Author Topic: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation  (Read 447 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline Ellz10

  • ZZ
  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 760
  • Knowledge is Power
Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« on: January 20, 2023, 12:35:33 PM »
Another noob question, but does the long or short threaded end go into the head for exhaust stud bolts.
Thankful for everyone on this forum. Grateful to continue to learn so much.



'77 K7 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,193043.msg2251436/topicseen.html#new

Offline Flyin900

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 985
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2023, 12:46:23 PM »
I have always put the longer threads into the head part, as it is aluminum and the more threads secured means a better holding force. Others may have a different opinion.
Common sense.....isn't so common!

1966 CL77 - 305cc - Gentleman's Scrambler
1967 CL175K0 - Scrambler #802 engine
1972 CB350F - Candy Bacchus Olive - Super Sport
1973 CB350F - Flake Matador Red - Super Sport
1975 CB400F - Parakeet Yellow - Super Sport
1976 CB400F - Varnish Blue - Super Sport
1976 GL1000 - Goldwing Standard
1978 CB550K - Super Sport
1981 GL1100 - Goldwing Standard
1982 CM450A - Hondamatic
1982 CB900C - Custom
1983 CX650E - Eurosport
1983 CB1000C - Custom X 2 Bikes now - both restored
1983 CB1100F - Super Sport - Pristine example
1984 GL1200 - Goldwing Standard

Offline BenelliSEI

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 9,875
  • 1969 cb750
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2023, 01:41:33 PM »
I have always put the longer threads into the head part, as it is aluminum and the more threads secured means a better holding force. Others may have a different opinion.

+1 to that. However, if it bottoms out early and the shoulder sticks out too far, then turn it around. Safe rule is at least 1.5 diameters engaged. Even with the short end, you’ll get more than two dia.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2023, 01:44:07 PM by BenelliSEI »

Offline Ellz10

  • ZZ
  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 760
  • Knowledge is Power
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2023, 02:31:40 PM »
I have always put the longer threads into the head part, as it is aluminum and the more threads secured means a better holding force. Others may have a different opinion.

So I tried putting the longer end in and tightened quite a bit, but didn't want to keep tightening as it got much harder to turn and that's with about 5mm of thread still showing that wasn't able to be screwed in.

So I suppose I should just turn it around and thread the smaller end in and call it good, eh?
Thankful for everyone on this forum. Grateful to continue to learn so much.



'77 K7 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,193043.msg2251436/topicseen.html#new

Offline BenelliSEI

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 9,875
  • 1969 cb750
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2023, 02:33:42 PM »
Yes.... that would make sense. Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.

Offline MauiK3

  • A K3 is saved
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 4,267
  • Old guy
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2023, 02:46:03 PM »
Don’t bottom them out. Back them off a bit, maybe half turn to be sure they don’t expand and put pressure on the casting.
1973 CB 750 K3
10/72 build Z1 Kawasaki

Offline Ellz10

  • ZZ
  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 760
  • Knowledge is Power
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2023, 04:27:04 PM »
I've always wondered if there's a set torque spec for these studs?



Yes.... that would make sense. Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.

Definitely doing this!

Don’t bottom them out. Back them off a bit, maybe half turn to be sure they don’t expand and put pressure on the casting.

Oooo that's a good idea. Thank you!
Thankful for everyone on this forum. Grateful to continue to learn so much.



'77 K7 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,193043.msg2251436/topicseen.html#new

Offline calj737

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,020
  • I refuse...
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2023, 08:45:27 PM »
Quote
Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.
Blue doesn’t tolerate the heat that the exhaust will create, so in essence, it does nothing for retention. Red needs heat to remove it, so that won’t work either. Copper anti-seize should be used with the steel-alloy interface, but it’s not for retention but for corrosion retarding.

Tightening the nuts into the flange in turn adds torque to the stud, so they aren’t coming out as a result of inadequate torque.
'74 550 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126401.0
'73 500 Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132935.0

"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline pekingduck

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 203
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2023, 09:06:30 PM »
With OEM studs, there is a more rounded end, and it points outward. The threads going onto the head shouldn't bottom out, so the thicker unthreaded portion needs to jam into the casting to apply tension to lock in place.

Offline Ellz10

  • ZZ
  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 760
  • Knowledge is Power
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2023, 09:06:42 AM »
Quote
Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.
Blue doesn’t tolerate the heat that the exhaust will create, so in essence, it does nothing for retention. Red needs heat to remove it, so that won’t work either. Copper anti-seize should be used with the steel-alloy interface, but it’s not for retention but for corrosion retarding.

Tightening the nuts into the flange in turn adds torque to the stud, so they aren’t coming out as a result of inadequate torque.

I thought about that as I was applying the blue and stopped because it obviously doesn't make sense to do it. I'll have to get some copper antisieze.

With OEM studs, there is a more rounded end, and it points outward. The threads going onto the head shouldn't bottom out, so the thicker unthreaded portion needs to jam into the casting to apply tension to lock in place.

Yep! So I looked and the rounded end is correctly sticking out. Thank you for this.
Thankful for everyone on this forum. Grateful to continue to learn so much.



'77 K7 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,193043.msg2251436/topicseen.html#new

Offline BenelliSEI

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 9,875
  • 1969 cb750
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2023, 10:08:56 AM »
Quote
Use a drop of blue loctite so they don’t come out the next time you want to remove your pipes.
Blue doesn’t tolerate the heat that the exhaust will create, so in essence, it does nothing for retention. Red needs heat to remove it, so that won’t work either. Copper anti-seize should be used with the steel-alloy interface, but it’s not for retention but for corrosion retarding.

Tightening the nuts into the flange in turn adds torque to the stud, so they aren’t coming out as a result of inadequate torque.

Totally true!

Offline MauiK3

  • A K3 is saved
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 4,267
  • Old guy
Re: Exhaust Stud Bolt Orientation
« Reply #11 on: January 21, 2023, 01:43:01 PM »
A 6mm thread does not want much torque. Maybe 70 inch pounds
1973 CB 750 K3
10/72 build Z1 Kawasaki