Author Topic: Help with Timing issue, I hope  (Read 865 times)

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Offline TimboTec

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Help with Timing issue, I hope
« on: February 09, 2023, 07:46:03 PM »
Trying to get my 76 750 back on the road after letting it sit for far too long. Runs rough at idle, backfires and pops with throttle, often sluggish response too, Then it will just bog down and die.

From what ive read on the forums, most issues seem to stem from electrical so I started with Timing and Ignition. Replaced all spark plugs, old ones were sooty and smelled of fuel. Then I moved on to the Timing plate and points. Followed along on a youtube vid on setting static timing for gapping the points and it seemed to go ok (set approx .012"). Then I moved on to the timing. Using a test/continuity light I placed the clip end on the screw for points 1-4 and the point end into the case for ground.  It lit up even when the points were open!!! It then did the same for points 2-3!!! (SEE PICS and VID below) Rotating the crankshaft all the way around caused no change to the light. There seems to be constant continuity which makes no sense. Im sure im not grounding out on anything else. What would cause this? Bad condensers? Bad coils? Some false ground somewhere?
How can the bike run at all? It does start up and run although rough.

Please help, Im dumbfounded.
Tim
« Last Edit: February 13, 2023, 02:07:09 PM by TimboTec »

Offline bryanj

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2023, 12:50:39 AM »
If you connect the light between points power lead and ground its supposed to be on with points open and ignition on, but off with points closed, sounds like you have crud on the contact surfaces built up when standing doing nothing
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline newday777

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2023, 04:04:02 AM »
Trying to get my 76 750 back on the road after letting it sit for far too long. Runs rough at idle, backfires and pops with throttle, often sluggish response too, Then it will just bog down and die.

From what ive read on the forums, most issues seem to stem from electrical so I started with Timing and Ignition. Replaced all spark plugs, old ones were sooty and smelled of fuel. Then I moved on to the Timing plate and points. Followed along on a youtube vid on setting static timing for gapping the points and it seemed to go ok (set approx .012"). Then I moved on to the timing. Using a test/continuity light I placed the clip end on the screw for points 1-4 and the point end into the case for ground.  It lit up even when the points were open!!! It then did the same for points 2-3!!! (SEE PICS and VID below) Rotating the crankshaft all the way around caused no change to the light. There seems to be constant continuity which makes no sense. Im sure im not grounding out on anything else. What would cause this? Bad condensers? Bad coils? Some false ground somewhere?
How can the bike run at all? It does start up and run although rough.

Please help, Im dumbfounded.
Tim

We can't see the picture or video you posted.
This is what happened when I clicked on them.
Stu
Honda Parts manager in the mid 1970s Nashua Honda
My current rides
1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
1976 K6 Anteres Red rebuilding project, was originally my brother's that I set up from the crate, it'll breath again soon!
Project 750s, 2 K4, 2 K6, 1 K8
2008 GL1800 my daily ride and cross country runner

Prior bikes....
1972 Suzuki GT380 I had charge of it for a year in 1973 while my friend was deployed and learned to love street riding....
New CB450 K7 after my friend returned...
New CB750 K5 Planet Blue, demise by ex cousin in law at 9,000 miles...
New CB750 K6 Anteres Red, to replace the totaled K5, I sold this K6 at 45k in 1983, I had heavily modified it, many great memories on it and have missed it greatly.....
1983 GL1100A, 1999 GL1500 SE, 1999 GL1500A

Offline newday777

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2023, 04:10:54 AM »
You say the bike has 'sat far too long' 

Did you drain the tank and carbs of all the gas before you let it set? Or did you leave the gas in as if you were going to get back to it right away?

My 1st impression is dirty carbs from gas being left in them far too long(seen this far too many times over the years)

Here is a video on setting the points and timing.

Stu
Honda Parts manager in the mid 1970s Nashua Honda
My current rides
1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
1976 K6 Anteres Red rebuilding project, was originally my brother's that I set up from the crate, it'll breath again soon!
Project 750s, 2 K4, 2 K6, 1 K8
2008 GL1800 my daily ride and cross country runner

Prior bikes....
1972 Suzuki GT380 I had charge of it for a year in 1973 while my friend was deployed and learned to love street riding....
New CB450 K7 after my friend returned...
New CB750 K5 Planet Blue, demise by ex cousin in law at 9,000 miles...
New CB750 K6 Anteres Red, to replace the totaled K5, I sold this K6 at 45k in 1983, I had heavily modified it, many great memories on it and have missed it greatly.....
1983 GL1100A, 1999 GL1500 SE, 1999 GL1500A

Offline cooldrum

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2023, 07:45:31 AM »
Timbo,  You are on your way of doing a full service. Yes, pull the float bowls and that may give you a glimpse of what's in the carbs. If your bike has been parked for "way too long"  Time to go through everything, valve adjustment, carb sync, strong battery charge, etc.  All the little things add up on making these bikes run well.  Just takes time and patience.  Many good YT vids to watch and learn to get your bike in tune.  Keep us posted.

