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I have always put the longer threads into the head part, as it is aluminum and the more threads secured means a better holding force. Others may have a different opinion.
Yes.... that would make sense. Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.
Don’t bottom them out. Back them off a bit, maybe half turn to be sure they don’t expand and put pressure on the casting.
Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.
QuoteUse a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.Blue doesn’t tolerate the heat that the exhaust will create, so in essence, it does nothing for retention. Red needs heat to remove it, so that won’t work either. Copper anti-seize should be used with the steel-alloy interface, but it’s not for retention but for corrosion retarding.Tightening the nuts into the flange in turn adds torque to the stud, so they aren’t coming out as a result of inadequate torque.
With OEM studs, there is a more rounded end, and it points outward. The threads going onto the head shouldn't bottom out, so the thicker unthreaded portion needs to jam into the casting to apply tension to lock in place.