learning how to properly read fitting dimension charts. 1" overall length, under 1/2" on either side of center. Got it

[MRieck]

1/8" hose mender Sean. Caps are Suzuki pieces http://www.fittingsandmore.com/

   Found the 1/8" menders in your link and am ordering some today.  In checking the dimensions it shows one side being just under 1" and the other at about 1/2". Did you cut yours down on the end that enters the carb rubbers or just let them protrude into the airway?

Edit:  OK, now I'm learning how to properly read fitting dimension charts. 1" overall length, under 1/2" on either side of center. Got it

Sean  The part # is 32091   1/8 Hose Splicer. Same length on both sides. I think it is 1/2" each side woth overall length of 1"

[scondon]

1/8" hose mender Sean. Caps are Suzuki pieces http://www.fittingsandmore.com/

   Found the 1/8" menders in your link and am ordering some today.  In checking the dimensions it shows one side being just under 1" and the other at about 1/2". Did you cut yours down on the end that enters the carb rubbers or just let them protrude into the airway?

Edit:  OK, now I'm learning how to properly read fitting dimension charts. 1" overall length, under 1/2" on either side of center. Got it

Sean The part # is 32091 1/8 Hose Splicer. Same length on both sides. I think it is 1/2" each side woth overall length of 1"

   Thanks, Mike. That's exactly what I ordered

[heffay]

I was trying to figure out what the hell you were talking about, and then realized you weren't talking to me!

was going to say something about this... it would probably be best (especially in subject headings) if we used usernames.  many people (like me  )  usually don't pay attention to real names...  not that you were talking to anyone but gordon.   

using real names in public forums can cause a lot of confusion and can also cause unwanted problems w/ people not wanting their real name used publicly.  i doubt this is the case w/ ILbikes but, hopefully, you can understand what i'm getting at.