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2023, 01:54:42 PM »
Apologies all, Ill try to re-upload the pictures so you all can see what Im talking about. The gist of it again is that with a test light im getting continuity with the points open and closed on both the 1-4 AND the 2-3 Points.

Offline bryanj

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2023, 02:07:59 PM »
How are you connecting the test light? It should be between contact spring and ground
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2023, 02:36:31 PM »
It is, it is connected to at the same spot (wiring nut for points 1-4) as shown in the video that newday777 posted. Coincidentally it is the same video I used to follow to Gap the points and set the timing marks.

I have pasted a Youtube link to a video I took. I hope this clarifies the issue. Im probably missing something pretty obvious, but Ya dont know what Ya dont know. Ya know?


Offline newday777

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2023, 02:49:49 PM »
So do you have TEC on the points and condensers? Or are they aftermarket?
Stu
Honda Parts manager in the mid 1970s Nashua Honda
My current rides
1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
1976 K6 Anteres Red rebuilding project, was originally my brother's that I set up from the crate, it'll breath again soon!
Project 750s, 2 K4, 2 K6, 1 K8
2008 GL1800 my daily ride and cross country runner

Prior bikes....
1972 Suzuki GT380 I had charge of it for a year in 1973 while my friend was deployed and learned to love street riding....
New CB450 K7 after my friend returned...
New CB750 K5 Planet Blue, demise by ex cousin in law at 9,000 miles...
New CB750 K6 Anteres Red, to replace the totaled K5, I sold this K6 at 45k in 1983, I had heavily modified it, many great memories on it and have missed it greatly.....
1983 GL1100A, 1999 GL1500 SE, 1999 GL1500A

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2023, 02:55:02 PM »
I cant recall the brand, I rebuilt the bike years ago. I believe I sourced them from 4into1.com, pretty sure they are just reproduction Points and Condensers.

Offline RAFster122s

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2023, 02:57:20 PM »
Not putting the insulating washer in the right spot on the connections can cause you to have no difference in open and closed points…

4 into 1 likes to sell the cheap Chinese crap daiichi points and condensers. The condensers are total junk out of the box. The points are not designed properly for the CB Fours and really should be avoided.
The Daiichi three propeller blade logo is usually on the points… but they should have came in a box…

4 into 1 might sell Oem Honda at higher than discount dealer prices…
(south sound Honda of Olympia WA)
« Last Edit: February 13, 2023, 03:02:21 PM by RAFster122s »
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2023, 03:01:43 PM »
Ok, I'll check out the placement of the insulating washer. But just curious, The bike ran fine before, and I haven't messed with points since it had been sitting. Would that cause the bike to start running horribly out of nowhere? It seems to me like it wouldn't even fire up at all if the points were getting constant voltage.

Would a bad condenser cause this? Or possibly a false ground somewhere that made contact somehow? Any ideas on troubleshooting?
« Last Edit: February 13, 2023, 03:03:26 PM by TimboTec »

Offline RAFster122s

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2023, 03:06:24 PM »
Ok, I'll check out the placement of the insulating washer. But just curious, The bike ran fine before, and I havent messed with points since it had been sitting. Would that cause the bike to start running horribly out of nowhere? It seems to me like it wouldn't even fire up at all if the points were getting constant voltage.

It wouldn’t fire, thought you had put new points in… often catches us on reassembly if not careful.
Disregard insulating washer comment. I didn’t read back far enough…sorry.

Are you getting voltage to the points?
Kill switches sometimes will get dirty sitting causing non operating condition. Corrosion build up in switch in the handlebar housing…

If it is running kill switch is working.

Have you tested your spark plug caps to see what they are Ohm-ing out at?
They can cause rough running
« Last Edit: February 13, 2023, 03:41:31 PM by RAFster122s »
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2023, 04:48:31 PM »
Haven’t put a voltmeter on it yet but it does fire up so the points are getting power. The question is why and why isn’t that test light turning off when the points are open.

The kill switch works fine, bike won’t start with it off, and will shut off when it is engaged.

« Last Edit: February 13, 2023, 06:49:19 PM by TimboTec »

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2023, 09:28:31 PM »
The yellow or blue wires on the point’s post get grounded to the engine case when the points are closed.  Test light across those test points should be out when points closed and light up when the points are open as the blue and yellow wires connect to the coil whose other end of coil connects to the black key switch + 12 volts.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2023, 10:02:01 PM »
OK, thats good info. I think I had my logic backwards. In my tiny brain I thought that when the points closed the circuit was complete and the spark would fire. So what I SHOULD be looking for is a continuity light when the points "break open" aka the firing position?

Am I correct?

However this still does not explain why I have circuit continuity in all positions of the points. Open/closed, doesnt matter. I can rotate the crankshaft 360º as many times as needed and no change occurs in the test light.

Offline bryanj

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #16 on: February 14, 2023, 01:11:23 AM »
I cant watch any videos on my crapfone so all i can say is the test bulb/lamp should connect one lead to ground and one to thethe spring blade or screw where wires are, if bulb stays on all the time you have assembled the points wire area wrong
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline Deltarider

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #17 on: February 14, 2023, 07:21:58 AM »
For reference
CB500K2-ED Excel black
"There is enough for everyone's need but not enough for anybody's greed."

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #18 on: February 14, 2023, 07:30:47 AM »
When points are closed, the coil circuit is complete and the coil stores energy ( this is called “dwell time”, the period of time when the points are closed).  When the points open, the stored coil energy is released to the spark gap.  Plugs fire when the points open at the F mark if crank revs are low.

I don’t know the design of your test light.  An ordinary single filament type bulb should only light when it has a voltage applied to its two terminals.  If attached across the point contacts, it should only light when the points are open and key switch on.

I made my own test light by taking an instrument lamp and soldering two wires with alligator clips to it. 

I have an old test probe with three lights in it, one lights for logic high, one lights for logic low, and one lights when logic high and low are actively switching.  I mention this as evidence that there are different designs of “test lights” out in the world.  When I was still writing documentation on the circuits I designed, included in the documentation was the test equipment make and models used to obtain measurements of circuit operation.  This was so test results could be obtained and verified by anyone reading the documentation.  Test equipment design can vary among manufacturers and calibration. 

Yes, I’ve had my ass bitten a few times.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #19 on: February 14, 2023, 09:39:19 AM »
Thanks, I think im really learning a lot. So it seems like I may have multiple issues from what you've informed me about how the points operate. My "test light" which is just your basic hardware store continuity tester, the ones with a little light bulb inbedded in the see through handle and a pointed probe on one end and a spring clip on the other.

If im seeing no change in continuity, Im thinking I either have bad points that arent allowing the coils to store energy (which I dont think is the case, due to the fact that the bike does run, although extremely rough. OR I have a bad condenser or one that isnt functioning properly 100% of the time.

Im posting a video of the points with the engine running and the test light hooked up.  It looks like there is a big difference between points 1-4 and 2-3. Im not sure exactly what it should look like but I know something is off.

Let me know what yall think


https://youtube.com/shorts/y8_JX3qRfV8?feature=share
« Last Edit: February 14, 2023, 09:41:36 AM by TimboTec »

Offline newday777

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #20 on: February 14, 2023, 09:50:47 AM »
A continuity tester is different than a voltage test light.  That is your problem if you actually are using a continuity tester as you say.
Stu
Honda Parts manager in the mid 1970s Nashua Honda
My current rides
1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
1976 K6 Anteres Red rebuilding project, was originally my brother's that I set up from the crate, it'll breath again soon!
Project 750s, 2 K4, 2 K6, 1 K8
2008 GL1800 my daily ride and cross country runner

Prior bikes....
1972 Suzuki GT380 I had charge of it for a year in 1973 while my friend was deployed and learned to love street riding....
New CB450 K7 after my friend returned...
New CB750 K5 Planet Blue, demise by ex cousin in law at 9,000 miles...
New CB750 K6 Anteres Red, to replace the totaled K5, I sold this K6 at 45k in 1983, I had heavily modified it, many great memories on it and have missed it greatly.....
1983 GL1100A, 1999 GL1500 SE, 1999 GL1500A

Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #21 on: February 14, 2023, 01:52:44 PM »
I believe you are correct. I made a little DIY "test light" with a small incandescent bulb and some wires. Seemed to show proper circuitry with the points.

However I still believe my problem is Timing related. Here is a video of the points with the engine running.

https://youtube.com/shorts/y8_JX3qRfV8?feature=share

I don't think Im supposed to see arching on points 2-3. Bad condenser? Thats what Im hoping for. whatya think?

Offline bryanj

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #22 on: February 14, 2023, 03:46:30 PM »
A small amount of tiny arcing is normalish as you are breaking a power circuit, large amounts of heavy blue sparking would suggest a bad condenser
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #23 on: February 14, 2023, 05:40:49 PM »
You say the bike has 'sat far too long' 

Did you drain the tank and carbs of all the gas before you let it set? Or did you leave the gas in as if you were going to get back to it right away?

My 1st impression is dirty carbs from gas being left in them far too long(seen this far too many times over the years)

Here is a video on setting the points and timing.


Very  typical of Common Motor BS.
The #1 PROBLEM WITH THIS VIDEO is shown at 2:09 into it!


With the 750 in particular, you must NEVER TURN THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THE NUT SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO. If you turn it CCW even a fraction of a rotation, you WILL bend the shaft that mounts the spark advancer. This WILL leave you with serious 'timing jitter', where the spark timing jumps back-and-forth, as seen under a timing strobe light.

The only cure is then to remove the points plate and spark advancer, re-straighten the shaft with a dial indicator to less than 0.002".

For those interested, here is the PROPER way to set points on the CB750:
1. Remove the sparkplugs.
2. Mount the points and wiring.
3. Using the kickstarter or via bumping with the electric starter, turn the engine 180 degrees past the 1-4 "T" mark. Set the 1-4 points to 0.014" gap here.
4. Using the kickstarter or via bumping with the electric starter, turn the engine 180 degrees past the 2-3 "T" mark. Set the 2-3 points to 0.014" gap here.
5. Using a strobe timing light, start the engine and find out where the 1-4 timing marks are located. Turning the baseplate adjusts this set of points: do that to make it fire on the "F" mark for the 1-4 points.
6. Repeat Step 5 for the 2-3 points, adjusting the smaller baseplate in its slots to reach the 2-3 "F" mark.

Now, this said...if your points plate is a genuine Honda TEC or older ND, TEC or Hitachi plate, it will go as described above.
If your points plate is a recent TEC plate, you may find that the slots in the 2 lower screw hole mounts must be widened to reach the timing marks, or the gap may be adjusted slightly, within the range of 0.012"-0.016", to reach the marks.

If you have a Daiichi points plate set, search these forums for "Daiichi" for my many, many other counsels on the issues with those plates.

If you have a CB500/550/400F/350F/250F: Honda realized this mistake of design and corrected the spark advancer mount situation in those later designs. In those bikes, you can simply remove the sparkplugs and then you can follow the Common Motor Collective video to your heart's content, but Honda never intended the SOHC4 points tobe set this way, ever. It was commonly done on the older Honda Twins, so many unknowing folks just thought the Mighty Four was the same. No, it isn't...

I'd give Common Motor Collective a piece of my mind, if I could spare it.

...end of rant...  >:(
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
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Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

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Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline Ellz10

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #24 on: February 14, 2023, 08:18:19 PM »
You say the bike has 'sat far too long' 

Did you drain the tank and carbs of all the gas before you let it set? Or did you leave the gas in as if you were going to get back to it right away?

My 1st impression is dirty carbs from gas being left in them far too long(seen this far too many times over the years)

Here is a video on setting the points and timing.


Very  typical of Common Motor BS.
The #1 PROBLEM WITH THIS VIDEO is shown at 2:09 into it!


With the 750 in particular, you must NEVER TURN THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THE NUT SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO. If you turn it CCW even a fraction of a rotation, you WILL bend the shaft that mounts the spark advancer. This WILL leave you with serious 'timing jitter', where the spark timing jumps back-and-forth, as seen under a timing strobe light.

The only cure is then to remove the points plate and spark advancer, re-straighten the shaft with a dial indicator to less than 0.002".

For those interested, here is the PROPER way to set points on the CB750:
1. Remove the sparkplugs.
2. Mount the points and wiring.
3. Using the kickstarter or via bumping with the electric starter, turn the engine 180 degrees past the 1-4 "T" mark. Set the 1-4 points to 0.014" gap here.
4. Using the kickstarter or via bumping with the electric starter, turn the engine 180 degrees past the 2-3 "T" mark. Set the 2-3 points to 0.014" gap here.
5. Using a strobe timing light, start the engine and find out where the 1-4 timing marks are located. Turning the baseplate adjusts this set of points: do that to make it fire on the "F" mark for the 1-4 points.
6. Repeat Step 5 for the 2-3 points, adjusting the smaller baseplate in its slots to reach the 2-3 "F" mark.

Now, this said...if your points plate is a genuine Honda TEC or older ND, TEC or Hitachi plate, it will go as described above.
If your points plate is a recent TEC plate, you may find that the slots in the 2 lower screw hole mounts must be widened to reach the timing marks, or the gap may be adjusted slightly, within the range of 0.012"-0.016", to reach the marks.

If you have a Daiichi points plate set, search these forums for "Daiichi" for my many, many other counsels on the issues with those plates.

If you have a CB500/550/400F/350F/250F: Honda realized this mistake of design and corrected the spark advancer mount situation in those later designs. In those bikes, you can simply remove the sparkplugs and then you can follow the Common Motor Collective video to your heart's content, but Honda never intended the SOHC4 points tobe set this way, ever. It was commonly done on the older Honda Twins, so many unknowing folks just thought the Mighty Four was the same. No, it isn't...

I'd give Common Motor Collective a piece of my mind, if I could spare it.

...end of rant...  >:(

Learned this the hard way when I rebuilt my motor. Not a good time lol
Thankful for everyone on this forum. Grateful to continue to learn so much.



'77 K7 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,193043.msg2251436/topicseen.html#new

Offline PeWe

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Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
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http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Deltarider

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #26 on: February 15, 2023, 04:25:41 AM »
I believe you are correct. I made a little DIY "test light" with a small incandescent bulb and some wires. Seemed to show proper circuitry with the points.

[...] Here is a video of the points with the engine running.

https://youtube.com/shorts/y8_JX3qRfV8?feature=share

I don't think Im supposed to see arching on points 2-3. Bad condenser? Thats what Im hoping for. whatya think?
I agree. Easy to check. Just connect the 2+3 condenser to the 1+4 breakerpoints (and vice versa) and see if that arcing follows.
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #27 on: February 15, 2023, 07:09:31 AM »

I don't think Im supposed to see arching on points 2-3. Bad condenser? Thats what Im hoping for. whatya think?

I wouldn’t expect the condensers to eliminate all the contact arcing, just most of it.

When the coil is releasing it energy to the spark plugs, it also creates some energy in the primary side of the coil which feeds back to the point contacts (200 - 400 volts). This is enough voltage to arc at the nearly closed contacts.  Good  condensers should absorb most of this voltage.  Poor ones less so.  But, if your test light isn’t going out when the contacts close, this indicates a poor contact or resistive contact path which has the effect of increasing seen arcing.

Have you tried a point file?  Sandpaper leaves grit embedded in the contact surface that can block or impede large area contact.  The reduced contact area increases resistance.  Perhaps enough to allow your test light to glow.  If you have a multimeter, you could measure the voltage across the closed points. (Key on). It should be zero.
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Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #28 on: February 15, 2023, 09:03:12 AM »
Wow, I had no idea. All the videos i’ve watched all show the timing being set this way. Does this mean that every one of them, including mine has bent parts?

Also, has anyone had a second to take a look at the short video I linked a few posts above with the engine running with the point going? Is that a normal amount of Arching? Do I also have a bad condenser?

thanks all!

Offline Deltarider

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #29 on: February 15, 2023, 09:35:57 AM »
Timbo this vid may be helpful. At the breakerpoints a tiny bit of sparking is normal, excessive sparking or arcing is not good and can indicate a bad condenser. So in this vid the left condensor (1+4) is bad, right condensor (2+3) is good. So this vid shows a situation the opposite of yours. Just swap the condensers and see if then you have the arcing at 1+4 breakerpoints. If so, that particular condenser is bad. Please report back after you have done what I advised. See to it all is connected well, that the forked connectors do not touch the plates and screws there and that the bodies of the condensers make good contact with the plates.
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Offline TimboTec

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Re: Help with Timing issue, I hope
« Reply #30 on: February 15, 2023, 09:53:07 AM »
Thanks, yes that looks like what is happening
 on my bike. I have to go out of town for a few days but i’ll swap condensers and report back when i return.

Thanks all!